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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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Default What Is The Best Motor Oil Brand To Use

WHAT BRAND...WICH GRADE... SYNTETIC OR NOT IF I CHANGE IT EVERY 5000KM ( 3200 MILES)

TOO MANY PRODUCT AVAILABLE...I NEED HELP

PRICE IS NOT A FACTOR


THANKS
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 02:52 PM
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I am running Amsoil 5W30 with a MObil 1 oil filter.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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Default Re: What Is The Best Motor Oil Brand To Use

Originally posted by mart32
WHAT BRAND...WICH GRADE... SYNTETIC OR NOT IF I CHANGE IT EVERY 5000KM ( 3200 MILES)

TOO MANY PRODUCT AVAILABLE...I NEED HELP

PRICE IS NOT A FACTOR


THANKS
MOBIL-1 IS WHAT IS PREFERRED.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 02:58 PM
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Originally posted by zachcrosen
I am running Amsoil 5W30 with a MObil 1 oil filter.
+1
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 03:04 PM
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MOTUL 300V!
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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Motul 5w40 forget the series (8100?) with K&N Filter
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 04:06 PM
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FROM WHAT I READ I THINK MOBIL 1 OR MOTUL IS THE WAY TO GO...

I WAS ON MUTUL WEBSITE A FEW MINUTES AGO...THEY HAVE GREAT PRODUCTS ....

THANKS
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 04:14 PM
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Mobil 1 6 quarts!
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 04:21 PM
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Originally posted by daddyz
Mobil 1 6 quarts!
i thought it was 5 quarts?
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 04:37 PM
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We are a MOTUL Distributer...

Still working on getting all of the products on our site...

Here is what I have so far...

http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...Path=1170_1171

The 300V is their flagship synthetic oil... You can run your turbo'd car and get it fully hot, turn it off... and the oil will not cake up in the turbo's...
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 05:25 PM
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Mobil 1 all the way!!!
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 06:20 PM
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These are all fine choices. I'll recommend another: GermanCastrol Syntec (absolutely not the US-made phonysyn stuff). German Castrol, or GC as it known to many, comes only in the 0w-30 grade, and produces great results across a lot of different platforms, including the VQ. I'm on my second fill of it, at about 16k miles on the car, and 6k on this fill, planning to run it to 10k. At 5k, I did a UOA with the optional particle count. With the GC and the Mobil-1 M1-110 filter, I got oil that was outstandingly clean. In fact, it is considered clean by hydraulic fluid standards (more demanding than motor oil). Many people I talk with immediately react with some form of, "OMG, that stuff's too thin. . ." It's not. In fact, when hot, it actually shows itself to be a thick 30 wt (over 12 centistokes, making it almost a 40 wt). And when cold, you get the fast-lube-on-start benefit of a 0w oil. It does not really have any shear problems either, as you can see from my data, below, and it has a high-temp/high-shear (HT/HS) viscosity rating of 3.6 (the Mobil-1 5w-30 is a 2.99 and the 10w-30 is a 3.16). Enough already, here's the data:

Code:
Element			This 	Last		Universal
			Sample	Sample (GC1)	Averages

Aluminum		1		1		3
Chromium		0		0		1
Iron    		7		7		12
Copper  		11		16		8
Lead 	  		2		1		5
Tin     		0		0		1
Moly    		8		48		61
Nickel  		0		0		0
Manganese		2		0		1
Silver   		0		0		0
Titanium 		0		0		0
Potassium		1		0		1
Boron   		2		7		86
Silicon  		9		12		12
Sodium   		1		2		5
Calcium 		3132		2723		2511
Magnesium 		105		98		156
Phosphorus		637		717		741
Zinc     		780		954		885
Barium   		0		0		0

==========


Test :	Vis		Flash	Fuel	AFZ	H2O	INSOL
	@210F		Deg F	%	%	%	%

.
Shd Be:	58-65		>365	<2.0	0	<0.1	<0.6

.
This:	62.1		410	<0.5	0.0	0	0.1!
Sampl

.
TBN = 3.8

PARTICLE COUNTS

Size of Particle		Count

>=2 microns			757
>=5 microns			280
>=10 microns			77
>=15microns			30
>=25microns			7
>=50microns			0
>=100microns			0

