i love douche bag newbs who talk schit and think they know about schit and cant back up their garbage with anything but smack talk like the db above me.

im gonna quote some stuff here hopefully you'll learn something.

"Your RP doesn't look that bad, but I still don't see it worth the premium. Again, there are oils whose average wear results are better for less money.

The Al and Pb is low, and looks good. No tin, and ring wear is nice. So, your pistons, rings, and combustion efficiency are all good. However, your Fe and Copper are higher than I would like them to be for a premium oil, which suggests spring bucket/cam lobe wear or timing chain wear for the Fe, and copper usually comes from bearings and valve guides. Seeing as your Lead is low, I'd say your valve guides are the primary source. Plus, this oil is no longer a 30 weight. RP continues its tradition of supplying a 30 weight oil that the VQ engine grinds up and shears down into a lesser grade. TBN is good, the oil will support an extended drain, and for what it costs, would be a good thing to do for anyone who insists on using the blend. It's not bad looking, but there are options for less wear with a lower price. If you want a premium boutique oil for extended drains, the Amsoil SSO 0W-30 is a good oil, otherwise do regular 3-4k mile drains with Castrol GTX 5W-30, or 6-7500 mile drains with Syntec or PP 5W-30.

Will"


this was Will, our my350z oil specialist analysis of someone's RP UOA.

The copper is higher than most other oils, either from bearing wear or valve guides. Most likely the bearings. It's not bad, just higher than average although right in line with the other RP 10W-30 samples.

The rest of the wear metals look very good. Low Pb and Chromium compared to the other RP samples of this grade, and much better than the 5W-30 averages.

High TBN for this oil, wow. For 4k miles, I'd expect it to be lower, but if you're 90% freeway driven it would make sense.

Still, for 90% freeway use, the oil has sheared to a 20 weight. What's up with RP 30 weight oils always shearing to a 20 weight? Shearing to a 20 weight and high copper seems to be the trait for RP, much like high Fe is a common trait for M1 oils. I wonder if there is something RP uses in their oil, maybe sulfur, that doesn't like yellow metals.

Thanks for sharing your UOA, I'll add it to the comparison totals for this weight.

Will

these are just a few examples. RP has never shown to be a very good oil in a VQ. Its very very average. Is it bad?, Not really but is it worth the money? Noway. I'd rather run M1 0w40, German Castrol 0w30 or Rotella Syn 5w40 for the same price or less than RP, all these oils have done very very well in UOA's with the VQ motor. US HM 350z who is a mod on this forum ran RP once in his boosted Z and it's the only oil he has ever run that burnt a significant amount in his motor. so before you go running your mouth, maybe you should do as you say and back up your talk.

 

Yup i am a newbie to this site.
i really do not see why name calling was needed but if that is required then I am fine with that.
all i was asking for and you have now given it to us was a reason or a explanation as to why you say it was garbage.

Is this a normal response from members here?
o well no harm done i guess he was just angry,maybe a bad day at work.
hope his new response has helped out better then his first.
thanks.

 

I will check out if any local garages take oil then. It is nice to be able to change your own on a special car for sure.

Thanks Ed but Im a little to far away to be takin old oil down to your shop.

 

OEM oil filter is garbage, but I always did my oil changes at the stealership until warranty expired, after that it was mostly DIY or some days where I'm lazy, I'll take it to Simone's, oh and I switched to K&N filter and stuck with motul.

 

so i can bring my own oil to the dealership and have them do the oil change for me? they only charge for labour? i thought if i go to the dealership, i must use wutever oil that they supply..i guess i was wrong?

so the OEM filter sucks big time???

 

yes, you must use and do whatever the dealership says. last time i was there, they told me my headlight fluid was low and HAD to be topped up before they could release the car. it made sense and was only $20 anyways, so i did it.

 

Yup, bring your own oil, I believe you are allowed to bring your own filter as well. I have never tried this though, I only used OEM when I went to dealership because the car was still under warranty.

$20 for labour, $9.99 for oil filter, I think $6 for used oil disposal, total $36 tax in. (just saw my invoices).

 

thanks a lot man!

 

ok guys, called my dealership todAY. they said that they don't have synthetic oil for350Z...and they don't allow customer to bring their own oil and filiter.....so anyone? tell me which nissan dealership should i go to do the oil change?

 

read this thread but I got the same deal from mine as well. You can either do it yourself or try AMS.

Side note...one Nissan dealer wouldn't change my oil because my car was lowered...oh wait, I didn't change the suspension until a half year after that encounter. Seems to me the dealer should know that.

Another couldn't handle my lip kit. Ever since I got my Volks on I don't drive within a 10km radius of any Nissan dealerships incase they sneeze and the paint flakes off my front bumper...

Contact VUK at AMS Z Store or try some of the specific dealerships mentioned here other than yours...

 

at the screen name "blown-by-twins"...

 

^^ we all wish we could be blown by twins

 

that's weird. i've taken my z to a couple of dealers around with aftermarket replacement parts (oil, lights, etc.) and they had no problems switching them out so long as i paid them for the labour involved.

either way, changing oil can be done by any capable shop, so i don't see why you need to go to a dealer to do it. we have a billion threads promoting local shops, so you should have no trouble finding their info in ec.

 

Warranty issues is why I went to dealership for services. As soon as my warranty expired, I started DIY. Or take to shop if it's in winter, too cold.

But I never had any issues with them using Synthetic oil, I even gave them K&N oil filter and they did the job, for $30something dollar.

 

makes sense. At least you had a good experience...

 

If you do it yourself, you'll spend 'bout half of what the stealership charges you. BTW, per research done by an automotive engineer, THE best oil filter on the market is Pureone (Purolator). He tore it apart & found out that the filter element in it is of the best quality available. Period.

 

well as gain fresh air and exercise...but no one here wants that...

 

holy stealership ripoff!

 

This is some interesting reading.
I have been using both OEM and AmsOil filters but now I think I will do the switch to M1.
Did not realize that the OEM filters are so cheap, and the dealers are pushing it like it is the best filters ever made
No more warranty so now I can do whatever I want.

 

If you search the OC thread, you will see just how this was proven..

Also, Xuperxero ran RP and he would loose oil like crazy... *04.5 Z with DE motor*

I would recommend German Castrol, as NEXX mentioned -it has been proven.
Trust me.. I have already gone through one engine replacement with my old Z. I know what oils work..