Please, don't wait for this to happen...
And I'm NA...

 

What about use FI guys I would be pretty much F$$$ED right? Only option I have is get a new block and build a new motor? Not saying thats a bad thing because I been looking for a reson LOL

 

How did that happen?

 

I own a ‘04 350z. This is the 2nd Z I’ve owned. When I had the '03 I had to be checking the oil level because the engine consumed oil all the time, I wrecked the 03 and when I got my 04, the same thing happen, the engine consumed oil too, so I figured that it was "normal". After 27k and an oil change that consisted in MOTUL's finest oil, my car developed a loud "tacka, tacka, tacka" that increased as rev's got up. This was after a 130mph run with another 350z. The oil pressure was normal, but the noise was infernal. I was pissed as hell, it was 11pm and I just went home. The next day, started the engine, it made the noise again so I just drove the car to the dealership. When the car was about 1 mile from the service dealership, "BLOOM, clank, clank, clank" the rod came out to say hello.
The cause? Oil starvation. It seems that the MOTUL oil as it gets a little old (2700 miles) it gets thinner, and it didn't supply enough lubrication to my engine. If it where Mobil 1 for example, maybe it wouldn’t happen, anyway the oil level was very low. As the guys opened up the engine, they found that one of the rods where loose and a piston broke. They told me that it happened because of the OEM rod bolts where crap, they stretch very easily.
Had the engine replaced under warranty, and all my parts where installed back, headers, cams, pulley, etc. with the addition of JWT cam springs, JWT oil pan spacer, and ARP rod bolts. When the guys where installing the ARP bolts, they told me that the OEM ones in the NEW ENGINE where almost LOOSE!!! they told me that OEM bolts are so fragile that if you over torque them, you have to put new ones because they stretch.
After reading this thread, it makes sense about the oil consuming engines.
This is the NEW engine with ALL the go fast goodies I had previously:

 

What mods do you have on your car? Cause when I had me SC the exact same thing happened to me, my last oil change prior to my motor pull I got like 1.5 Qts out When I did eventially get arount to disassembling that motor I descovered that a piece of piston was missing but the ringland was still intact.This was obviously causing oil consumption as a result..Not to scare you but running that low on oil usually causes problems or is the direct cause of an existing problem. We have Paranormal aka Jimmy's car in our shop who ran 3 Qts low ans spun a rod bearing and thrashed his crank shaft also..Oil is a really crucial part of the engine..



WWW.RACEMRC.COM
For your 350z/G35 performance needs.
Authorized Turbo XS UTEC distributors
Authorized Dyno Dynamics load based tunning facility comming 3/06!!
Authorized Greddy Dealer/Installer
Authorized GTSPEC dealer
Authorized Unlimited Tuning Revolution dealer
Authorized Speed Force Racing Dealer


Email: Sales@racemrc.com
AIM: salesmrc
Phone: 732-251-8200
Mobile: 732-558-4560
MRC MOTORSPORTS
116 Main St.
Spotswood NJ 08884

 

checking the oil level right after you drive it will not give you an accurate reading as the oil is still.. technically all over the place.. my guess is that it was already low and then after you let it sit all the oil drained to the bottom and thats when you saw how much oil you really had in the car.

you said boost? care to give me a ride? i am still trying to decide if i should go boost or hold off on it (save money) and just do a few NA parts for now, and wait a year or two before going boost.

 

You would think with all of this technology a man could get an oil-level guage..

 

Good luck with everything I dont think it will be an easy fix. My last car-same thing happened I drained 2 quarts when it shoulda been 4, not 5 like our Z's. One week later it spun a rod bearing, the damage had been done....

 

I'm NA as well and starting to wonder if I have the oil consumption problem in my engine. I am not really driving it this week but am going to try and make it up to the dealership so they can have a look. How can they determine if I do have this oil consumption problem?

 

MRC:
HKS SC, fcon v pro, kenitix plenum ,dc headers, test pips, nismo exhaust, AMM fuel sestem, 440cc injectors.

I am heading to AAM first thing in the mornning for JWT cams and some tuning but looks like my labor bill just went up! its about a 2 hour drive so I will check the oil level before I leave and then when I get there.

Just pray I make it there.

mahont:
when she is fixed anytime bro

 

OT-what are your best dyno #'s with that fcon v pro? Good luck let us know how everything goes...

 

I will post some after this is over. I cant remember my last one its been so long.

Do you guys think with these mods this is something nissan would cover? I mean its not like I am the only car burning oil EAsy to see its a problem even with NA Z's

 

What are you expecting the cams will do for you..Interested in pre and post cam dyno #'s if you get them . Also considering cams..Thanks

 

Toby, unfortunately I think Nissan can make a pretty strong claim that your "untested" FI is contributing to the possible oil consumption. I could be wrong but I would highly doubt NNA would be willing to get you a new engine with your mods.

"These are isolated incidents and NNA has a fix for all NA engines" would be my guess as to what Nissan would say.

Honestly, if you are looking to get your engine replace under warranty, I would take off every engine modification you have, and find a friendly dealership. You are still going to have to deal with a regional representative, but that would be your best shot. Whatever you do, if you go with those mods, it is very likely they will flag your car for future "warranty repairs".

Good luck though bro, I am going to start watching my oil very carefully now.

 

LOL, might have to put that quote in my sig!

 

the HKS SC drops off about 5k rpm's the JWT cams will give me more top end. Kinda stupid to even worry about them now but there payed for and my motor looks like its coming apart anway so might as well install them

 

Whats the best deal remember I plan on not runing over 400whp

http://store.yahoo.com/sgpracing-store/sgpravqmo.html

 

You dont need a block for under 400whp. Unless you want a nearly bullitproof bottom end. In your case you have cams going in or in so you dont need any additional head work, if you feel like wasting $$$ do a basic short block with 9:1 comp....

 

Thats what I thought.. I want more low end Tq since the s/c Tq is a function of rpm I'm happy up top. Would still like to see your results..Thanks

 

Well I will just see what AAM finds out. pray for the best.