I plan on installing my Safeguard this weekend. Any tips from anyone who has already done it. It looks pretty straight forward according to the manual. My main concern is where to cut the coil wires. Where is the easiest access to the wires? Any other concerns? I have a memo from J&S about including some diodes in line with the wires. Thanks.

 

Instructions:
You never un-wrap it and send it back because it doesn't work.
Then you have extra $$ towards a real piggyback or stand alone sytem.

J/K I had to

I tapped into my 6th cyl coilpack near the back of the motor to hide the wire.That was for the rpm signal to my window switch.I believe it was the grey wire w/ a red stripe.
Hope that helps

 

I heard somebody had some issues with it. Maybe someone could step in and refresh my memory.

 

I installed one on an 04 Auto Z that runs the ATI and every possible bolt on. The Ultra safeguard is the only thing we are using to control timing and as far as I'm concerned it works great. This car is a 90 mile a day daily driver and has probably 50 passes down the strip, not to mention a fair amount of street racing. It has over 20k miles since all this was installed and has had no issues with detonation and is not a built motor.
Heres the key for setup for the J&S
READ THE DIRECTIONS!
Pay attention to the wiring diagram!
Set the knock sensitivity EXACTLY like it says-don't second guess the unit.
I assume your F/I-if you don't have a ULTRA safeguard don't use it. The standard safeguard is not for F/I
The ULTRA safegaurd has BOOST based and RPM based retard
Set the rpm retard to 2 degrees
Set the start **** to no higher than 3 PSI
Set the rate **** to around 1 psi per pound of boost to begin with, this is very conservative.
Properly calibrated the knock function should never be active, you can back off the rate a little at a time until you see knock and then go the other direction.
I would HIGHLY recommend cutting the "knock" LED loose from the unit and wiring it out to into the drivers vision so you can use it to tune the unit and know if a problem is developing.
Wiring. All the wires you need are accessible at the ECU which is close to where most people mount them anyway. You need to get a wiring diagram from the service manual that shows the pin #s and wire colors and cross check that against the J&S diagram. I found a wire color discrepency due to ?model year change?.
Double check your coil color wires at the ecu by comparing them to the signal wire at the coil plug on the engine. It's the middle of the three wires. Unplug it at the coil and ohm it out with a meter to double check if your not sure.
Make very sure the powered hot to the unit is "hot while cranking" by actually checking it with a meter while cranking the motor. Most of the hots you find turn themselves off while the engine is cranking.
I powered mine from the battery and used a relay driven by my hot while cranking source in order not to have the J&S on an unknown source.
Pay attention to the wiring diagram..some of the lines cross; sorry if that sounds stupid but it does happen....
Good luck