leemik

iTrader: (2)

I bought the fuel system back in May/June but I finally had it installed a few days ago. Thanks to Sharif and Ben at AAM for their assistance in buying and helping my installer put the kit in when they required some technical assistance (with the emanage).. I also got a set of RC440 injectors (from Gman2004)

The car is not tuned yet but it feels great.. seems to ride smoother than before and idle better... I have a procharger and really happy to be rid of the stock inline pump and DFMU...

There were just a few slight problems encountered.. I was sent 2 passenger side rails by mistake but was overnighted a new set of rails by AAM.. kudos to Dave at AAM for the quick response.. When the kit was installed, there was also a slight leak at the fuel pump assembly from fuel sloshing around.. We think it might be the Nissan "O" ring gasket that was supplied.. it looks like it's slightly too big? or might have expanded from the fuel? the assembly was reseated and epoxy was put down around the fittings.. I'll have to keep an eye (or a nose) on it and get a new gasket from Nissan if it continues:



No more inline pump! so much room now !!!


The Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator..


close up of the FPR


close up of the fuel lines behind the plenum.. you can see where it connects to one of the billet aluminum fuel rails on top of the picture


overall shot of the motor:




--mike

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Wow...looks GREAT! The fuel leak, as you mentioned, is likely a result of an expanded fuel pump housing O-Ring. It is very common for them to expand once they are exposed to fuel, and the pressure of the fuel pump assembly is released.

I have a few extra if you need one, and cant find it locally. Just shoot me an email or PM.

leemik

iTrader: (2)

Hey thanks Sharif... I have a question..

When starting the car with this fuel system, is it normal for the motor to not turn over on the first crank sometimes? Or does that mean the fuel pressure is set too low?

thanks,
--mike

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

You have a beautiful Car. Very Nicely done. Engine and car. I have seen so may awesome red Z's I want one

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Hi Mike, oftentimes, with return fuel systems, the car has a little trouble starting when warm. Depending on your application, you should try reducing your fuel pressure, as the hard start issue when warm is a result of being too rich. At cold start, you need a rich mixture, so the car starts just fine.

For 500whp or less, and 550cc injectors, I can get away with 38psi of fuel pressure (with the vaccum line attached), and the car "usually" starts right up.

The second best solution is to give it some throttle when you crank it...fires right up every time.

leemik

iTrader: (2)

Ahhh.. great information.. I did not know that.. I believe the fuel pressure is set at 40psi right now.. The starting is not bad at all.. if it doesn't start on the first crank it always starts on the second.. and you are right, the problem only manifests itself when the car is restarted while still warm. I can live with this..

I need to get this eManage tuned ASAP.. I'm seeing about 10mpg right now so the cylinders must be getting absolutely drenched with fuel.. (luckily I don't drive my car much)

--mike

booger

iTrader: (6)

Mike...After my rebuild and trying to scale in my 550 injectors . I ran the car for a while running real rich . Ruined my 02 sensor for my wide band real quick . It only took a few hundred miles to go bad .

leemik

iTrader: (2)

haha thanks.. something else to look forward to.. I think I'll buy a new 02 sensor now for my A/F gauge and replace it when I do my dyno..

anyone know what year and type Volvo 02 sensor the AEM UEGO wideband uses? I'm looking here ( http://www.oxygensensors.com ) but there's like a zillion of them

--mike

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

booger,

how do you know if the o2 sensor goes bad?

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

looks great leemik....congrats!

booger

iTrader: (6)

When my wideband 02 sensor started to go bad , it would read ok until it got about 12.5 to 1 and then would got off the gauge rich and go blank

Sins4u33

iTrader: (4)

looks good leemik! glad you like it, very nice system i must say, love your setup btw

Ben Y

leemik

iTrader: (2)

Drove the car to work today(unusual).. hit a little bumper-to-bumper traffic on the way home.. car felt like it wanted to stall at idle--then it stalled.. strong odor of fuel..... Go to start it up.. 2 cranks and it starts .. but now it runs rough at idle.. like one cylinder is misfiring.. hmmmm ... O2 gauge says full rich at idle... hmmmm..definately not normal.. is my wideband O2 sensor finally toast? power is down a little and the car backfires... I manage to get it home slowly.. I smell burning oil now too

Oil pressure looks normal.. BUT fuel pressure is very high .. normally 40psi.. now 70psi at idle??? lift hood at home.. see fresh oil stains coming from the front most spark plug on passenger side.... My guess would be the plug must be fouled or something????.. but why the oil coming out???? hope it's not the rings..

everyone say a prayer LOL

So what could have happened? any guesses? could abnormally high fuel pressure caused this? I've been staying off boost for the most part since the fuel system went in.. never had the car above 4000 rpm..

