What Is The Best Motor Oil Brand To Use
02-09-2005, 02:37 PM
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What Is The Best Motor Oil Brand To Use
WHAT BRAND...WICH GRADE... SYNTETIC OR NOT IF I CHANGE IT EVERY 5000KM ( 3200 MILES)
TOO MANY PRODUCT AVAILABLE...I NEED HELP
PRICE IS NOT A FACTOR
THANKS
TOO MANY PRODUCT AVAILABLE...I NEED HELP
PRICE IS NOT A FACTOR
THANKS
02-09-2005, 02:55 PM
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Re: What Is The Best Motor Oil Brand To Use
Originally posted by mart32
WHAT BRAND...WICH GRADE... SYNTETIC OR NOT IF I CHANGE IT EVERY 5000KM ( 3200 MILES)
TOO MANY PRODUCT AVAILABLE...I NEED HELP
PRICE IS NOT A FACTOR
THANKS
WHAT BRAND...WICH GRADE... SYNTETIC OR NOT IF I CHANGE IT EVERY 5000KM ( 3200 MILES)
TOO MANY PRODUCT AVAILABLE...I NEED HELP
PRICE IS NOT A FACTOR
THANKS
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02-09-2005, 04:37 PM
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We are a MOTUL Distributer...
Still working on getting all of the products on our site...
Here is what I have so far...
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...Path=1170_1171
The 300V is their flagship synthetic oil... You can run your turbo'd car and get it fully hot, turn it off... and the oil will not cake up in the turbo's...
Still working on getting all of the products on our site...
Here is what I have so far...
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...Path=1170_1171
The 300V is their flagship synthetic oil... You can run your turbo'd car and get it fully hot, turn it off... and the oil will not cake up in the turbo's...
02-09-2005, 06:20 PM
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These are all fine choices. I'll recommend another: GermanCastrol Syntec (absolutely not the US-made phonysyn stuff). German Castrol, or GC as it known to many, comes only in the 0w-30 grade, and produces great results across a lot of different platforms, including the VQ. I'm on my second fill of it, at about 16k miles on the car, and 6k on this fill, planning to run it to 10k. At 5k, I did a UOA with the optional particle count. With the GC and the Mobil-1 M1-110 filter, I got oil that was outstandingly clean. In fact, it is considered clean by hydraulic fluid standards (more demanding than motor oil). Many people I talk with immediately react with some form of, "OMG, that stuff's too thin. . ." It's not. In fact, when hot, it actually shows itself to be a thick 30 wt (over 12 centistokes, making it almost a 40 wt). And when cold, you get the fast-lube-on-start benefit of a 0w oil. It does not really have any shear problems either, as you can see from my data, below, and it has a high-temp/high-shear (HT/HS) viscosity rating of 3.6 (the Mobil-1 5w-30 is a 2.99 and the 10w-30 is a 3.16). Enough already, here's the data:
Code:
Element This Last Universal Sample Sample (GC1) Averages Aluminum 1 1 3 Chromium 0 0 1 Iron 7 7 12 Copper 11 16 8 Lead 2 1 5 Tin 0 0 1 Moly 8 48 61 Nickel 0 0 0 Manganese 2 0 1 Silver 0 0 0 Titanium 0 0 0 Potassium 1 0 1 Boron 2 7 86 Silicon 9 12 12 Sodium 1 2 5 Calcium 3132 2723 2511 Magnesium 105 98 156 Phosphorus 637 717 741 Zinc 780 954 885 Barium 0 0 0 ========== Test : Vis Flash Fuel AFZ H2O INSOL @210F Deg F % % % % . Shd Be: 58-65 >365 <2.0 0 <0.1 <0.6 . This: 62.1 410 <0.5 0.0 0 0.1! Sampl . TBN = 3.8 PARTICLE COUNTS Size of Particle Count >=2 microns 757 >=5 microns 280 >=10 microns 77 >=15microns 30 >=25microns 7 >=50microns 0 >=100microns 0 This gets an “ISO Cleanliness Code” of 15/12, per Blackstone, which is “considered clean for a used engine oil”. I was also told that this PC result would be considered acceptable for continued use in a hydraulic system.
02-10-2005, 07:33 PM
#16
Pao based is the best. Ester base is good but hard on the seals. I don't know about the german castrol but castrol syntec in general uses a group 3 base which is actually a dino.
Amsoil is a joke you couldn't pay me enough to use it. well actually could but i wouldn't pay them for what you can get with mobil one.
I also use ProTecta and Gaszol from SFR www.sfrcorp.com its safe with turbos and high reving engines.
