Auto vs 6MT pumpkins
Originally Posted by meatbag
Are the differential housings from the auto and 6MT exactly the same? So the difference is the stub axles?
Ok, thats what i wanted to know for sure. After talking to Quaife it looks like if i use the auto's 3.3 gears with open diff stub axles it should fit just fine. I was planning on running the 3.3 gears anyways so hopefully this will work out.
Does anyone know the part numbers for the 3.3 gears? From looking at the service manual there are two different sets of 3.3 gears, one for the 5at base model open diff and one set for the 5AT with the sport package that uncluded the VLSD.
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I know this is OT, but what kind of benefits can be found in switching a 6mt for a 5at?
I have a local buddy who had a 5at G35 that he tracks quite a bit, and I have a TT 6mt that I do highway runs with. Am I right in thinking that it would benefit us both to swap them out?
Thanks!
I have a local buddy who had a 5at G35 that he tracks quite a bit, and I have a TT 6mt that I do highway runs with. Am I right in thinking that it would benefit us both to swap them out?
Thanks!
If you switched to the 3.3 FD taller gear, you would be able to make more use of your lower gears since you have TT. I think you would even gain a potentially higher max speed since your not reaching redline as fast. For your friend, he would have a closer ratio 3.5 FD which is good for the track since he'll accelerate quicker. He'll lose a little bit on the max speed limit since he's hitting redline sooner but probably doesn't matter unless he hits 150+ on a regular basis.
Originally Posted by dklau33
If you switched to the 3.3 FD taller gear, you would be able to make more use of your lower gears since you have TT. I think you would even gain a potentially higher max speed since your not reaching redline as fast. For your friend, he would have a closer ratio 3.5 FD which is good for the track since he'll accelerate quicker. He'll lose a little bit on the max speed limit since he's hitting redline sooner but probably doesn't matter unless he hits 150+ on a regular basis.
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Its $1251.46 for a completely new final drive assembly with 3.5 final drive gear and VLSD...
Add shipping of course if you are located far from us...
New parts will cost you about $500 plus install just for the Final Drive gearing... You will also have to get a new VLSD since the one out of the AT pumpkin will not work...
It is almost less expensive to get a completely new final drive assembly (and this way labor will only be about $160
The other option is search junk yards... but then you dont know what kind of abuse the junk yard rear end will have...
Add shipping of course if you are located far from us...
New parts will cost you about $500 plus install just for the Final Drive gearing... You will also have to get a new VLSD since the one out of the AT pumpkin will not work...
It is almost less expensive to get a completely new final drive assembly (and this way labor will only be about $160
The other option is search junk yards... but then you dont know what kind of abuse the junk yard rear end will have...
How much for the assembly with a 3.3 final drive? I just looked up the specs of the G35 and found that ONLY the 6mts have the LSD in them, so its looking like I'm going to just stick with my stock pumpkin.
Originally Posted by KPierson
How much for the assembly with a 3.3 final drive? I just looked up the specs of the G35 and found that ONLY the 6mts have the LSD in them, so its looking like I'm going to just stick with my stock pumpkin.
www.car-part.com search under "carrier"
There are a few for $275-350 for complete locking rear 5at differentials.
Last edited by g356gear; Sep 20, 2005 at 02:10 PM.