--mike

Badmonkey

iTrader: (9)

Have you tried an ecu reset? What does your fuel pressure do when you give it gas? Does it drop into the high 40's or 50's? How much gas is in the tank? I had a similar problem when my fuel level got low. I had to take the fuel pump assembly out and tighten the hose clamps and re-seat the fuel pump. I couldn't find anything obvious, but it worked. I suspect that i was injesting air into my lines through a bad seal somewhere.

The oil might be coming through the valve cover. I had blowby because my vacuum line from my plenum was pressurizing my PCV valve. I re-routed my pcv line to an oil catch can, no problems now.

leemik

iTrader: (2)

The car currently sits between 1/2 and 1/4 tank of gas..

I haven't tried an ECU reset but I can't imagine that would help?

I already have an oil catch can for the same reason as you..The PCV hose got blocked once on me and oil was oozing out everywhere.. emptied it last night.. seems fine..

Now I'm thinking the abnormally high fuel pressure may be what's causing all this? I assume if it's dumping a ton of fuel in that the idle would be bad.. and cause the backfiring as well (from all that unburnt fuel?).. but could high fuel pressure cause oil to ooze out of the crankcase too?

Could it be a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator? Are there any reports of this from the AAM kit?

thanks for the reply,
--mike

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

I am sure AAM will chime in, but I havent heard of any reports of this. You might want to inspect the fuel pressure regulator plug, and insure its properly seated, and nothing has worked its way loose. How does your siphon correction kit look? Everything properly buttoned up?

leemik

iTrader: (2)

everything looks tight to me.. all the fittings vacuum lines and the FPR looks very secure.. I can see no leaks anywhere..

I assume the siphon correction kit is working ok.. last fill up I ran the tank almost down to fumes just too see if I had any problems and there were none. The pump housing was partially pulled out to fix the o ring leak and the return line fitting on the top was epoxied all around just in case it leaked.. that was over a week ago..

badmonkey: what exactly happened when you had air in your fuel line? did you car sound like a subaru? LOL were you backfiring and blowing oil out your crankcase?

I have no CEL lights on..

--mike

Badmonkey

iTrader: (9)

When I had my problems, it seemed like I was running out of gas. It would sputter, then go, then sputter some more. It then would quit running all together until I put more gas in. I was getting this at about 1/4 tank of gas.

Can your fuel pressure be adjusted? Or does it just stay where it is if you try to adjust it? There might be something restricting the siphon jet. If it gets something clogged in there the fuel has nowhere to go, hence the high pressure. Does the pressure drop when you give it gas? If it does drop significantly, I would focus on the correction kit.

agrabau

Hi Guys,

It's Alex Grabau from Dent Sport. I'm sorry to swoop in like this but I thought that the collective information here would be nice. Mike brought his car by tonight for us to look at the above problem.

The fuel pressure is in fact at 70 psi at idle. We removed the FPR to inspect it and it turns out that the diaphragm is broken and fuel was seeping into the upper bank of the FPR and into the vacuum hose. Hello misfire. The pressure is possibly the cause, possibly the result of the bad FPR. That's what we're trying to figure out. Someone mentioned a syphon earlier. From what I understand, the syphon "pump?" is run by the returned fuel through the surge tank. Is that true?

I know that the fuel is returned to the tank into the surge tank, not into the main reservoir of fuel. I think that the reason is not only to keep the surge tank fuel but to keep the syphon effect in play. Is this assumption true?


What I'd also like to know to help my diagnosis is how the kitmaker decided on -4 return line. For huge power cars wherin the fuel is consumed in greater amounts than this car the -4 is sufficient in this case, -6 seems like a better fit as it would lower the return pressure significantly. Consider not only the ID of the hose but the serious and numerous bends that it has to make to get back to the surge tank.

We design a kit for the IS300. it was the first one made for this car of quality. This is why I consider this stuff.

Another thing aside from the line diameter is the O ring on the machined ALU piece that goes in place of the factory FPR I wonder what the bore is on that. I also wonder what happens if the O ring is bad. It looks like this one is disintegrating and if it went bad I would assume a pressure drop and not an increase.

We ran the fuel return from the motor, through my SARD regulator and into a bucket and we could control the fuel pressure no problem.

We checked the AN-4 line for obstructions (possibly a piece of the diaphragm) but no..

Any suggestions at this point? I'd like to re do this with a Sard regulator, -6 line and make some changes.

Sincerely, "the noob"

Alex Grabau
dentsport.com

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Hey Alex, if the FPR is defective, AAM will send you a new one...no problem.

The current AAM system has been tested to 622whp on my personal car, and I have very steady pressure and plenty of fuel...even through 550cc injectors and just one Walbro 255 pump. I think you will find the current system will easily support 700whp and beyond.

Hope that helps!