ins

hey.. im getting a G35c soon 2003 6mt.. useing a friends buyback on a lease.. incredible deal so i have to do it!!

now onto modding the car..

what do i have to do to the G35c for it to run a 12.8 sec quatermile.. hopefully with a Stillen stage2 because of the warrenty included

is there anyway to do this N/A

BENJ-AMG

N/A 12.8 1/4= 4.3 stroker, Crawford headers, plenum, TS reflash, Tilton flywheel, clutch, UR pulley set, upgraded fuel pump, high flow cats, true dual exhaust, gutted interior, CF doors, CF trunk, CF hood, light-weight wheels and a strong back wind. Then you MAY hit 12's.

ins

Scratch the N/A part lolol.. moving on too force induction.. anyway to do this with a Stillen Stage 2?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

you could go to the track with a friend, with a faster car, and maybe borrow his

done12many2

iTrader: (33)

Those items would definitely put you in the 12's but you do not need all of that to get there.

Sfarrah has already hit 12.9 with the use of ET streets and a 1.6XX 60' time. He had the following mods on when he did it:

SPL Intake Kit
JWT Clutch and Flywheel
Crawford Plenum, Headers and Strut Bar
Nismo S Tune susp
Cusco Sways
TopSpeed test pipes
5Zigen ProRacer A-Spec exhaust

I myself have hit 13.5 on a street tires (no ETs or DRs) using the factory track wheels. I have the following mods:

JWT Clutch & Flywheel
UR Pulley Set (3 piece/Silver)
Crawford Plenum
Injen Super SES Stainless Straight Tip Exhaust (2nd Generation)
Injen Cold Air Intake
Gutted Cats
Grounding Kit
Bypassed Power Steering
A'PEXi S-AFC II

I feel that the following mods will get me to a very low 13 on street tires and definitely 12's with ETs or other type of DRs:

Crawford Headers
Cams
Test pipes

Armitage

iTrader: (15)

^^^ If your staying N/A, might I recommend the 3.9 final gear ratio. That should definitely help you get under 13.

ChromiumBlue

whats an spl intake?

ins

please remmber that the car im takling about is a G35 coupe and is about 200lbs heavier then the 350z =/ still possible?

drift350

yep. strip 200lbs of sound deadener and useless sh*t off the car. carpets, leather, foam, padding... they dont make you fast, and only some of them will help you float should you take the ride for a swim.


open every panel, grab anything that is not connected by a wire or simply looks useless, and pull. dont bother replacing panels.


toss the stereo... you wont find any 13 second songs that are worthwhile. toss the gauges too... later suggested mods may alter readings, making you worry needlessly. besides, all you need to know is your trap speed and time... and the track gives it to you at the end of the race. think about using freebies like that instead of being greedy and slow.


dump the passenger seats. spectators can sit in the stands to watch you run your "12's".


toss the rear window glass. if you're going forward fast enough, nothing is going to fly into the back of the car.


replace your sunroof glass with a carbon fiber plate. shoot, leave it open and tell them it's an NHRA-legal escape hatch.


get the HKS Ti exhaust... should shave a good 40lbs there. titanize everything else while you're under there.


get some lightweight rims, with the smallest diameter possible. match it up with the lightest slicks you can get. shifter cart wheels would be optimal, but i dont think they'll fit around the brakes.


3.91 Nismo rearend? fuggit... go lookin for an 8" Ford rearend, make the swap happen, and drop a 4.10 in that sucker. you'll hit the traps at well over 110mph, but you'll be doing 5000rpm in 6th.


toss that fuel tank and drop in a 1 gallon fuel cell. it's all you need to get down the track. then again, it's a japanese car. you can get away with a half gallon cell and save yourself another couple of lbs.


nitrous nitrous nitrous. get it and grin, use it sparingly to keep the motor in one piece. use it often if you need a rebuild.


rear brakes? why carry 50+lbs of crap when they only do 20% max of the stopping? dump 'em. if the wheels dont fit, think aluminum spacers...


think about anorexia... 100lbs = .10 in a quarter. you could be a tenth faster if you lost 100lbs. it could afford you to keep 100lbs of creature comforts in your ride. if binging and purging aint your thing, go Atkins. fat weighs less than muscle... replace 100% of your body weight with fat and you'll only weigh half of what you are now. besides, why do you think jockeys are so small? makes sense? of course! start chopping the driver before chopping the steed.


toss the A/C. when you use it, it merely saps your power. when you dont use it, it's still another belt you have to replace. back in my day, the only air conditioner us average people could afford was the "255 model"... 2 windows down at 55mph. dont forget to toss the heat exchanger, too.


toss the power steering and alternator while you're at it. you're going straight and you're only gonna be running for 13 seconds MAX. dont worry, the battery can handle a 13 second run between charges.


speaking of battery, toss it. get a motorcycle battery and save yourself another 20+lbs. if it doesnt have enough cranking amps, ask for a push start. it may not be NHRA legal, but you're not in the NHRA anyways.


remove the bumpers. if you rearend someone on a drag strip, one of you shouldnt have been there...


this should give you a good start, and if you find anything else that's questionably useless in your venture, feel free to ask before stripping!

