12.8sec 1/4 mile
01-30-2005, 10:45 PM
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01-31-2005, 08:55 PM
#27
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imo, the most cost-efficient way is first a 3.9 final drive, and then camshafts. then some forged wheels, sticky tires, and a clutch type lsd to replace the viscous. i would suggest staying away from 19's, especially putting on giant 285 or 295 width tires on 10 or 10.5" rear wheels like a lot of g35 drivers do.
my next suggested step is weight loss. the last time i went to the truck scale, on empty (maybe 1-2 gallons fuel), with my sub box removed, my g35 sedan weighed 3200 pounds (without me in it). keep in mind the rear of my car is stripped, rear seats, door panels, entire trunk. it really doesn't look bad, i left the carpeting in, which is minimal weight.
the stock g35 seats weigh 90 pounds. i weighed mine on my bathroom scale. keep in mind it is the sedan seat, 4-way power. the more adjustable seats definitely weigh more. my seat was not heated either. nevertheless, the airbag and power mechanisms and leather add up to a LOT of weight. the coupe seats surely weigh more then the sedan seats. they are larger, and have larger bolsters. my guess is 100 pounds each. sparcos with brackets weigh about 20-25 pounds.
a lightweight flywheel would be next.
a nice seat of headers, x-pipes, and exhaust, will add a little power, but mainly will also save a lot of weight. changing the entire exhaust system/cats can save you 30-40 or more pounds.
that should get you into the low 13's with good driving.
getting more power down N/A after cams and good breathing mods gets pretty expensive. at that point, the only thing that will bring you more power is more compression, or more displacement, or more timing (if you want to run race fuel). more compression means some 11.0:1 or higher pistons, or stroker kit for more displacement.
my suggestion is to do a final drive/flywheel/clutch, cams, lighten the car, etc etc... and be happy with low 13's. with the 3.9 fd, the car will be very fast and fun to drive. losing that 0.5 seconds to move from say 13.3 to 12.8 seconds in the 1/4 will cost you 3 times as much as the parts that will get you into the 13's. i suggest moving on to suspension and brakes after. power isn't anything without control.
-phil
my next suggested step is weight loss. the last time i went to the truck scale, on empty (maybe 1-2 gallons fuel), with my sub box removed, my g35 sedan weighed 3200 pounds (without me in it). keep in mind the rear of my car is stripped, rear seats, door panels, entire trunk. it really doesn't look bad, i left the carpeting in, which is minimal weight.
the stock g35 seats weigh 90 pounds. i weighed mine on my bathroom scale. keep in mind it is the sedan seat, 4-way power. the more adjustable seats definitely weigh more. my seat was not heated either. nevertheless, the airbag and power mechanisms and leather add up to a LOT of weight. the coupe seats surely weigh more then the sedan seats. they are larger, and have larger bolsters. my guess is 100 pounds each. sparcos with brackets weigh about 20-25 pounds.
a lightweight flywheel would be next.
a nice seat of headers, x-pipes, and exhaust, will add a little power, but mainly will also save a lot of weight. changing the entire exhaust system/cats can save you 30-40 or more pounds.
that should get you into the low 13's with good driving.
getting more power down N/A after cams and good breathing mods gets pretty expensive. at that point, the only thing that will bring you more power is more compression, or more displacement, or more timing (if you want to run race fuel). more compression means some 11.0:1 or higher pistons, or stroker kit for more displacement.
my suggestion is to do a final drive/flywheel/clutch, cams, lighten the car, etc etc... and be happy with low 13's. with the 3.9 fd, the car will be very fast and fun to drive. losing that 0.5 seconds to move from say 13.3 to 12.8 seconds in the 1/4 will cost you 3 times as much as the parts that will get you into the 13's. i suggest moving on to suspension and brakes after. power isn't anything without control.
-phil
02-02-2005, 10:10 AM
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get the supercharger, put on a 75 shot of nitrous and you're in the 12's easy cost in mods about $5000 (depending on the SC)...
any of these mods in the earlier posts will let you loose warranty anyway, so don't worry about that.
