exactly (to both of the things you said)

 

wait....

you are a 16 year old with a Z3? do you know what a boost spike feels like from a 400Hp sr20det silvia? a boost spike is a big deal especally when you vehicle is dynamic. during your green light spurts to the speed limit and even the quarter mile, your car is under relatively mild forces and virtually no lateral dynamic. introduce a turn and everything changes. you may be able to correct for your loss of tration most of the time but sometimes you wont, then what?

read any review for the older z32, the NA was preferred by almost everyone over the TT because it was predictable.

if you are talking about motorsports, IRL mind as well be NASCAR and WRC, while very cool , is hardly roadracing. THERE ARNT MANY ROADS! the technique to racing events like rallye and even Japanese drifting competitons is to get the car to oversteer. lack of traction allows a certian amount of forgiveness. i will let them do it, i prefer not to be sliding back and forth.

 

lets squash this.

it seems thats too many people take little things like this thread personally. i dont mean to offend anyone personally, and i take back that Z3 comment steve. dont be mad.

my point was merely that the z33 was built to be a sweet road car... be careful what you do to yours. peace.

 

Ditto, to many people taking things personally. It's a message board.

 

Don't worry, I'm not offended by anyhting in this thread. Yeah I realize I drive a Z3, and yes (sigh) it is an overpowered miata, but its still fun, and I did learn the dynamics of a real wheel drive car. Not to mention, you didn't really attack the Z3 anywase. But my Z33 will be here in a month so I'll be moving up a bit.
One thing though, with good hardware how often are those boost spikes going to occur? Probaly not that often. And about those drivers that perfer the N/A z32 versus the Z32 TT, I wonder who set the quicker lap time...

 

I would take 400 N/A hp over 400 boosted HP ANY day, for any apllication. The only problem is it isn't as easily done, or as simple as a SC or turbo, or N20. As for SC's, Centerfugal ones are a great combination of reliability, and low temp, and high hp. Roots style super chargerscan get REALLY hot, BUT, they can produce ALOT of hp and even more so, big Torque, which is mostly flat accross the power band. Turbo's...Lag, heat, but reliability and MASSIVE peak hp numbers. N20= TQ!!! defenetly best suited for drag racing, and for good reason. It all depends on the application, and what you are looking for in your car.

 

I purchased the Downing Atlanta Supercharger for my Z3.

All that I really wanted was more zip in my day to day driveability.

The great thing about the supercharger in my setup is that it added 80hp.

Dyno tested the torque I used to get at 4800rpms I now get at 2400 RPMs

This is great because when the red light turns green my car is off and going rather effortlessly and quiet.

Before to get the same results would have resulted in a rather high RPM rev which just calls attention to my car and made me look like I was trying to race people.

I am happy with the supercharer setup because it is a low maintenance setup and I installed it myself. Makes daily drivability more pleasurable cause I dont make alot of noise but just in case someone wants to race I just rev it up to 4200MPS drop the clutch and KAZAAM.

I am looking to get into a 350z for the 6speed.

Or maybe a Z4 for the 6speed (which I like the looks of even though alot don't) but the 350z for almost $20,000 less then the Z4 would leave room for alot o mods.

 

I have a 50 shot of NOS going in next week. The turbos are in the planning stages. Ill keep you posted on the NOS and hopefully some pics..

 

What kit are you going with and where are you going to put the bottle?

I have some ideas for a 75 shot wet kit from NX with the bottle mounted underneath the STB. 600 bucks.

I would mount my switches in the open NAV area I am not using.
If I go Nitrous this time it will include a remote bottle opener and purge. If your gonna do it do it right I say. Probably have 3 0r 4 switches.

WOT,ON/Warmer/Purge/Opener.... 4 switches.

My sub box takes up the space before the STB and I need the area behind the STB for work gear.

Comments?

 

MaxHax

Going NOS 50 Shot and will move up from there. I will have a Purge valve, Bottle Warmer, Bottle Opener and Guage . I havent decided on where we are gonna put the Bottle. But as for the buttons, only 3, arm/ Purge/ and bottle opener in the ashtray ( or where the ashtray is). The WOT switch is most likely gonna be custom under the pedal...As for the Gauge, i want to use the NAV cubby also..I plan to add other gauges in the future...
Anyway..Let me know what you think

Mike

 

Thanks for the info,

I had a friend add a 50 shot to his V6 (not a Z) and he wasn't impressed, in fact he was disapointed. He added the 75 HP jets and was like WOO Hoo!

It seems like that extra 25 HP really makes a difference. I think the engine would be fine with a 75 shot.

