UR Pulley question..
07-20-2006, 01:57 AM
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UR Pulley question..
I'm thinking about getting a UR pulley (I have a popcharger, hks td exhaust, and putting on mrev+, 5/16 spacer, and HFC's - is a UR pulley a good next move?), and I wanted to make sure of something. This is the pulley that is popular, correct?
07-20-2006, 05:47 AM
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I have the UR under-drive set - love it! But next time I wouldn't get the set...the crank pulley is all you need. (The other pullies cost more $, don't reduce weight that much, and the Alt pulley is harder to install than the crank!)
-Peter
-Peter
07-20-2006, 06:48 AM
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I have the set and love it as well. It's true you really only need the crank pulley, but if your in there anyways you might as well change em all and just do it all the way.
07-20-2006, 09:12 AM
#5
Only really need the crank pulley as mentioned above... the other 2 pulleys (Power steering pump / Alternator) are both same size and weight as OE...
We have seen up to 8rwhp across the full RPM range with the crank pulley, you will get better engine response as well...
On a turbo car you see even more gains then this...
http://mynismo.com/products/?id=4366
We have seen up to 8rwhp across the full RPM range with the crank pulley, you will get better engine response as well...
On a turbo car you see even more gains then this...
http://mynismo.com/products/?id=4366
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07-20-2006, 06:57 PM
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Umm.. a little worried. Sent an email to CalienteAutomotive.com about buying some stuff, one of the things I mentioned was the UR crank pulley.
This was part of his response:
"On the crank pulley I will warn you now, we have had several customers replace their crank pulley with an aftermarket and within weeks experience extreme wabbling of the pulley (I don’t know if that is a word) which ruins the crank seal. In one extreme case a customer had to replace the crank because the key that fits in the crank had so much play it etched out the notch where the key sits. Once that happened the crank was garbage and it cost him $3000 to get back up and running. Long story short I would think long and hard about replacing the crank pulley because the gains are definitely not worth the risk."
Is this true?
This was part of his response:
"On the crank pulley I will warn you now, we have had several customers replace their crank pulley with an aftermarket and within weeks experience extreme wabbling of the pulley (I don’t know if that is a word) which ruins the crank seal. In one extreme case a customer had to replace the crank because the key that fits in the crank had so much play it etched out the notch where the key sits. Once that happened the crank was garbage and it cost him $3000 to get back up and running. Long story short I would think long and hard about replacing the crank pulley because the gains are definitely not worth the risk."
Is this true?
07-20-2006, 11:48 PM
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Hmmm.. but he says that the problem happened to a few different people, and also this thing about this guy having to spend $3000 in repairs..
Scary. How long has everyone had theirs?
Scary. How long has everyone had theirs?
07-21-2006, 05:20 AM
#13
this is not a honda motor...
our crank is internally ballanced without a flywheel or a crank pulley on it...
the factory crank pulley is cast iron which has potential to be more unballanced then the UR pulley's...
Then again, you cant say anything good about a product when the install is done poorly...
I had a UR pulley on my car for 55000 miles and no problems...
our race cars run them... no problems...
our crank is internally ballanced without a flywheel or a crank pulley on it...
the factory crank pulley is cast iron which has potential to be more unballanced then the UR pulley's...
Then again, you cant say anything good about a product when the install is done poorly...
I had a UR pulley on my car for 55000 miles and no problems...
our race cars run them... no problems...
07-21-2006, 06:01 AM
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If you install the crank pulley, just make sure to read the instructions...when you tighten the new crank pulley back on, you go to XX ft-lbs, then you turn it another XXX degrees of rotation. (Sorry, I forget the exact #'s) I wonder how many ppl mess up or forget the 2nd part...if it's not tightened properly, it'd make sense that in a relativley short amount of time it woud start to get loose.
IMO, if it was a problem with the design of the pulley (vibrations, quality...) problems would show up after more than a few weeks. If you're getting failures within a few weeks of the install, my bet is always on the installer (there's always a chance that it was a bad part, but overwhelmingly it's the installer)
IMO, if it was a problem with the design of the pulley (vibrations, quality...) problems would show up after more than a few weeks. If you're getting failures within a few weeks of the install, my bet is always on the installer (there's always a chance that it was a bad part, but overwhelmingly it's the installer)
07-21-2006, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dingobiatch
Umm.. a little worried. Sent an email to CalienteAutomotive.com about buying some stuff, one of the things I mentioned was the UR crank pulley.
This was part of his response:
"On the crank pulley I will warn you now, we have had several customers replace their crank pulley with an aftermarket and within weeks experience extreme wabbling of the pulley (I don’t know if that is a word) which ruins the crank seal. In one extreme case a customer had to replace the crank because the key that fits in the crank had so much play it etched out the notch where the key sits. Once that happened the crank was garbage and it cost him $3000 to get back up and running. Long story short I would think long and hard about replacing the crank pulley because the gains are definitely not worth the risk."
Is this true?
This was part of his response:
"On the crank pulley I will warn you now, we have had several customers replace their crank pulley with an aftermarket and within weeks experience extreme wabbling of the pulley (I don’t know if that is a word) which ruins the crank seal. In one extreme case a customer had to replace the crank because the key that fits in the crank had so much play it etched out the notch where the key sits. Once that happened the crank was garbage and it cost him $3000 to get back up and running. Long story short I would think long and hard about replacing the crank pulley because the gains are definitely not worth the risk."
Is this true?
I have had the pulley for 15K miles with no issues.
07-21-2006, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Nano
That happens because someone is too stupid to read the manual and get the proper torque specs. (it happened to a friend of mine when he removed the stock pulley and did not torque it back properly).
Yes and no. Apparently for a while the UR instructions only included the part about tightening to xx ft/lbs, and didn't mention the additional 60 degree turn. Yes people could have avoided problems by looking at the factory service manual for the correct tq spec, but I know I probably would have just followed the instructions that came with the part. I think UR definitely had their share of the responsibility for the related failures, but I can also tell you that their instructions are corrected now.
07-21-2006, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by first350
If you install the crank pulley, just make sure to read the instructions...when you tighten the new crank pulley back on, you go to XX ft-lbs, then you turn it another XXX degrees of rotation. (Sorry, I forget the exact #'s) I wonder how many ppl mess up or forget the 2nd part...if it's not tightened properly, it'd make sense that in a relativley short amount of time it woud start to get loose.
IMO, if it was a problem with the design of the pulley (vibrations, quality...) problems would show up after more than a few weeks. If you're getting failures within a few weeks of the install, my bet is always on the installer (there's always a chance that it was a bad part, but overwhelmingly it's the installer)
IMO, if it was a problem with the design of the pulley (vibrations, quality...) problems would show up after more than a few weeks. If you're getting failures within a few weeks of the install, my bet is always on the installer (there's always a chance that it was a bad part, but overwhelmingly it's the installer)
07-21-2006, 07:15 AM
#19
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Bit of a horror story emerging on the 350ZUKOC site:
http://forums.350zukownersclub.com/i...=0&#entry56964
NissanGB techs say UR pulley was to blame
http://forums.350zukownersclub.com/i...=0&#entry56964
NissanGB techs say UR pulley was to blame
