jng1226

I thought there was Skyline GT-S that was rear drive? It didn't have as much power as the GT-R, but tuning could change that. All this talk about RB26DETT is 350s - for the money to do that, I would rather just have a R34 Skyline V-Spec II with a simple exhaust and intake!

Mr B

iTrader: (2)

Yep. I said the GTR was always awd. The GT-S has the RB25DET motor which is still a good motor and seems pretty popular to put into Silvia's these days.

newtkindred

Anyone who knows anything about the SR20DET will understand why that engine is sitting in that engine bay and not the VQ. I had one myself that I was going to drop into a "71" Z. If it was legal here I would consider that swap in the FM platform.

Lateapex

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, it's cute motor -- killer 4-bangers have a lot to recommend them. I understand why it's there, I just don't find the reason compelling.

runamok

OK. To summarize.

Some weights of things.

2 stock fabric seat: 37 lbs. x 2 = 74 lbs.
Spare, jack and tools: 40 lbs.
Rear Wiper and motor: 5 lbs.
Stock Battery: 36 lbs.
Full tank of gas: 6.5 lbs. x 17 gallons = 110.5 lbs.
Steel plate for subwoofer: 5 lbs. (guesstimate)
Sound dampening "pads" in that space behind the seats: 5 lbs.
Rear Mat: 7 lbs.

So, imagine going to the track.

I have an odyssey PC 680 battery I bought off ebay for $75 shipped. It weighs 15 lbs.

So, yank the passenger. seat, jack and tools. Have 2 gallons of gas.

Loss of weight:
stock weight - 37 - 40 - 5 - 36 + 15 - 97.5(savings from losing 15 gallons o' gas) - 5 - 5 - 7 = 217.5 for a total investment of $75.00.

I also have an underdrive pulley, kinetix plenum (TBI) and high flow cats (TBI). But these are larger $ investments.

So if I race someone who doesn't care about weight, 217.5 lbs. is significant. Good for more than .2 seconds in the quarter.

At one time I yanked all the plastic from the seats back for kicks. I will have to look for my notes.

my ghetto fab battery install:

BlackZ33

Nice post about weight saving!

How hard is it to remove the passenger seat ?


How do you keep your battry from moving around when tracking the car ?

runamok

Takes 5 to 10 minutes to remove 4 bolts and 1 connector which senses if there is a passenger in the seat. Or at least I assume. Just fold the seat forward (which make it smaller) and take your time taking it out so you don't scratch your door sills, etc.

The battery is in there pretty well. I'll have to take a look at it and see if it has loosened. I kind of wanted to test it out and see if there were any issues before I made something more permanent.

It's been in for a week and seems great. I probably should not leave my lights, etc. on without having the car running but so far so good.

UsafaRice

Good call on all that. The steel plate only weighs about 2 pounds, but we have a 20 gallon tank, so lose another 18 lb.

BlackZ33

Do you have picture with the seat out ?
Do you feel a noticeable difference when you done all the weight saving ?

Thanks

03redlineZ

iTrader: (59)

I took my spare tire out too
taking the seat out is a good idea too thats like 80lbs together

I actually noticed a huge difference in acceleration when i lowered all my tires tire pressure form 40psi to 25 psi and i have the track rims which are light anyway
I changed form the 17 inch which weigh 53 pounds with tires and i think the track rims are around 40lbs with tires? most likely lighter
but my point is everyone should try the tire pressure thing its a huge difference

Also on a side note i raced my buddy on the highway with his S2000 we were rolling at around 60 miles per hour we went to like 110 per hour and i killed him by about 4 car lengths if not more, so chalk another one up for the Z killing the S2K
later BoyZ and GirlZ

Vlad

That's wishfull thinking estimations... spare is more like 40 and cf hardly will save weight over aluminum, at least according to people who did it.

Wheels... I saved 37 with 15.8 lbs rims and very light toyo tires. For 50 lbs you'll need magnesium wheels ($$$$)

Reasonable ways to save more is light cf seats. 12 lbs each - Versus stock...40?

Dry-cell battery ~25lbs savings

Vlad

Anybody thought of moving washer fluid into the trunk? Shouldn't be that difficult... It really bothers me sitting so far forward

Also most of people here seems to be concerned only about 1/4 times... I'm more concerned about cornering, since that's what makes difference in autox. And 200 lbs less makes a big difference. It makes Z way lighter than STI and even lighter than WRX

phile

It seems like most of the people who are going FI like to stoplight race or go to the track. Depending on how twisty the course, I wonder how much an FI kit would help out an autox time? It obviously isn't going to help slalom speeds out, or lateral g's...

Dissolved

So what is the general consensus on removing the spare tire/jack. Is it going to cause traction issues etc? I can get good launches now. That's my concern.

Also, I have an extended warranty. Doesnt that include free onside road assistance anyway (if I remember correctly ) in case I get a flat

Dissolved

ditto

boyze

Actually a weight optimized CF structure should be considerably lighter than an Aluminum version. Three reasons: 1) the specific weight of CF is 40% lower than that of AL, 2) the strength of 60% volume fill CF in the fiber direction is over 5 times higher than that of AL and 3) with the added design variable offered by the ability to optimize the fiber directions in the higher stress areas one can actually use considerably less material. These are reasons why many new aircraft are going to more and more CF instead of AL even though material costs can be higher. What many CF auto hood makers do is simply copy the AL design and sometimes use fiberglass for the structural layers, both methods making for non-optimized designs.

There's a recent post where someone has built CF door and body panels with some enticing weight numbers.

UsafaRice

You're correct on the theory there, but the fact is that no one I have seen has posted a hood that saved more than 10 lbs. There is a limit to the weight savings that can be had with a hood that won't deform at highway or higher (uhm, governor at 156) speeds.

Since the hood only weighs 24 lbs to begin with, keeping the latch and/or adding pins and the hinges stuff is still going to require a certain amount of weight.

As far as doors, I called bulletproof about the Amuse dry carbon ones. They don't have any specs on these or pictures, but I'm sure they are a lot lighter. Here's the website http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...%2fz_list.html Of course, the lightening comes at the expense of the reinforcements Nissan puts in the doors stock. As much as I would love to save 50+ lbs from something like this, I don't want to catch a car nose in my lap if I get T-boned!

Please post links to anything on CF doors or fenders. I can't find any more info anywhere. I called Extreme Dimensions (Carbon Creations) and they said their CF fenders won't be out until later this year.

UsafaRice

Just empty it for a track event (siphon tube). It's ~8 lbs I think but you shouldn't need it while racing.

UsafaRice

Took it to a scale. Spare is 37 lbs and jack stuff is 3.5 lbs. I heard stock seats are 37 a piece.

I asked someone who did the GReddy turbo about the bumper brace and he said it was 15 lbs at most. It's already made out of aluminum...

When my Amuse exhaust gets here from Nihon, I'll post weights on the stock cats, Y, cat-back, etc.

Anyone else got good weight reduction ideas (for example, draining oil and coolant is a BAD one, but not installing an 80 lb stereo is good one)...

phile

what is difference exactly between dry carbon and wet carbon. I'm guessing dry carbon is dry with a sort of matte finish, and wet carbon is smooth and clearcoated?