Do yourself a favor and switch to Mobil 1
Originally posted by damoniusmonk
I had mine changed at Jiffy Lube. Do you think they put on the right filter for the Z?
I had mine changed at Jiffy Lube. Do you think they put on the right filter for the Z?
if Nissan says thats a suitable oil filter, it's fine with me. Is it a technological masterpiece of engineering? No, certainly not. But if Nissan is willing to trust that filter as meeting OEM specs, then it's fine by me
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From: so cali 909-951-626
Mobil one is good, but Motul is nicer
That's what I'm going with from now on, Motul's full synthetic oil.
We're now a direct dealer for motul, and will have their product line on our site very soon.
That's what I'm going with from now on, Motul's full synthetic oil. We're now a direct dealer for motul, and will have their product line on our site very soon.
This is why the VQ35 Maxima guys who use OEM filter use the Nissan 15208-9E000 instead of the Nissan 15208-65F00. Check out the thread below which has a cutaway of both.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=360757
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=360757
Originally posted by Torkaholic
I've heard a few folks say things like this about the filter that Nissan/Infiniti are currently recommending for the VQ35. But I've also heard some concerns expressed. I just had to know more. . .
Well, I just finished dissecting a 65F00 Nissan OEM filter, and was shocked, and disappointed to see before my eyes that this filter is little better than a Fram with white paint on it. I say "little better" since at least the Nissan filter has an all-metal bypass, whereas the Fram has plastic. Well, see for yourself, here it is in all its cardboard endcap splendor. I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.
Here's the can of the just-cut filter:
Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:
Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:
And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:
You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.
Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)
I think those Nissan guys you were talking to need to go back to school. . .
I've heard a few folks say things like this about the filter that Nissan/Infiniti are currently recommending for the VQ35. But I've also heard some concerns expressed. I just had to know more. . .
Well, I just finished dissecting a 65F00 Nissan OEM filter, and was shocked, and disappointed to see before my eyes that this filter is little better than a Fram with white paint on it. I say "little better" since at least the Nissan filter has an all-metal bypass, whereas the Fram has plastic. Well, see for yourself, here it is in all its cardboard endcap splendor. I'll be sticking with the aftermarket filters for my VQ.
Here's the can of the just-cut filter:
Here's the entire set of guts laid out to see:
Here's the infamous Fram style cardboard endcap:
And why might this be a problem? I inflicted the damage in this picture with two bare fingers and only moderate pressure:
You won't be doing that to the metal end caps in a Mobil-1, K&N, Amsoil, or Hastings filter.
Note also the cheap nitrile rubber (black) ADBV. A top-notch filter will have one made of silicone (typically orange colored)
I think those Nissan guys you were talking to need to go back to school. . .
I've just switched from Mobile 1 to Motul 300v 5w-30 and it's a lot better. The idle is super smooth and the engine is very quiet. It also revs out a lot easier and fuel economy has improved, but that could be because of the bigger and more free flowing oil filter I'm using.
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
if Nissan says thats a suitable oil filter, it's fine with me. Is it a technological masterpiece of engineering? No, certainly not. But if Nissan is willing to trust that filter as meeting OEM specs, then it's fine by me
if Nissan says thats a suitable oil filter, it's fine with me. Is it a technological masterpiece of engineering? No, certainly not. But if Nissan is willing to trust that filter as meeting OEM specs, then it's fine by me
Which post are you refering to and which oil filter do you use?
Also, how do you know which oil filter Nissan approves? Just by the number recommended?
Thanks.
Originally posted by Tony@Performance
Mobil one is good, but Motul is nicer
That's what I'm going with from now on, Motul's full synthetic oil.
We're now a direct dealer for motul, and will have their product line on our site very soon.
Mobil one is good, but Motul is nicer
That's what I'm going with from now on, Motul's full synthetic oil. We're now a direct dealer for motul, and will have their product line on our site very soon.
Also, never heard of Motul engine oil, just brake fluid. Any info on how it compares to Mobil 1 and if it has been used in the motor sport world as much as Mobil 1?
Thanks.
I've used Motul in my bike for several years. Never thought of putting it in a car, due to the cost, at least what the Yamaha dealer charges for it. Z gets Syntec for now. I may try a bigger filter next change.
R1Rider, you should remember that the Motul bike and car oils are different. Also yes Motul has and been used in Motorsport, you can actually buy their racing oils.
http://www.motul.com.au/motul_news/2004/october01a.htm
http://www.motul.com.au/motul_news/2004/march01.htm
http://www.motul.com.au/motul_news/2004/october01a.htm
http://www.motul.com.au/motul_news/2004/march01.htm
Last edited by nuff; Jan 8, 2005 at 11:30 PM.
Motul (forgot which specific formulation) is suppose to be largely Group V ester-based (like Redline). Typically costs $8/qt
Mobil 1, which is mostly Group IV PAO based (but blended with some Group V ester).
Castrol Syntec (US Made) are Group III Hydrocrack oil. Not true synthetic, but a highly refined dino juice. The European made Syntec are actually true synthetics.
Mobil 1, which is mostly Group IV PAO based (but blended with some Group V ester).
Castrol Syntec (US Made) are Group III Hydrocrack oil. Not true synthetic, but a highly refined dino juice. The European made Syntec are actually true synthetics.
n8vz, as far as I know the 300V (that's the racing oils) line of Motul oils is 100% Ester based. I think Redline oils are 40% (or was it 60%) ester based. Also with the revmaped line of oils the 8100 ESTER E-TECH oils are 100% ester based as well, before they were ester blends.
Originally posted by damoniusmonk
This doesn't make me feel very good. What should I check, other than if there's oil pressure?
This doesn't make me feel very good. What should I check, other than if there's oil pressure?



