Kray Z

I use a vampire pump and new hose every sample. Its really a verry delicate process cause to take a proper sample you never want to take from the bottom of the pan. You must be careful not to scrap or touch stuff when entering the pan. And on top of that i've seen lots of scewed results from inadequate lab cleanliness AKA the slides they use. UOA's are good Gas chromotography is better, But at 50-100 a test it ain't worth it.

frostyrock7c

iTrader: (4)

Mobil 1 is God's lubricant, we use it on God's chariots(redneck name for Corvettes)
with a Nissan filter

Torkaholic

Shoot, for that price, I think next time, I'll do a dual and compare how the ~$10 test stacks up against the ~$25-35 test. That ought to be interesting.

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I've got a pretty effective ritual for cleaning the tubing I use on my pump. I purge out the oil with WD-40 and then purge out the WD with air. The plastic dries very clean. So far, I have not seen any indication that my samples are tainted or my results skewed.

Sampling technique is important too. I pull at least two bottles (only about 4 oz each) and discard those pulls before I draw one up for keeps. This helps ensure that any crud already in the tube, or picked up as the tube threads down, will not end up in my tested sample. On the other hand, we're not dealing with life-and-death hospital labs here either. If I get an erratic, inconsistent silicone reading, I'll check my air filter and intake plumbing for damage, and sample more carefully next time.

Where can you get a gas chrome for $50-100? For that price, I might do one once a year or so. A group of us have gotten together to reverse engineer the German Castrol to see what it really is for sure, and gas chrome is costing ~$400, but it's taking several runs to break it all out.

G-Spot Racing

Thanks for the replys. I am in the process of moving back to El Paso, TX, so the the summer heat would make the engine a little warmer. I am going to switch to Royal Purple 10w-40.
Thanks again!

LaterZ

Kray Z

Mobil one is not gods lubricant. Mobil one may be a GOOD lubricant, but there are others as good or better as well. As for the corvette yeah not gods chariot. I think god would prefer a saleen s7 or a ENZo over a corvette. Good try though.

Kray Z

Yo tork your absolutely on it again.
I'm not so sure about the WD but hey its a thin non lubricant solvent so i guess it might be ok.

I was just pointing out that UOA's are good but you can push it even farther yet and your right about the GAS Chromo it can take several tries before getting it just perfect but boy are the acurate.

As for the Hospital thing mechanics and doctors are essentially the same people. Inadiment objects don't get as much credit as people do but afterall they were created by people. But many of the tools and procedures are sometimes life threatening LOL.

Kray Z

If you get a chance NORIA puts on a great seminar of how to manage your samples and proper procedures. I think i have the course somewhere here i'll have to find it. Very informative and very technical.

www.noria.com

ppw350Zunit

iTrader: (14)

anyone using redline?

[]D[][]V[][]D

I heard Torcos' the best.
Hell, if it's good enough for Indy cars, it's good enough for my car.

Jason@Performance

iTrader: (11)

With 100% Ester oils 20 years ago when people were not making seals with the same materials on all cars it could have caused a problem and did in some cases... It was mostly with Domestic cars (USA)... Motul is very big in the racing sceen over seas in Asia etc where they developed the oils for those race motors...

But these days all manufacturers are using the same types of materials for seals to where the ester oils are not a problem...

Using the 300V since it is positivly charged in a way that the oil particals go into the metals filling every crevis, if there is a seal / gasket / etc that is not machined perfectly and regular oil sludge has built up there, the ester oil will work its way into it and that area will be come wet. it will not neccessarly leak, but will become wet...

I would recomend 300V 5w30 for the driver who is on it alot... and 300V 5w40 for the driver who isnt very hard on their Z...

http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...ds=motul+300+v

Kray Z

So do you know what material is being used for sealing? Buna, EPDM, VITON. Or something else. I'm still not convinced.

Kray Z

Contrary to believe their is NO BEST oil. There are GOOD oils and that is all some better than others but overall near the same. I find that word of mouth is the most effective marketing tools for some of these companies but if you really want to know instead of guessing. UOA's are required. VOA's would be accepted as a baseline of what choice you may want to make but still after that even you must know the application and how it will respond thats where the UOA's come in.

Used oil anaylisis
Virgin oil anaylisis or unused oil new.

Kray Z

Jason no matter what. You are happy with motul and sell it. I'm not going to try to talk you out of it but only want to have a objective view on the entire subject at hand.

Every forum I've ever been too has the INFAMOUS oil threads. This is no different. The difference is though everyone respects each other here and are willing to learn. This is very important to keeping an open mind .

I commend you and keep the lines open.

My mission in the oil threads is education and trying to stifle the opinions and stick with the facts.

Torkaholic

Yep, a good, informative discussion. I pretty much agree with Kray-Z on the "best oil" thing. On interesting phenomenon I've noticed is that an individual's driving style and envronment seem to have a significant impact on the results they get in UOA. For example, I have some UOA from my old Camry V-6 that look very similar to those from my G35. I don't think it's because the engines are similar (they're really not), but rather, it's more because I drive the new G35 in much the same style and the exact same enviromnent as I did the Camry. Of course, the engine is a huge factor too. If, for example, you dig up some UOAs on the Toyota/Lexus 2UZ-FE (the V-8 from the Sequoia, Tundra, Landcruiser, and 4-Runner) you'll see some of the most amazing clean results anywhere, almost regardless of the oil. Hell, you could probably successfully run this engine on Wesson cooking oil. My thought is that each driver should try a few different oils in his or her car, lab test each, and use the one that works best in that driver-car-location combo. The Motul may be manna from heaven in one car, and like weasel pi$$ in another. Same thing for the German Castrol I'm running, or Kray-Z's homebrew.

EDIT: One more thing -- I do respectfully disagree with Kray-Z's point about opinions. I think opinions are fine, so long as they are held out as opinions and not fact. That's a major challenge on a topic like this where folks tend to think that their own opinions are sacred and beyond challenge.

Kray Z

No your right Tork. Opinions and stories of good luck and fortune from various oils are good and much welcome. I just wanted to break the stereotype of "this is the Best oil" without any factual data to back it up with. Why is it the best oil?

There are many tricks of the trade to meet certain intrests. If mileage is important use a thin weight oil. If cleaning is of important. A oil with more detergents are better suited.

Really Not one oil out there is the best in everything. Different oils provide different solutions for different problems.

We just need to work on getting that data out, and expose the oils on a more intimate level to better educate everyone on which to use for what intrest they have.

No flaming just down and dirty truth that i think you'll agree with.

Kray Z

I too have opinions about certain oils that I haven't given the proper courtesy of trying or testing. Esters are one of them. If i knew all the materials involved were compatible

"not from the company but a higher authority like a out of house testing facility"

I would have to say that esters are the best even better than PAO simply because they handle the heat far greater than the PAO based oils. The seal issue to me is more important than the performance issue. If youre a racer and like teardown ever so often this would be an ideal choice.