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Clutch won't pop out, Can't Drive

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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 09:32 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Lawn Dart
Sorry to chime in late on this thread, but I used to have the same problem. The culprit was the pressure plate. I belive that the stock pressure plates (Exedy) can be defective. Since I've upgraded to a Nismo pressure plate and disc (Valeo) I've never had a problem.
I can believe it - just rec'd my JWT clutch/pp kit and having looked at a lot of alternatives, the OEM is really junk for a car with the engine torque in a Z or G. The OEM is just a generic shared platform part. What really blows me away is the dealer OEM replacement for the flywheel runs $1100 - again absolutely nothing special. Dealer clutch and flywheel replacement was quoted to me at ~$1900, for a pile of junk that didn't much clear more than 30k miles. I've never had a clutch wear out in a car with less than 80-100k (well, until now...)
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 10:24 AM
  #42  
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Congrates !!! U made a wise choice. 14 Lbs compared to 28---The stock if iM not mistaken is a dampened unit and has no business on the Z
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 12:41 AM
  #43  
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Use synthetic tranny fluids for your 6MT.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 03:31 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Todd350ZX
Use synthetic tranny fluids for your 6MT.
Redline? Or something else?
thx
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 02:54 AM
  #45  
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From: jeddah
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stock clutches does that when they warm up
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 12:44 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Todd350ZX
Use synthetic tranny fluids for your 6MT.
I ended up using Motul, should do the trick, didn't have enough Redline on the shelf (I think the 6MT about 3 liters)
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 01:05 PM
  #47  
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Default Clutch Slave

Originally Posted by silver nismo
stock clutches does that when they warm up
Clutch Slave I believe allows pedal to return. Aftermarket clutch doesn't replace the slave cyl, that is external on the outside of the trans; I have not seen any AM products. My slave died right after new clutch. $28 Nissan part, should have it back on the road by the weekend. Am concerned why it blew, other than 31k/3 years. Car cannot be moved; it is "in gear" and can only be started in N - clutch fluid all over the driveway If it rains I have to do the work outside in Oct cool rain, Woo, Woo!


The only thing I can think of other than wear (it lost the seals on the interior moving "plunger") is what if over time I added fluid but they did not bleed the clutch when the new one was put in. The line from the clutch goes straight down to the external trans case driver's side to the slave line in. Bleed valve is right there.

I am hoping my new 1200kg clamping JWT clutch isn't too much for the stock slave unit - because I don't know what else I would use. Because you can just unbolt it and later bolt it back on w/o doing anything to it, I wonder if it had too much fluid, thus too much pressure. I got about 14 miles, parked overnight, next morning backed out of the garage (shifted OK twice - into R and back to N).

Now it shifts just fine but the clutch is engaged (disengaged?) I can shift all over the place with the geashift but that pedal is flopped on the floor like a dead fish. Crossing my fingers new slave unit and fresh fluid, bleed it, try it out.

GREAT clutch otherwise - all I can say is "what have I been missing!" between the JWT flywheel and the clutch actually working instead of slipping all the time. The difference was dramatic in engagement.

Here's some pics of Clutch Toast server with Fried Flywheel:
New Clutch and FW Pics plus dead OEM, and org OEM on .Mac pages

Clutch Slave Pics on .Mac pages



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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 05:09 PM
  #48  
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Ultra, I've been having this problem lately. Have you had any recent issues or did this fix work?
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #49  
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https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....5&goto=newpost
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 06:50 PM
  #50  
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Gracias.
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