MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

Im so annoyed right now. I have about $2,500 put into the motor and performance of my car and it ran just as fast STOCK. Granted I have upgraded to 19" rims, but still is it that big of a difference? Look below for my mods...... And tell me what should be my next motor upgrade.... Im not in the market for FI or Final Drive as of yet, something cheaper..... I ran a consistent 14.2 Stock and now I can barely, and I mean barely break 14.0.... What's the deal. I know im not that great of a driver.... My launches KILL me, and I know if I improve that I will gain a lot, but short of FI, what's next? Just getting thoughts... Trying to build the motor as much NA as possible before Boost. No headers, still not sure if im going SC or TT yet...... Opinions..???

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

The reason im making this post is that I have seen some people running 13.9 -13.7 STOCK, and while im not all that held up on quarter mile times I would still like to know my car will run in the mid 13's all day....

PS Another question I had was, why is the Track model slightly faster than the rest? Weight?

THANKS GUYS!!!

ReavTek

iTrader: (1)

Bad Mods:
B&M Short Throw - I find this actually makes it more difficult to shift and increases shift effort and time.

Axis Hiro (19x9.5 & 19x10.5) Rims, Nitto NT555 Tires Yes 19" wheels are horrible, they kill your accel as well as braking, turn in and overall feel... dump em. I'm not too sure about the Nittos I really like the Bridgestone KDWs as well as Toyo PROXES.

*Audio* JBL 500WT Amp, Sony Expode 10" Sub (in stock sub hole). WEIGHT WEIGHT AND MORE WEIGHT... You should be listening to the motor not bass. :/

ReavTek

iTrader: (1)

Oh and I forgot, Pulleys would be a good next upgrade. I would also say flywheel but I'm not a drag guy and this mod is more aimed towards a road course.

Jaki

iTrader: (21)

Well, I'm sorry to say this but NA mods really aren't going to get you a big difference. Since you said your planning on going FI, I would suggest that you just get some test pipes to finish off the breather mods and get a crank pulley, and then start saving for FI.

UnderPressure

iTrader: (4)

You hit the nail on the head when you said your not a good driver.

Practice, practice, practice. You will find alot more time impoving the driver rather than the car.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

+100 ! Practice your driving and mount your stock rims when you go racing.

I disagree, look at my times with bolt-ons. Even if you factor out the e.t. cuz of the slicks, my mph went up 7 mph over my stock trap. That is a HUGE n/a increase in trap speed-and with stock headers. You just have to know how to drive your car to its full potential, unfortunately most guys cant. Also, if you plan on running a s/c Jaki is incorrect you cant run a CP with a s/c, just a turbo.

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

See that's the thing.... I love my wheels, Im an all around kinda guy. I like everything from performance.... to looks. Therefore I have to have my look good mods as well as my go go mods. I think FI would be my best bet. I don't race a lot, if at all really, but I would like to know the power is there, as well as look good as well as the cornering all to some degree are better than most cars out there, granted the Z is a great car to start from, but I want all the performance to be there without sacrificing things such as rims, body kit, and some sound........ When the time comes im just going to buy a Track model strictly for racing, then it will be gutted and made strictly for the track..... But until then I would like to build an all around car......

As for the sub... I don't listen to RAP, I listen to Rock and I barely listen to it at all anyways, I listen tot he motor 90% of the time, I love it, the intake plenum and exhaust combo is the best sounding I have ever heard.... and it's getting better with time too..

PS I agree on the practice thing, but I don't want to sit there all day and practice my launches (that's what im horrible at) due to the fact that it's REALLY BAD for the car, Im not in it to break my car, just to know that I have the sped and occasionally open it up on the highway and be nailed to the seat. It's close to that now, but I think SC is my best bet....

Thanks guys....

Phatmitzu

iTrader: (34)

Yes. With my mods and a flat 13:1 A/F, I dynoed 240 to the rear wheel. While a "STOCK" track Z dynoed 245.

19" wheels/tires does makes a big difference. Swap back to your stockers and run it for a couple of blocks, you will feel the difference.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

it's all about the ECU's mood.....

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

Im thinking about a final drive and flywheel, but will that screw me when I get the SC, I mean will my gearing run out way too soon and leave me shifting ever 2 seconds?

The final drive sounds like a good mod, but it's hella expensive......

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

OR should I just go ahead and get the ECU reflashed with the mods I have now and just leave it at that till the SC? But the the Vortech SC is set up for stock ECU... Will that screw up the A/F and the way that the fuel management is set up on the Vortech... I want to bolt the kit on and leave it since it comes tuned out of the box.... granted it will still need some tuneing, but with the ECU reflash screw that up, and or can i just get it reflashed after the SC..... I want to run SAFE, and rumors are if the Vortech is installed and left alone (ie. 7.5 LB) pully it will run great and have no problems... These are all things I need to think about and would appreciate the input on...