Brandon@Forged

How to make a powerful N/A 350Z…
11.5:1 compression ratio
Full intake manifold replacement
AEBS or JUN Stroker Kit
Test/Race Pipes
Nexus Headers
Grounding Kit
Port and Polish heads
Ferrea Valvetrain
Clutch and Flywheel
3.9 Gears
Stillen Exhaust
ECU Tuning – HKS F-Con V-Pro
Driveshaft Shop level 2 rear half axle
Tomei 268 Camshafts
Blitz Radiator
APS High Volume Oil Pan
Larger throttle body
Custom cold-air intake
Custom titanium underdrive pulley set and pulley belt
F-A-L fan
Short shifter
NGK Iridium one-step colder range spark plugs
RC 550CC injectors
AAM fuel system
Samco cooling hose kit
Stillen oil cooler kit
Stillen power steering cool
Carbon fiber hatch
Carbon fiber hood
Carbon fiber doors
Carbon fiber fenders (rear and front)
Carbon fiber rear bumper and front bumper
Lexan windows
ARP head and main studs
Optima battery

I did this about a week ago when I got bored.

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

na is great if you have the funds....lots of funds

ins

why do you have to be wiseguys.. ok so i cant do it N/A cheap.. although the crawford 350z is pushing 280somthing rwhp.. yea beats the M3.. should be getting aroudn 13flat.. maybe less and hes upping it to 300rwhp.. N/A.... but lets say i dont do that.. lets say i use a stillen stage 2 supercharger.. exaust,ecu,headers, CAI, and a grounding kit, and lets say a couple of other little mods, MAYBE headers.. so ill be pushing ( on the low side ) 345rwhp.. now am i going to run a 12.8 second 1/4 mile?

PLEASE REMEMBER ITS A G35 coupe and weighs 3400lbs

anyone have an intelligent answer for me? please??

Brandon@Forged

Why are you set on exactly 12.8? Yeah, I think you'll be able to run mid - high 12's with 345rwhp.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

but an M3 is not all that fast either....actually they are very mediocre in terms of out of the box performance (great car mind you, and quick, but certainly not fast)

can you do it with 345 rwhp....you'll be close. I suspect the driver will have alot to do with your ET

ins

i used the m3 as a refrence because my mom has one as a summer car and ive run 13.2-13.4 consistantly, one time i ran 12.9 7 so i want my g35c to be based around that preformance.. maybe a little bit quicker.. 12.8seconds consistantly.. but anything quicker is not a daily driver... aka my dads viper he never drives xpt summer days SOMTIMES.. that thing is a monster....

so with a Stillen stage 2, exuast, ecu, grounding kit, headers i should be able to do it? maybe cams? what type of parts should i use? price? labor cost?

any good shops you know of in New York Long island

FairladyZ

You just lost a lot of people.

bascelik

...and here I am, thinking my car is ok now, but I want more powwa ...

With Stillen, cats & headers will lower your boost, so you'll probably actually lose power. Keep stock cats and headers, therefore. A CAI will make car very loud, so keep stock intake, or any solution that keep an enclosed intake box (K&N drop-in filter, Stillen intake, etc.).

Cams, donnow...

ECU, you won't need more RPM, roots blowers not likey high-rpm... as far as other ECU changes, consider that Stillen's tuning controller is 'black box' (cannot be modified).

So, you'll get 30-33% increase in hp, and 22-25% increase in torque, approx.

Get wheels (F245s/R295s) and this kit and you'll be in low-13s, but not 12s, IMHO. Up the boost 1-2psi and you'll get to your target, but lose warranty. Vortech may be a cheaper alternative.

BTW, if you got black Z (or, if you're fine with black hood on your Z), and you're getting this kit, get carbon fiber hood -- price of fiberglass hood + painting is more than price of CF hood.

ins

thats why i would do Stillen exaust/headers because they are tuned for the supercharger.. any other opinions?? maybe a NISMO exuast.. i like loud! and my car wont be a Z!!! its a G35coupe!!!

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

they are not tuned for the SC at all

maybe you should get the car first before you start this spending spree....you are looking at around 50% of the cars value in mods by the nature of your list......

ins

yea but your forgetting.. i am getting an incredible deal.. a little less then 10k for a 2003 G35c 6mt fully loaded.. my friend thought he was going to buy the car so he payed big payments and stuff.. now he wants sotmhing bigger like an escalade.. so i have lots of money to play with