From my previous car 'LS1', it would be good for a .1 or .2 in the 1/4 mile. It is like 10rwhp. It not the type of mod that shows on the dyno.

I personally would not do it, its not worth it to me. We called it the short belt mod, which people would use at the drag strip. It was really easy to switch back and forth so a lot of guys did it. Not sure how easy or hard it would be on our cars?

 

good to know! I may try it out this summer when I've got some spare time and see if it is manageable.

 

I gained about the same on my Z. I did dyno it and it showed 8 rwhp gain.

 

wow nice! There you go proven hp!

 

When I pulled my power steering, I did it at the same time as my UR Pulleys so I could not tell you exactly how much it did for me. What I did notice was that the gain seemed to be more than what I had read that I should have gained with the UR Pulleys alone. From what I read, UR Pulleys are slightly noticeable but nothing substantial. When I did the UR Pulleys and the power steering bypass at the same time, I definitely notice the improvement. I just don't know if the pulley or power steering removal contributed more to that.

It is extremely simple to take the belt on and off. You can do it in your driveway with a simple floor jack. Of course you will need a longer belt for power steering use and a shorter one for the bypass. I could switch the belts out in minutes, but I don't have any desire to do so.

The only thing that I recommend is the removal and shaving of the bolt head on the bolt located between the power steering pulley and water pump pulley. You can see that bolt cleary on my pictures in the first page. You don't have to do this to get it to work, but the belt spins extremely close to that bolt when the power steering is bypassed and a little play would result in the belt scraping that bolt.

 

Anyone know the part # for the shorter belt?

 

I can get you the part # and size, but keep in mind that I am using the UR Pulley set so my size will be different than the size needed for the OEM crank pulley.

 

thanks, I hadn't thought about it....if anyone knows what to do with the stock setup, let me know. I am interested to know how this affects sterring feedback, especially on the road course...

 

I wonder if this will throw off VDC if you are running it with it on... eh eh

 

The only car I've ever driven without power steering was a POS Lada in Syria. I almost sprained my wrist trying to drive that thing. It was a decent forearm workout though!

 

It is not so bad, once you are used to it.

 

I second that. Iwould also like to bypass it, and the air conditioning. This will be a pain trying to figure out which belt to get if using the stock crank pulley?

 

Here are some instructions I came across on how to completely disable VDC. These are unverified, so proceed at your own risk =)

-----------------------------------------------------
You will have the VDC / SLIP lights on at all times when this is done.
You will have full ABS brake function.
You will NOT have any traction control or VDC function.

Slide forward both passenger and drivers side seats. There is one philips
head screw on each side of the center console that has the cup holder in it.
Remove those screws.

Slide seats back. Lift up shift boot plastic housing (not the metal ring)
but the complete plastic housing that holds the AC controls. Detach the
harness for the AC Controls and set aside.

There are Philips screws on the side of the center console to remove (One on
each side) and 2 Philips screws behind where the AC controls where that need
to be removed. Lift up the center console.

There is a sensor box behind the shifter (about under where the coin tray is).
Pull out the harness.

Start up to see if the lights are on just to make sure you pulled the correct one
but there really isnt anything else there.

Put back together.
-----------------------------------------------------

 

You sure of that??
I though VDC controls ABS as well.

 

VDC also will effect the Throttle when it KICKS IN.

VDC can not effect the Throttle or ABS or any form of braking if it never kicks in.

 

my VDC is disabled (practically have to with the nismo LSD)

I haven't had to brake hard enough yet to have ABS kick in to test if it truely is disabled or not.

Can anyone verify if ABS still works with VDC disconnected?

I'll try to go try it sometime. Don't really wanna bald spot my tires though if it doesn't work...

 

Jason,

I'm still curious as to what the VDC continues to do if you just push the button to disable it. Is it that the input and sensory systems are still tapping power, or will it actually intevene and make a physical change somehow? (assuming a G35 coupe sport or Z)

 

I do not know all th especifics of the system... But it seems that if when the VDC button is "Disabled" if you push the car to its limits ie on the Dyno (rear wheels spinning while fron twheels are still" the car does some weird things... And some times if you are in a burn out / donut / drift.. the throttle will cut out and you will gain traction again...

know what i mean?

 

Well, since I just recently got past the break-in period, then it was pretty much constant rain for a few weeks, I haven't really had a chance to burn some rubber. I think that's about to change real soon though =)

What you are saying sounds kinda similar to Competition mode on C5's, where it will turn off traction control while leaving active handling engaged. Interesting...

 

I had to do a panic stop from about 35/40 a while back in the rain and had VDC disabled at the time. Car pulled in front of me...and just stopped. I was, of course, anticipating that the driver would keep going but he didn't. I *stood* on the brake pedal and could feel the ABS kick in.