Are you going wet or dry and what brand?

I am seriuosly considering this. It only stresses the engine when you use it, FI is always on.

Cost for me will be about 1k for everything. Are you going to add a blow down tube? If so is there a spot for it? It's a NHRA must if you drag.

I just started leaning this way recently so I haven't done much research.

I'm gonna run a purge line up in front of the windshield though.

It rocks to be sitting at a light bext to someone and purge NO2 up in front of your car!

HISSSSSSS!



Edit add, just saw the "NOS" do you have a part number and is it for our Z's?

 

What kind of kit are you going with 2003z33? You mentioned a jet so i assume you are getting a single Y jet to be installed in the intake pipe? I'm going to a pro shop on saturday and they are specing out a direct port system for me. I can let you know what they say, you might want to go that route instead. Direct port is a lot safer, more consistent, and requires less nitrous for the same power.

 

Plus you can use a CAI too correct?

 

Yes I agree. Did you get a price for direct port? I am currently in the planning stages for twin turbos. We will be using the skylines Intercooler and I believe HKS Wastegate and BlowOffValves. Im not going to go all the way with the nitrous at this time. For now we will squeeze at the TB (WET) with a 50 or 75 shot. Mostlikely the NOS will be relocated to cool the intercoooler. We are hoping to be done by May or June. Our shop will have a booth at the import show in VA BCH in June. So, if everything goes well then the Z should be there along with the Honda Civic that boosts @ 28PSI. We will see.

 

I dont have the KIT Number but I know we will be dealing with NOS. We would have gone with NX but our prices are better with NOS.

 

NOS cause it causes no more wear and tear than boost when running it and you have the power to completely turn it off and cause NO waer and tear (outside of norm) for DD, with a remote bottle opener you are set for street light encounters.

Other observations
Turbos gett hotter than SC'c always, dosent make them less reliable!

Turbos are very consistent in spool barring a leaky waste gate or BOV, i have a freind with a 425WHP MKIV and he never had boost spike running 18PSI

the diference in power between a turbo and a SC can eb very neglidgable is you pick = psi and = cfm especially because exit temps from a SC are normally much lower, although it does take tq to turn the blower

do not forget that a turbine stlye sc Vs. a positive displacement changes the way the car reacts with SC as well

NOS can make just as much power as any other form of FI if not MORE and more safely, NOS actually cools the intake stream reducing potential knock...... goodness jucie rules

Ben

 

They didn't make a twin turbo in 1999, they ceased production of the 993 TT in 97' and did not produce the 996 TT until 2001. Also there are currently only 2 SC kits for the 996/911 one is By Design and retails for $17K installed (not designed for the 02' and up 3.6 L), the other has not been released is by TPC and will be $10K. Because of the M96 engine block design there has been massive problems with supercharging/turbocharging 911 cars (not named TT, GT2, or GT3). Unless you are driving a previous 993 or older version there really isn't a way to SC/TC the 911.

 

There are others besides those two you mention Fanman. The one that comes to mind as being somewhat reputable is Supercharging of Knoxville. They have supercharger setups for multiple generations of the 911 and its engine variants, but I think most of their stuff is for the 964 and previous gens.


Now, as far as the "predictability" of turbocharged power...if everything is working properly I would not say it is unpredictable. That said, I'd still choose NA power over equal FI power because it is almost always more driveable . What I mean by that is it's easier to turn consistently fast laps with the NA setup. I've had seat time with both NA and FI on track/autocross, and that's just my experience with it. When the power curve is peaky, as it often is with FI, it is harder to fully utilize that power consistently.

Oh, and my vote for making fairly substantial power in my 350z goes to centrifugal supercharger. Its too hard to make the power I'd like to have while staying NA on this motor. And I feel that the SC setup is a little simpler, a little more reliable than than a turbo setup.

 

Previous Porsche gens are more "acceptable" to heavy mods. The 996 has pretty much reached the engine's max. potential (3.6 L) there is a rumor that 3.8 is about it for the flat 6. I have never heard of the outfit you mentioned (though I am on the west coast). They aren't in any major Porsche publications. The 996 is based on the M96 engine not the GT1 (as the TT, GT3, GT2) those can handle 800+ hp. The regular 911 engine maxes out at about 350 hp, and many of the outfits trying to SC/TC the engine have been blowing engines. Their are outfits that TC regular 911's to 500-520 hp but that requires new rod, pistons, block strengthening, etc. that cost about $40K-$50K for about 520 hp. Let's hope the 350Z has a more robust engine that can handle the SC or TT setup without major modifications.