Anyone NOT happy with 3.9 final drive on a N/A car?
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Anyone NOT happy with 3.9 final drive on a N/A car?
I'm considering this mod, as I'd like to have better accelration. My car is a daily driver; just looking to have bit more fun with it. I don't care about track times etc.
The final drive would be the only mod, aside from Nismo sway bars.
I've heard pleny of good feedback on the final drive... anybody NOT happy with it on their daily driver N/A car?
Thanks,
Mika
The final drive would be the only mod, aside from Nismo sway bars.
I've heard pleny of good feedback on the final drive... anybody NOT happy with it on their daily driver N/A car?
Thanks,
Mika
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Why? Because people love it, or...?
Originally Posted by sentry65
I think it's going to be so quiet you're going to hear a pin drop on this question.....
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What should one look for in a good installer?
Would someone who specializes in differential rebuilding be a good choice?
There are some shops around here, but they mainly serve the 4x4 community....
Mika
Would someone who specializes in differential rebuilding be a good choice?
There are some shops around here, but they mainly serve the 4x4 community....
Mika
Originally Posted by zillinois
Ping.
That's the sound of satisifed customers. ;-) There is really no downside to this mod, unless your after gas mileage. The car feels like OEM, but it pulls harder. The key to this mod, is finding a good installer. That will determine if you like it or not.
That's the sound of satisifed customers. ;-) There is really no downside to this mod, unless your after gas mileage. The car feels like OEM, but it pulls harder. The key to this mod, is finding a good installer. That will determine if you like it or not.
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well, I'll chime in - I am happy with it as a mod, but not as a value for dollar. Maybe I am jaded by the other cars I have, or by the other cars we cater too, but the high price tag + install price (around $400-$500) + the need for shim sizes that are not immediately known till you break it all open (and thus risk a backorder as I did), make this a mod that is very low on the bang for the buck meter IMHO. That being said, I did it because it is in perfect keeping with the NA car I am building. However, as a value per dollar, I could have done without it
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well, there are tons of things that dont have a huge value per dollar....in fact, most every mod I have done qualify, since they have all been top dollar purchases (since I like the rare stuff). Value for dollar, there is no doubt forced induction is where it's at. NA is zigging where others zag, which is what I'm all about in any car I tend to build
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
well, I'll chime in - I am happy with it as a mod, but not as a value for dollar. Maybe I am jaded by the other cars I have, or by the other cars we cater too, but the high price tag + install price (around $400-$500) + the need for shim sizes that are not immediately known till you break it all open (and thus risk a backorder as I did), make this a mod that is very low on the bang for the buck meter IMHO. That being said, I did it because it is in perfect keeping with the NA car I am building. However, as a value per dollar, I could have done without it
3.9FD is the one of the only NA mods worth the money IMHO.
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Originally Posted by ZXiMan
Only down side is that on average, I lost approximately 1.5 to 2 mpg...
Was it worth it??? Most DEFINATELY....
Was it worth it??? Most DEFINATELY....
but most people cant handle it it seems...
:-/
#19
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I think I'd like the 3.9 if 6th gear was a real overdrive. I'd like to see 80 mph at 2.6-2.8k rpm. Not going to happen with the current set up (or stock even). Probably great between 2nd and 3rd but, if your Z is a daily driver and you're on the freeway, you want lower revs and some gas saved when you're not going ***** to the wall.
#20
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I look at it this way:
I spend around $150/month a gas and drive about 800 miles a month
getting the 3.9 is costing me $10-15 a month
I spend $8 a day on lunch....
now if 6th gear WAS a "true" overdrive gear (it is, you can look at the gearing curve and the gear ratio itself prove it is), you'd be complaining that your exhaust is droning at 2600-2800rpm because at that rpm, it's a little boomy compared to 3300 where it starts to focus it's sound, lose the booming drone and become more pleasing to the ear
it's nice to not have to downshift to 5th gear to pass with the 3.9.
6th gear becomes a more useful gear when passing on the highway
The tilton clutch would be my #2 pick for NA mods. The 3.9 FD being #1
Also, for us tilton owners, we all dread going below 2500 rpms because of the shuttering noise. If 6th gear leaves you at 2600-2800 rpm, it would only take a little bit of slow down to get into that noisy rpm range. It'd drive you nuts...
Also, all the gears would be very linear and predictable, until you got to 6th gear. Downshifting from 6th to 5th would be a tremendous jump. You're no longer talking 2000 rpm jump, you're talking about almost 3000 rpm jump - which is fine I guess (make sure to rev match obviously) but it's just not as predictable since all the other gears will have a 2000 rpm difference
I spend around $150/month a gas and drive about 800 miles a month
getting the 3.9 is costing me $10-15 a month
I spend $8 a day on lunch....
now if 6th gear WAS a "true" overdrive gear (it is, you can look at the gearing curve and the gear ratio itself prove it is), you'd be complaining that your exhaust is droning at 2600-2800rpm because at that rpm, it's a little boomy compared to 3300 where it starts to focus it's sound, lose the booming drone and become more pleasing to the ear
it's nice to not have to downshift to 5th gear to pass with the 3.9.
6th gear becomes a more useful gear when passing on the highway
The tilton clutch would be my #2 pick for NA mods. The 3.9 FD being #1
Also, for us tilton owners, we all dread going below 2500 rpms because of the shuttering noise. If 6th gear leaves you at 2600-2800 rpm, it would only take a little bit of slow down to get into that noisy rpm range. It'd drive you nuts...
Also, all the gears would be very linear and predictable, until you got to 6th gear. Downshifting from 6th to 5th would be a tremendous jump. You're no longer talking 2000 rpm jump, you're talking about almost 3000 rpm jump - which is fine I guess (make sure to rev match obviously) but it's just not as predictable since all the other gears will have a 2000 rpm difference
Last edited by sentry65; 08-07-2005 at 10:40 PM.