UnderPressure

iTrader: (4)

Quit being in such a rush to spend more money.

Go to a dragstrip on a test & tune night. 1/8mile is actually better than 1/4 for this experiment. Get their early and get as many runs in as you can. Your car is not making enough power or has enough traction to break anything on the vehicle. Practice launching @ different rpm levels. Maybe first run start @2500rpm. Then start working upwards. Your first launch @2500rpm the car will bog. Expect it to. As you slowly work you way upwards thru the rpm range the car will respond to the differnt launch rpm. Your 60 ft times will go down. Eventually your 60ft times will start to get worse. @ this point you have gone beyond your optimum launch rpm. Back the lauch rpm down to where the car was fastest. I bet you will pickup @ least 0.3 sec on your 60 ft using this metheod. That 0.3sec off your 60ft is going to translate into ~0.5-0.6sec in the 1/4 mile.

So here you have spent ~$25 and a couple of hours time to make your car faster than all of your mods to date.

Let us know how it turns out.

FritzMan

I think you're asking why the car's slow and not why you're slow eh?

If so, practise is not really the issue here because you're using yourself as a baseline to measure you're car's gains.

Sometimes gained throttle response is as good as a HP gain. I'll bet your setup (without the 19" rims) would feel a lot more responsive than a stock car.

Yes, the 19" rims make a big difference. Your upgraded sound system sounds heavy - regardless of what tunes you're listening to. Our cars are already porty as is, the last thing they need is more weight.

Which leads me to the next point, if you're looking for fast 1/4 mile times the 350z will never blow you away while close to OEM spec. It's a great all round GT (grand touring) package, nothing more. If you really want to have impressive 1/4 mile times buy a Mustang and spend a lot less on mods.

Having said that, if you're looking for a little more throttle response and power, you'll certainly feel the benefit of a flywheel & pulley, and apparently the underdrive is good to. After that, the ROI diminishes with additional mods. Cams are apparently nice but the installation labour makes it a lousy bang for the buck.

cvt

iTrader: (1)

i agree with evryone else that practice makes perfect. i used to own a celica and in the celica boards people who drove their stock gt-s got 15.4 at the 1/4. but people who were very good at landing at the optimum power band (lift) got times around 14.9...that's a huge difference, these were two celicas with no mods and same track and same night. and all that separated them were practice.

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

I see what your all saying, but my complaint is not in my quarter mile times, like I said I do not run at the track often and do not disire to run at the track... I could car less about my quarter mile times, I was just using that as an example. Like said above if I wanted 1/4 mile times I would have gotten a Mustang or Camaro... I want throttle responce and power, therefore I think I will go with a lightened flywheel for now, and when the time comes I will look into FI.

I just want an all around good car hitting all of the tuneing aspects from body work to more power... and that is what I plan to build, just getting ideas on what mods will be good for more gains. Flywheel sounds good and I think i'll hold off on the pullys due to the fact that I will be going SC here someday..... I think I made a mistake in mentioning quarter mile time and launching. What I really want is to hit the gas in 2nd or 3rd gear and just feel power, along with being able to hit corners at good speeds and be just as stable as a slight bend in the road, and on top of that I want to look good. I got the look good mods covered as of now.... Now im just starting on the motor... Thanks again...

Landbarger

iTrader: (2)

Since someone (probably much wiser than I) mentioned that a crank pulley is no good...why can't you use a lightened pulley that isn't underdrive (KJR Perf) on a car w/ a SC? If they pulley is the same dimension, it seems like there'd be no problem. Not trying to correct anyone, just asking. Thanks. (and sorry to highjack, but you might could use this too)

UnderPressure

iTrader: (4)

Best bang for the buck, N20.

Under $1k installed and 100hp @ the wheels.

ReavTek

iTrader: (1)

If you want to be bling with a little zing (lol sorry guys) I would strongly suggest a 3.9 Final Drive, Lightened Flywheel, Grippier tires, Cams and bolt ons. You should have a very fun to drive Z that won't be scary in the rain (400HP ST) or a #$^^ to keep maintained.

MyV6IsFast3r

iTrader: (38)

See I have thought about N2O, but it runs out, seems like a ***** to keep working right, and all that other crap. A few people I know with the Vortec SC say that if installed and not messed with it will run for a long time, I think one has 15K on with the SC and another has like 25K and no problems at all, granted the boost or FMU is not messed with.

This seems to be a lot of money to dump for about the same price as a SC, and the Sc would probably yield a bit more power....
Correct me if im wrong but the SC would probably be a bit wiser to go with then to get into traring apart the top in for cams, and the tranny for the final drive gear.