NO u'll never feel the diff

 

It shouldn't change the amount of force you would need to exert on the pedal. If the stock line from the master to slave cylinder is thick rubber, then the hose "bulges" a little due to the elastic nature of the rubber. Because this bulging takes pressure, you have a pressure drop from the pedal to the clutch because of that movement. If you swich to SS lines, you eliminate that bulge, and thus have less pressure loss to the clutch.

Unless there is a failure in the system, a stock hose should still perform as designed though, and there is an additional underlying problem to why the pedal got stuck.

If you haven't already, check to make sure your CLUTCH master cyclinder is topped off with DOT approved brake fluid (always use new, unopened fluid). Bleed your lines as suggested to make sure there is no air in the system, and when you tighten back the bleeder valve, have someone mash the clutch pedal and look for any pin leaks.

Honestly though, since you have such low mileage, just have the dealer deal with it...it will save you a bunch of headaches.

If you need to replace the hose though, go with a braided stainless one, because it will last much longer, and perform more efficiently. Don't worry, it won't take extra force to push down though.

 

JT ---With all due respect this appears to be somewhat, the nature of the beast due to many threads Iv seen on it. Maybe the Dealer to get paperwork and verification that u had a prob at X amount of miles. As far as the dealer solving the prob i would expect a lot of time lost and even more

 

I recieved a call from the dealer today and they told me that they adjusted some "clutch safety switch" that was some how not engaging the clutch correctly.

I think its BS.

I don't see how that could cause the problem I was having. The problem is that the car was working fine when I towed it there, so they most likely just said "hey it works fine, I don't need to check anything".

They said they tested it for 15 miles and it drove normally. I tried to get them explain the what the "safety switch was" and it seems like they are talking about the switch that you need to engage when you start the car.

Does that hinder anything besides starting the car?

 

You know what E***zzzzy, you're absolutely right! And unfortunately our OP already seems like he had to waste his time at the dealer as well.

Edit: It seriously blocks out the "a-z-z" in E-a-z-z-z-z-z-z-y? WOW

Look at this though: *** *** *** *** ***...no blocking but a-z-z: *** *** ***

sorry for that little diversion..

 

UltraYellow, I don't see how a switch would allow your hydraulically operated clutch to not return to it's normal position. Could be the dealer talking out of his ***. Maybe I'm wrong, but a switch does not seem like the answer to the symptoms you described. If you have it back yet, check to make sure the fluid is topped off, and look to see if there is any visible contaminents in the master cylinder

 

wow lots of good info and advice, hopefully it will solve the problem, Thanks for the tips guys!!

 

Edit: It seriously blocks out the "a-z-z" in E-a-z-z-z-z-z-z-y? WOW

Look at this though: *** *** *** *** ***...no blocking but a-z-z: *** *** ***

Im perplexed about that also !!!!!! Maybe I should take it to the dealer

 

Got the car back. They charged me for the adjustment!! $84 for labor fee's. He told me that they adjusted the safety switch and that was the "apparant problem". He told me "adjustments" were only covered till 12,000.

I talked with him a while about how I felt that the charge was not valid because they didn't fix the problem. He explained that he couldn't diagnose the problem that I described and that he couldn't replaced anything under warranty. Since they couldn't claim any money out of warranty, they had to charge me for it.

I understood they had to charge someone eventually. So I just paid the fee and took the lesson to heart.

Hopefully this can be useful information to others. Thanks for all the help. I checked all the fluid and its topped off. I will periodically check. Hopefully I won't run into this problem again.

 

the Lying Thieves !!!!!!

 

No way. This sounds like bigga time BS.

This would in no way hinder the operation of the clutch. I have replaced clutch safety switch on other vehicles and its primary function is to simply keep you from turning over the engine on start if the car is in gear and the clutch pedal is not depressed, or anything else that wants to know that the clutch pedal is down or up.

