I too am looking at stealthy type mods to enhance, not drastically change the car. From what I've been reading, the MREV2 is a definite, but I will probably only make one other change (Nismo or Injen SS exhaust) and then call it a day. I know the cats are restrictive, but I'm just not prepared to change them at this point. I don't know if it would be worth it to tune/reflash after just three mods.

 

I'm going to do what I set out to do, and not everyone has to agree with it. I won't take back what I said or change my goals until I have completed them.

I am aware of the advantages of the 3.9 FD and that it retains the stock configuration generally speaking. But like I said, I'm still leaving open-ended the possibility of going F/I and that's why I still haven't bought any mods that I would be forced to sell if I do.

Once I finish this project I will open up the possibility of doing other mods.

I just wanted to prove that you can make the majority of HP gains from small, not big, changes. Then lock in the appropriate tune and you're good to go.

Next mod on the list would be a catback exhaust, but that will have to wait.

I know which one I would want for N/A (~$1200) but it is different than the one I would get for F/I. So why should I spend over $1k on something I will have to sell for pennies on the dollar later on?


I disagree. My thinking is actually the most unlimited because I am not buying a bunch of parts that may be unnecessary dollars-per-HP-wise. It is also far from arbitrary. When I first got my 350Z I almost immediately bought a catback exhaust system without thinking. I almost immediately bought a set of 3.9FD gears without thinking. I almost immediately bought a JWT popcharger without thinking.

One year later, I have finally made a decision what I want to do. That, to me, is truly a great feeling.

Buying less and building from there is better than buying a lot and not knowing what you're doing.

 

Wired, I agree with you. What compels you to eventually go F/I?

 

Tag

 

Just get the JWT Popcharger.

 

Hey I love my popcharger!!! I think if I couple it with the MREV2 and a nismo exhaust it will be a very nice performance improvement and I'll be extremely happy until my next car comes along. The only other thing I'm thinking of is lowering the weight. I think wired has a good approach.

 

Prove your mission statement with some numbers at the track as you progress

 

You have a valid point as always. I really should get more into it, it seems like fun.

 

Of course I want more power, and I want to live the experience of taking a car I love and transforming it into a completely different beast.

It's more like something to look forward to when I have the opportunity. While getting a TT kit and slapping it on would be financially feasible, it's just not practical right now. Downtime would be a major nuisance for me at this point, and I have no place for owning a cheap beater to drive in the interim (or in the event of additional repairs or downtime).

I also have a lot of learning to do as far as driving is concerned before I go that way.

Going F/I isn't something I will do in the near future, but I have a strong urge and will most definitely have the means to do it when my living situation permits it.

Final reason for wanting to go F/I: to FINALLY offset the enormous rotational inertia of these behemoth 19" rims Maybe in the next 6 months or so I will consider the LE28N with black face and polished lip... doesn't quite look as sexy as the SF challenge but should be much lighter.

 

Avalon Racing has the Kinetix Y Pipe with 2.25 inlets, and a 2.50 outlet. That will match up perfectly. But i have heard there are fitment issues with this Y Pipe, alot of buzzing and ratteling.

 

Thanks for the info! This may not be too easy of a decision though! If I get a stock-replacement y-pipe it will be worthless if I decide to get a catback exhuast later on down the road.

 

My current modifications are similar to your plan. Some differences are Strup test pipes instead of HFCs, UTEC w/ tuner WB instead of EU (I want to try my hand at tuning on the street and was scared away by the tendency of the Emanages to burn out coil packs). I also purchased a Popcharger, Nismo LSD, and Nismo differential cover.

I kind of had the same thoughts as you with regard to leaving the option open for FI. The Popcharger was only $100 and if I go Turbonetics, the test pipes were only about $180. I haven’t tuned my car yet and I cancelled my order for the MREV because I ordered it last and can tell, already, that I will be unsatisfied by this setup. (I would have cancelled the Popcharger and test pipes too, but I had already ordered and installed them.) I almost ordered some LE28Ns also, but that is a big purchase for me and I decided to save the money for FI.

I think this is a sound plan for mild performance modifications on a budget as it seems that all of these products have a decent power-gain to price ratio and are easy to install.

Personally, I am going to get a Greddy TT kit. I really don’t want to spend thousands of dollars on an aftermarket exhaust (those titanium ones make me feel tingly in my pants, though) so I think I’m going to run some Quick Time Electric Exhaust Cutouts (open exhaust with the flip of a switch).

I really like the whole stealthy but fast thing.

Well, anyway, good luck on your endeavor but I think you may still be unsatisfied. At least you are leaving yourself open for FI.

 

My 350Z Mission Statement is more about what I want the car to do better when I am done with it, than what parts I want to put on it.

Chris

 

You are one of the most prolific and detailed people I have ever met in my life.

Dyno numbers are interesting, but academic. More important than big dyno numbers is what can you do with it? During this project, I would like to see quarter mile times. Horsepower and torque are measures of potential. Put the rubber on the road and post some time slips.

 

Duly noted. I will hit up the drag strip as soon as possible (negative camber and all) so you guys can make fun of me a bit.

I'll estimate given the following parameters: 19", negative camber, noob driver, never been to drag strip before,

the results will be something like

R/T: 1.4
60': 2.8
E/T: 15.5
MPH: 99



P.S. I describe myself as verbose. I simply love to write and have started several novels, then I realized I suck at telling stories.

 

Good luck! I've done similar mods and am very happy with everything. Big gains from not a very big investment.

 

too long to read at this hour.. will read later because i know you bring up some good points and have intelligent thought process based on your previous posts..

subscribed..

 

Did you happen to set some sort of goal date for accomlishing your mission?

I completely agree that many Z owners add mods without the proper research and fail to tune accordingly for those mods and conditions.

I think you will discover that this is going to take a bit more modding than you hoped to get a good jump in power. Of course, I have no idea of what you are shooting for, as what you may consider substantial, may not be very much at all to me.

Regarless, good luck with your project.


.

 

Thanks for your comments.

What is posted above will be done in 3-4 weeks. I'm in the middle of my last quarter with classes in grad school... this summer I will have more time to play.

I have everything, just need time to put it in and get the tune. The EU is in already but I'm running it unmapped/straight-through. The cats are in my living room.

I'm not sure what my Mission Statement: Part 2 will be like yet. But I am planning on getting cipher to monitor everything and do some detailed research. (My mod budget is pretty low right now, so no major changes like exhaust for a while).

Plus I could REALLY use a laptop of my own . I put all my money into my fancy desktop machine because I never used to need a laptop. Now that I need one, of course I lack the funding to get one. I might just "Borrow" one from my lab but the batteries on the lab laptops are pretty shot. I need either a cigarette lighter adapter or a good new battery.

Nobody has posted a detailed analysis of how the stock ECU works, so I *might* make that a mini-goal. Using cipher, I will try to figure out what happens in different driving conditions, when does it decide to advance/pull timing, add/remove fuel, and how to get it into the so-called performance map especially after a reset.

 

NOS =) Biggest power gain, and if you go FI later you just spray over your intercooler. No need to get rid of it =)