Oil is a base the only thing that builds on it is the additives so what do you get in a oil? They won't tell you the only way is oil anaylsis which torcaholic is pointing out.
This is actually what everyone should be doing if they're critical about how well there engine is performing. Oil anaylisis tells you almost everything thats going on inside your engine even better than if you take it apart.
Downside it won't find exotic additives with out gas chromotagrophy.
I don't use name brand oils simply cause its all marketing. In the end they're all about the same. If it has a SM or SL they must meet that requirement the only thing to exceed is additives and the oil guys have to buy them so they keep them to a minimum.
I make my own oil so i don't really worry about it so much
Amsoil is a joke you couldn't pay me enough to use it. well actually could but i wouldn't pay them for what you can get with mobil one.
I also use ProTecta and Gaszol from SFR www.sfrcorp.com its safe with turbos and high reving engines.
Oil is a base the only thing that builds on it is the additives so what do you get in a oil? They won't tell you the only way is oil anaylsis which torcaholic is pointing out.
This is actually what everyone should be doing if they're critical about how well there engine is performing. Oil anaylisis tells you almost everything thats going on inside your engine even better than if you take it apart.
Downside it won't find exotic additives with out gas chromotagrophy.
I don't use name brand oils simply cause its all marketing. In the end they're all about the same. If it has a SM or SL they must meet that requirement the only thing to exceed is additives and the oil guys have to buy them so they keep them to a minimum.
I make my own oil so i don't really worry about it so much
02-10-2005, 07:46 PM
#17
Yeah those numbers aren't bad for a used oil considering its on a engine thats exposed to the elements but if you put additional filtration on it could be much cleaner. Not bad though.
They like the calcium sulfanate thats the highest additive they're using.
The Zinc is ZDDP which is found in STP. Good antiwear agent.
It looks like copper is used minutely as a wannabe extreme pressure agent.
The 7 above 25 microns is whats bypassing through the full flow if it were hydraulics i would filter the oil immediately it ain't much but in glass fit applications its enough to stick a valve.
much less than 2 micron and you will strip the additives in the oil which you don't want to do.
If this is a used anaylsis the copper could also be coming from your bearings but its so small i don't think so even in the slightest.
Silicon is the number one thing that will take your particle count up silicon or silica is dirt but you must of changed the filter or cleaned since the last sample was taking. or it was just less dusty since the numbers arent so far apart.
Fuel and water are also low which is great fuel dilution is a very bad thing to the oil and engine.
They like the calcium sulfanate thats the highest additive they're using.
The Zinc is ZDDP which is found in STP. Good antiwear agent.
It looks like copper is used minutely as a wannabe extreme pressure agent.
The 7 above 25 microns is whats bypassing through the full flow if it were hydraulics i would filter the oil immediately it ain't much but in glass fit applications its enough to stick a valve.
much less than 2 micron and you will strip the additives in the oil which you don't want to do.
If this is a used anaylsis the copper could also be coming from your bearings but its so small i don't think so even in the slightest.
Silicon is the number one thing that will take your particle count up silicon or silica is dirt but you must of changed the filter or cleaned since the last sample was taking. or it was just less dusty since the numbers arent so far apart.
Fuel and water are also low which is great fuel dilution is a very bad thing to the oil and engine.
02-11-2005, 04:56 AM
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Originally posted by Kray Z
Pao based is the best. Ester base is good but hard on the seals. I don't know about the german castrol but castrol syntec in general uses a group 3 base which is actually a dino.
{snip}
Pao based is the best. Ester base is good but hard on the seals. I don't know about the german castrol but castrol syntec in general uses a group 3 base which is actually a dino.
{snip}
I also like primarily PAO formultions, but would add that its hard to find any oil that is blended with only one type of base oil. Current M1 is PAO+AN. Even the fabled "ester based" Redline now contains a health %-age of PAO too. NEO is probably an exception; I believe their products are solely diester based.
I still don't particularly care for Castrol, its marketing abuse of the term "synthetic," or the whole G-III thing in general. On the other hand, even if GC did turn out to be a complete G-III product, can you really argue with its performance in my car, as indicated by the numbers above?
02-11-2005, 07:37 AM
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switched to royal purple 10w40 at 8K miles.
with moderate tracking, and a few trips to the dragstrip and aggressive driving on streets. I burned not even a quart of oil in 4000 miles. I was surprised I never even was close to having to add some. Amazing oil.
with moderate tracking, and a few trips to the dragstrip and aggressive driving on streets. I burned not even a quart of oil in 4000 miles. I was surprised I never even was close to having to add some. Amazing oil.