I had something that sounds very much like what you experienced, I let it cool down, checked the fluid which was down a bit, but it was clear and did not appear to be "cooked" or contaminated like brake fluid can get. I later topped off the fluid with clean clutch fluid - wasn't much.

Nope, this is something resisting intense pressure to return to normal position, my "guess" is hot parts possibly not disengaging easily due to friction or something similar. I really have no idea why it happened, just that it did happen twice in nearly the same conditions, everything was good once it sat for awhile. I'm clueless as to exactly what's going on, but "clutch safety switch?" Sounds more like they didn't want to speculate that the clutch would sometimes do this under the conditions you describe.


HTH

 

ADJUSTMENT??? More like they farted around for an hour scratching their head and said, hey, charge for an hour and move on...the only type I have seen are a simple electrical switch that activates when the pedal arm moves far enough - no adjustment possible, IMHO.

Nuts

 

One of my thoughts was if the fluid and/or the slave cylinder gets hot enough, can that prevent return of the piston in the cylinder? The way it feels it like a vaccuum that slowly lets go - despite all the return pressure mechanically, all I can say is on mine it had a sort of hydraulic feeling to the way the return reduced down to almost nothing...

Wish I actually knew all the parts of the system

 

I don't think the dealer is telling the truth, they may have fixed your problem temporarily, be carefull. I had the same problem and discoverd it was the clutch slave cylinder as mentioned by others in this forum. The humidity in the air has caused it to slightly rust, not noticable at first glance. In my case, I was travelling and the Z was not driven for a couple of days, lucky for me though that it got stuck while still at home, needed several pull & push till it got loose, if you feel that the clutch pedal has some play just before you take your foot off or just when you push the pedal with your foot, then there is a good chance that this is the problem. Its an inexpensive part and you don't need the dealer to do it for you if you feel they will make an issue about it. If you know a decent garage, they can get it fixed for you same day if not a couple of hours I think. I just left my Z and picked it up late evening, forgot to ask how long it took them and charged me peanuts for their time.

If you have the chance, take it for a second opinion and let someone have a close look at that slave cylinder. I think the part costs $34-$38 only.

Good luck!

 

This is really good info, thanks.

The part is amazingly low cost for anything to do with OEM parts:
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2334

30620-CD010 NISSAN 350Z 2003-2004 $28.95
30620-CD021 NISSAN 350Z 2005-2006 $37.95

Guess if you have an '05 or newer you have to pay the premium

 

thats the master cylinder. i was shifting in2 fourth down my block and my pedal didnt come back up, ever. it was towed 2 nissan and they claimed the master cylinder was broken and charged me over $750 to fix it --> $430 of it being to drop the tranny wtf. isnt this covered under warranty? i only had 28,xxx at the time. they also took over 2 weeks to fix my car, and when i got it back, all my after market gauges were4 disconnected from my battery for sum unknown reason, and my check engine light was on. and my car averaged 10mpg average and my passenger rear tire pressure was 13 psi. bad service? sum1 beat the **** outta my car is my guess.

 

Holy sh*t, I wouldnt pay a penny for any repairs as long as the car is under warranty, unless its something thats wear and tear. Take the car back and have them fix everything. I dont know if its too late, but call Nissan N.America and tell them about it, thats just not right.

 

Guys, I was checking the fluids today and I noticed some deposits on the bottom of the clutch fluid resevior. It was like a very fine sand and it was black. I asked around and people told me its normal, but Im not so sure. Do I need to flush it out or is it ok??

 

Like any fluid in your engine compartment, debris is never good. Having fine dust/sand isn't "normal" in the sense that it should not be there. Couldn't hurt to flush, although I'm not sure if there's any good way aside from draining from the bleeder valve and refilling.

 

Sorry to chime in late on this thread, but I used to have the same problem. The culprit was the pressure plate. I belive that the stock pressure plates (Exedy) can be defective. Since I've upgraded to a Nismo pressure plate and disc (Valeo) I've never had a problem.