Oh yes, get DR's
any of these mods in the earlier posts will let you loose warranty anyway, so don't worry about that.
Oh yes, get DR's
02-02-2005, 06:03 PM
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I used to just say that all turbo kits out for the VQ are relatively the same, but the APS really, I mean really stands out. That really is the kit of kits, in effeciency, power, reliability.... top of the line. I'm saving up for it.
02-03-2005, 04:12 PM
#32
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Originally posted by JonsilvZ
If your just thinking about running in the 12s. Get a used Z06 that runs low 12s from the factory. Show a 02 Z06 for 35gs
If your just thinking about running in the 12s. Get a used Z06 that runs low 12s from the factory. Show a 02 Z06 for 35gs
There is always something faster and for similar or cheaper price for the performance you want, it is up to that person to decide if he loves a certain car enough to mod it to do what he wants it to do.
02-03-2005, 05:09 PM
#33
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My point is if your going to spend like 10gs in mods.Why not just get a used car with warranty. Plus its an upgrade from a G35. I have the $ to get a FI for my Z. But getting the tuning right is a hassle.
02-03-2005, 05:39 PM
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i wouldnt drive a Zo6 as a daily driver.. my dad has the Dodge viper and i could just take that out or the m3 and drive it everyday because he doesnt really drive them.. he drives his escalade, but i want to buy a car for myself.. with my own money, and my friend is giving me an increbile deal 10k for a 2003 g35c white with black interior fully loaded 6mt with 20k miles.. so it wouldnt be cheaper then the zo6, now of course i would still take out his cars.. but i want somthing thats mine, that he cant take away.. get my drift, plus i wana earn responsibility, i could go shed out the cash for a 2005 M3 E46, but its not worth it cuz im getting such a good deal on the g35
02-20-2005, 02:26 PM
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Holy **** man I cant belive it this kid is talking about being accountable for ones actions... wow hey man the best way to hit 12's FI is a nitrous kit plane and simple. It can be a btich to wire and you have to have a bottle but for getting to the 12's there is no faster or cheaper way period.
now if you wanna make the car NA and hit 12's you need
11.5 CR pistons
lightweigh rods
Heads done completely
cams
tilton
pullies
headers test exaust
intake work
and some DR's
its about 10k worth of stuff you can go FI for cheaper but this will always run that fast and not too many people are going to be concerned with an NA g35 so you will get some races against bolton mustangs that think they are fast.
the AEBS stroker with the same setup will net high 11's if you drop some weight from the car ..... car with you in it and 1/4 tank 3250
edit: add engine management to the list above.
edit #2: I hit a 13.4 @ 102.6 with my setup I have too look and see what my 60 ft was.
now if you wanna make the car NA and hit 12's you need
11.5 CR pistons
lightweigh rods
Heads done completely
cams
tilton
pullies
headers test exaust
intake work
and some DR's
its about 10k worth of stuff you can go FI for cheaper but this will always run that fast and not too many people are going to be concerned with an NA g35 so you will get some races against bolton mustangs that think they are fast.
the AEBS stroker with the same setup will net high 11's if you drop some weight from the car ..... car with you in it and 1/4 tank 3250
edit: add engine management to the list above.
edit #2: I hit a 13.4 @ 102.6 with my setup I have too look and see what my 60 ft was.
Last edited by 350Z-VDC=Bandit; 02-20-2005 at 02:30 PM.
02-21-2005, 06:03 PM
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Re: slip
Originally posted by sfarrah
it was a 1.6974 on mt et streets. i have video of a few runs but i haven't transferred any of it to my pc yet. here's the slip
it was a 1.6974 on mt et streets. i have video of a few runs but i haven't transferred any of it to my pc yet. here's the slip
02-22-2005, 09:29 PM
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bascelik, nice back to the future drop off by the way with the powwa comment..
Anyway INS u obviously have some money behind you, IMO and its only an opinion, get the APS kit, its a little more money but its def worth it, that stillen charger is nice but u also need a new hood and u loose the strut bar over the engine for fitment issues of the s/c, if u really want a S/C over a turbo try the HKS or vortech kits. They put out a lot of power, better looking, and you'll keep your suspension tight because of the strut.