This gets an “ISO Cleanliness Code” 
of 15/12, per Blackstone, which is 
“considered clean for a used engine oil”.  
I was also told that this PC result would 
be considered acceptable for continued 
use in a hydraulic system.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:03 PM
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I am also running Amsoil 5w30, but I am using a K&N oil filter.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:28 PM
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so is it 5 or 6 qts?
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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5 with an oil filter change

without oil filter change, it a bit less
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 07:33 PM
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Pao based is the best. Ester base is good but hard on the seals. I don't know about the german castrol but castrol syntec in general uses a group 3 base which is actually a dino.

Amsoil is a joke you couldn't pay me enough to use it. well actually could but i wouldn't pay them for what you can get with mobil one.

I also use ProTecta and Gaszol from SFR www.sfrcorp.com its safe with turbos and high reving engines.

Oil is a base the only thing that builds on it is the additives so what do you get in a oil? They won't tell you the only way is oil anaylsis which torcaholic is pointing out.
This is actually what everyone should be doing if they're critical about how well there engine is performing. Oil anaylisis tells you almost everything thats going on inside your engine even better than if you take it apart.
Downside it won't find exotic additives with out gas chromotagrophy.

I don't use name brand oils simply cause its all marketing. In the end they're all about the same. If it has a SM or SL they must meet that requirement the only thing to exceed is additives and the oil guys have to buy them so they keep them to a minimum.

I make my own oil so i don't really worry about it so much
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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Yeah those numbers aren't bad for a used oil considering its on a engine thats exposed to the elements but if you put additional filtration on it could be much cleaner. Not bad though.

They like the calcium sulfanate thats the highest additive they're using.

The Zinc is ZDDP which is found in STP. Good antiwear agent.

It looks like copper is used minutely as a wannabe extreme pressure agent.

The 7 above 25 microns is whats bypassing through the full flow if it were hydraulics i would filter the oil immediately it ain't much but in glass fit applications its enough to stick a valve.

much less than 2 micron and you will strip the additives in the oil which you don't want to do.

If this is a used anaylsis the copper could also be coming from your bearings but its so small i don't think so even in the slightest.

Silicon is the number one thing that will take your particle count up silicon or silica is dirt but you must of changed the filter or cleaned since the last sample was taking. or it was just less dusty since the numbers arent so far apart.

Fuel and water are also low which is great fuel dilution is a very bad thing to the oil and engine.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 04:56 AM
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Originally posted by Kray Z
Pao based is the best. Ester base is good but hard on the seals. I don't know about the german castrol but castrol syntec in general uses a group 3 base which is actually a dino.

{snip}
My use of the term "phonysyn" is based upon the US-made Syntec being a G-III product. The German made stuff, which is really a happy oddity in the North American market, is different. It is actually the same product Castrol sells in Europe as "SLX". In the European market, unlike the US, it is not legal to refer to a G-III as being synthetic. Although I've got some pretty good second had info indicating that GC is in fact a G-IV/V blend, a group I belong to is actually running some gas chromatography testing on samples of this stuff to make sure (expensive, but we've spread the costs). I'll be happy to share some of this info as soon as the tests are complete.

I also like primarily PAO formultions, but would add that its hard to find any oil that is blended with only one type of base oil. Current M1 is PAO+AN. Even the fabled "ester based" Redline now contains a health %-age of PAO too. NEO is probably an exception; I believe their products are solely diester based.

I still don't particularly care for Castrol, its marketing abuse of the term "synthetic," or the whole G-III thing in general. On the other hand, even if GC did turn out to be a complete G-III product, can you really argue with its performance in my car, as indicated by the numbers above?
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 05:03 AM
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Motul in the engine and motul in the rear for me
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 07:37 AM
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switched to royal purple 10w40 at 8K miles.

with moderate tracking, and a few trips to the dragstrip and aggressive driving on streets. I burned not even a quart of oil in 4000 miles. I was surprised I never even was close to having to add some. Amazing oil.
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