ReavTek

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you will have any issues with the NA mods I recommended. But, you definetly won't be making F/I level power gains either, basically you are just gonna increase your acceleration a helluva lot. I really don't think this motor is made for boost, do a search. Some people install kits, don't even tune them, and run around for 2 years no probs. Others install it and blow the motor in a matter of months... It's a huge gamble, so if you want to do FI you really haveta do it right. This means a built motor, fuel work, and proper tune. The only F/I I would recommend to someone who doesn't want to build the motor would be the Stillen (Stage 1 or Stage 2) which produces decent gains (you'll be hitting 325whp+) and is extremely safe (hell you can even have your motor covered, by warranty, from Stillen). If you want a mod that will speed you up a bit and won't affect your choice of going F/I or staying N/A I would recommend 17 inch or 18 inch wheels with grippy rubber (245/45/R17 would be really nice).

Z04

iTrader: (15)

what he said. those right there are the killer when it comes to time. weight, rims the wrong size and adding the wrong parts.

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

[/QUOTE]what he said. those right there are the killer when it comes to time. weight, rims the wrong size and adding the wrong parts.don't think you will have any issues with the NA mods I recommended. But, you definetly won't be making F/I level power gains either, basically you are just gonna increase your acceleration a helluva lot. I really don't think this motor is made for boost, do a search. Some people install kits, don't even tune them, and run around for 2 years no probs. Others install it and blow the motor in a matter of months... It's a huge gamble, so if you want to do FI you really haveta do it right. This means a built motor, fuel work, and proper tune. The only F/I I would recommend to someone who doesn't want to build the motor would be the Stillen (Stage 1 or Stage 2) which produces decent gains (you'll be hitting 325whp+) and is extremely safe (hell you can even have your motor covered, by warranty, from Stillen). If you want a mod that will speed you up a bit and won't affect your choice of going F/I or staying N/A I would recommend 17 inch or 18 inch wheels with grippy rubber (245/45/R17 would be really nice).[QUOTE]
That's true, I really don't want to blow my motor, that's the main thing, and I don't know if I can handle the hood I have to get for the Stillen SC. I think that the cams and final drive might be the way to go as of now, maybe go SC after I graduate and actually get a job and can afford blowing things up. So what are the best cams out there? I hear Crawford’s coming out with some... That would be nice, but what cams are out that that are mild and well, not so hard on the bank, while still being good quality? Also would the 350Evo final drive be the way to go? I know it was the only one out for a while and I read a really good write up on it, but I think there is another out now... Any suggestions.....?

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

That didn't come out quite right, I hope ya get what I mean....

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

if you're going NA for SURE, then the 3.9 final drive is a good mod.

The crawford cams or really aggressive 276 tomei cams would be the way to go too.
IMO I'd get the JWT cams because you can use them for FI as well as good NA. Cams are a ***** to change out. the final drive is too, but at least you can just swap out the pumkin back with a stock one if you want without too much trouble.

ReavTek

iTrader: (1)

I think Central 20 has become a very reasonably priced alternative to the 350EVO Final Drive. However, I don't know enough about it at this point to make an educated opinion about it. Cam wise I didn't know Crawford released their camshaft yet and so I dont have any details on it. The Nismo Spec 1s 276 grind seems to be the best NA choice, Tomei also offers a 276 and can do a more mild 268 for you if you like. If you are going to bother swapping the cams go for the 276 cam. I am in your boat, pretty much, for the time being. I am going to school and am trying to get in a career (studying print journalism) so money is tight. I plan on staying NA with this vehicle as it is safe, reliable, easy to do in stages, and provides enough power to keep me happy. Once I graduate and am settled down I'll probably get another car so I can tinker with boost (Tercel with 4EFTE, 240SX with SR20, 300ZX Turbo). Anyways, my final mod for probably the next few years is going to be a set of wheels and grippier rubber...

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

crawford has not released their camshaft yet. But you can wait for them...

seems like most people say they got the most enjoyment from suspension and tires/wheels and a few minor bolt on parts like exhaust, cats, plenum, UR pulley, and intake

those things will lighten up the car and give you more power and sound without the ECU interfering

A final drive and LSD would be the next things I'd do after that along with maybe a new clutch/flywheel

if you start adding cams, headers, ECU flash etc after that, then you might start running into some ECU issues with timing being pulled and then it starts feeling like the NA gains just aren't worth the money.

ZXiMan

Central 20? Never heard of them....

I have the 350evo 3.917 gear set and plan on doing an install very soon. This is going in an '05 Infiniti G35 sedan (6MT). I plan on getting the Crawford headers and high flow cats installed at about the same time. Currently I have a ported Crawford plenum, JWT pop-charger, Z-tube, ported throttlebody (just a clean up), and Fujitsubo Legalis-R exhaust. It runs much better than stock! I have heard the 3.9 gear ratio makes a *VERY* noticeable difference in acceleration (approximately 2-3 tenths in the quartermile).

bascelik

Hm. With Stillen I cannot even launch. Tires burn at even 2000rpm launch. Perhaps you should consider this type of SC? Enough torque to feel power all throughout, although you won't have much up top .

MT Zs are close to AT Zs in performance due to great deal of drivetrain loss for MT. That is, heavy clutch and flywheel. Put an ATS clutch in there and enjoy the extra power.

That is my opinion and I'm sticking to it .

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

Hey thanks a lot. I am really looking on Stillen, but I don't know if I can stomach the hood.....

I thought that the Z already has LSD, Im sure my model has it, is it not good enough?

Another question... If staying NA, and getting cams... Would an ECU reflash make things run more smoothly and keep things safe?

ReavTek

iTrader: (1)

Well, the factory VLSD isn't nearly as good as a Cusco RS or many other aftermarket LSDs. Do your homework though because some LSDs are noisy as all hell and many end up removing them because they say the car pops like a mother all around town. A nicely setup LSD will give you more confidence in the corners and let you get all the power to the ground faster.

Yeah, you will need to address tuning either before (new ECU/Piggyback) or after cam install (Reflash). I would hold off until you have most or all of your upgrades purchased and then knock it all out in one reflash, so you dont end up paying for a reflash 2-3 times again down the road. Either that or keep an eye on eManage Ultimate, which seems like a very reasonably priced alternative to a standalone ECU.

ZXiMan

I think the drivetrain loss is still considerably higher with the AT. There are less moving parts and less (power robbing) friction with the manual transmission. I have heard the manual is 12%-15% reduction from flywheel to rear wheel. I can't imagine gaining a buch of power at the wheels by going to a lighter flywheel. Sure the engine will rev faster (less reciprical drag) but...