With the APS kit or even the greddy tt it is possible to hit high twelves with minimal work, one of the members i think it was gq hit mid 12's with his greddy tt and a few other mods. It is very possible to do it, and if you get it installed properly and you dont go boost crazy, you really wont have to much to worry about. That stillen warranty is for the super charger only, not for your engine, if you dont believe me ask the dealer, so if it blows your engine you are still out 8k.
And btw that g35 with all those mods is that was listed before is also an automatic, so if u have manual tranny in the g35 you are picking up and your a somewhat decent driver, you should be able to run better times.
Also i would drive a Z06 as a daily driver, think about this bud, you're gonna put roughly 350hp to your rear wheels, the Z06 is 405 to the crank i think maybe to the rear, either way the G and the Z and the Z06 are all rear wheel drive, u live in New York, i live in CT and go to college in RI, when it snows, gets icy, or rains hard, the cars handle like crap, any rear wheel drive vehicle handles like crap in bad conditions. If u put 350rwhp into your G35 it wouldnt be any different then driving the vette in the winter time.
How I'd do it
APS TT w/inti
Stillen Headers, Sways
Crawford Plenum
Dual Exhaust
Stillen/JWT Fly Wheel
Upgraded Clutch (if u have the extra money)
B&M Short Shifter (to help with the quickness on the 1/4 mi)
Tein Flex Suspension (nice to have the extra handeling)
With this you have successfully exceeded the cost of what you are paying for the car, but figure u saved about 20k from the cost of the car if it were new, so roughly 14k in mods plus 2-4k for tuning, you will have still spent less on the car, and made it amazing, and youre mom's m3 wouldnt stand a chance at it. That would be the way i go, and is the way i plan on going, but we all dont have endless bank accounts so its gonna take me a while, unless anyone wants to hook a brother up.
Anyway INS u obviously have some money behind you, IMO and its only an opinion, get the APS kit, its a little more money but its def worth it, that stillen charger is nice but u also need a new hood and u loose the strut bar over the engine for fitment issues of the s/c, if u really want a S/C over a turbo try the HKS or vortech kits. They put out a lot of power, better looking, and you'll keep your suspension tight because of the strut.
With the APS kit or even the greddy tt it is possible to hit high twelves with minimal work, one of the members i think it was gq hit mid 12's with his greddy tt and a few other mods. It is very possible to do it, and if you get it installed properly and you dont go boost crazy, you really wont have to much to worry about. That stillen warranty is for the super charger only, not for your engine, if you dont believe me ask the dealer, so if it blows your engine you are still out 8k.
And btw that g35 with all those mods is that was listed before is also an automatic, so if u have manual tranny in the g35 you are picking up and your a somewhat decent driver, you should be able to run better times.
Also i would drive a Z06 as a daily driver, think about this bud, you're gonna put roughly 350hp to your rear wheels, the Z06 is 405 to the crank i think maybe to the rear, either way the G and the Z and the Z06 are all rear wheel drive, u live in New York, i live in CT and go to college in RI, when it snows, gets icy, or rains hard, the cars handle like crap, any rear wheel drive vehicle handles like crap in bad conditions. If u put 350rwhp into your G35 it wouldnt be any different then driving the vette in the winter time.
How I'd do it
APS TT w/inti
Stillen Headers, Sways
Crawford Plenum
Dual Exhaust
Stillen/JWT Fly Wheel
Upgraded Clutch (if u have the extra money)
B&M Short Shifter (to help with the quickness on the 1/4 mi)
Tein Flex Suspension (nice to have the extra handeling)
With this you have successfully exceeded the cost of what you are paying for the car, but figure u saved about 20k from the cost of the car if it were new, so roughly 14k in mods plus 2-4k for tuning, you will have still spent less on the car, and made it amazing, and youre mom's m3 wouldnt stand a chance at it. That would be the way i go, and is the way i plan on going, but we all dont have endless bank accounts so its gonna take me a while, unless anyone wants to hook a brother up.
Last edited by Sean00500; 02-22-2005 at 09:46 PM.