bacalhau16

iTrader: (32)

I hope nobody is trying to say that this mod is better then solid motor mounts. Also, if your motor feels like it literally is going to rip out of the engine bay, then buy motor mounts. This would just be a band-aid if that were really your problem.

Im not doubting that this is a decent mod, but still dont feel as though it should be anybodys first mod, or fifth for that matter.

ZLadie2000

iTrader: (12)

^^ Please document the results! Thanks!

MustGoFastR

iTrader: (13)

Got mine yesterday along with the master cylinder brace. I'll install this weekend. Oh, for those considering the master cylinder brace, you Do have to cut a 1.5" hole in the sheet metal in front of the master cylinder with a hole saw for it to pass through and another 1/4" hole to re-locate the clutch fluid reservoir slightly to the side. Both pieces look very well made. I know the cylinders look about identical to what you can get on Ebay, but the brackets that are priprietary to Stillen are very nicely made. Both also come with complete photo-illustrated instructions and all mounting hardware.

first350

iTrader: (24)

just one of these from Triple8Sol ... it's in the mail . Can't wait to install it...if I find anything new, I'll make sure to post it. (probably won't get time to throw it in until 2007 ...b/c I'm going to Hawaii for Christmas )

mikead_99

iTrader: (5)

I'll agree that this is no replacement for solid motor mounts. For NA applications though, after having put a few hundred more miles on since installing this, the difference in my shifter is undeniable. I really would have done this earlier had I known my car would like this so much. For the price it's not like I would have had to postpone other power making mods to do this.

Jay'Z

iTrader: (118)

I understand in no way does this eliminate a need for solid motor mounts.. But in my years of reading about motor mounts, I have read that the engine needs some flex.... any info????

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

why would the engine need flex?

no race car has an engine that flexes

hr2burn

iTrader: (1)

I did this at the same time as the Turbonetics install. I have alot more viberation, but I don't know if it is the turbo or the dampener. Have you noticed more viberation?
Sean

Jay'Z

iTrader: (118)

i said it needs some flex.. but ill get back to you on it because im going to put up facts..... and for any race engine there is always flex.. no motor mount can hold an engine with over 1000 hp still in its place.....

Here it goes.... this is an I4 example..

Let's start with a little bit of theory.

Back in the day, engines were just bolted to the frame rails of the cars making for very little inter-chassis movement(engine moving inside the car). This was ok, because with a V8, the power hits every 45 degrees alone the axis so the vibration is distributed pretty evenly over a circle.

However in I4 configurations, the power hits every 90 degress of the crank turn and it's momentum sometimes is transferred forward or backward depending upon where in the cycle, each cylinder is. This is why they came up with rubber engine mounts, that look something like this:

This flexibility makes it so that the harsh vibrations that 4cyl engines create don't transfer into the frame rails, and in turn into the cabin, making for a very quiet ride.

Above you see what we in the 4 banger world would call a "front" mount, when in actuality it's a side mount. (front of the engine is the accessories side. Think V8). This front mount is also called a Torque mount, and aside from the primary function of holding that part of the engine up, it's secondary purpose is to allow the engine to move when you nail the throttle. This actually eats up torque and keeps it from getting to the wheels prohibiting burnouts or breaking the tires loose as easily. This is done in regulary consumer vehicles for stability, and quietness.

Here you see the rear mount(another side mount in actuallity).

You can see the extra space put into the mount, but not nearly as much as the front mount, this mount is designed to absorb the jolts of shifting the manual transmission. The mount for the AT Accord and most AT cars are different for each respective vehicle.

These two mounts are crucial in the control of interchassis movement. To make a car ride easier and quieter, soften these up. For racecar applications where you need the most torque and horsepower to reach the wheels, you make them solid. Making them solid is a big choice because once you've done this there's no going back without a lot of work.

The Process

In the above two pictures you'll see that I have my front and rear mounts out(I'm only doing these two because these are the two that control engine movement.).

When taking these two out, be sure of two things... firstly, that the car is supported properly, and secondly, and most importantly, that the engine be supported because the transmission mount will collapse over time if left with the roughly 550lbs of cast aluminum resting on it. There's no practical reason to solidify this mount unless you just need any lateral noise to transfer into the cabin.

This process of solidifying can and will sufficienly repair any cracks or broken urethane on the stock mount so long as the position of the steel tube hasn't changed due to the break.


Sorry dont have the pics.... but that explains what i meant...

bacalhau16

iTrader: (32)

wow johnb, thats a whole lot of words, with a theory of yours that is hit and miss. If your motor flexs its bad. Plain and simple. You would like to limit its movement as much as possible. Rubber mounts were probably only made to make for a comfortable car, because there are a lot of whiny consumers. That pretty much sums it up.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

my understanding is that by keeping the engine from moving or attempting to turn around the flywheel axis, that the force instead is forced to go down the driveshaft and to the wheels thus giving you slightly more power and response

Also keeping th engine still helps keep the transmission still and makes shifting smoother. Otherwise the engine and transmission are both being suspended to the car by rubber mounts and will both move around a lot. You usually wouldn't want the transmission mount to be solid though

using a solid motor mount on the Z engine turns the entire engine into a giant strut bar. Otherwise the only thing up front bracing the left and right sides is the stock strut bar, bumper brace, radiator mount and then kinda the sway bar.

I've been running solid motor mounts on my Z since april and love them. They even weigh 5-6 lbs less overall than the factory ones.

The only reason I can think of that having some flex with the engine can be a good thing is that it makes it easier to mount the transmission with being able to bend the back of the engine down slightly. Or if you hit your exhaust/cats on a speed bump, having the engine give a little might prevent cracking something - though thats' partially what flex joints are for in the Y-pipe. And you can always get some under car braces can shield the pipes from damage too.

Plus the solid motor mounts move the engine down 1/4 inch to lower the center of gravity a little

chishifu

iTrader: (5)

very informative thread thus far. It's really making me consider buying an ED to simply just smooth out the shifting. To the poster who said it wasn't worth the 1st or even 5th mod, why so? It seems as people really like this mod, and it's cheap.

To the poster who bought the topspeed stillen replica, how is it working out? Have you installed it yet? Impressions? Thanks a lot.

ChiShi

bacalhau16

iTrader: (32)

I say that it should not really be on a mod list for a couple reasons. I dont feel as though the Z has mushy motor mounts to begin with, and they are not a problem. There are other mods for almost $200 that may be more worth while also. A pop charger (more for enjoyment then performance), a spacer, set of springs, maybe even a used set of swaybars, and perhaps test pipes. I would rather go with those first 5 mods, and even after that Im not sure I would even buy a ED. I would rather buy things to reduce the weight of the car after that, light weight battery, set of seats, something like that.

Also, no matter what someone says, hardened or solid motor mounts is still a better idea then the ED. I would also not like to see people think that this will cure their engine rocking problems due to a crappy motor mount, when replacing the motor mount would be the correct thing to do.

eat rice z33

iTrader: (11)

i wish nismo made stiffer mounts. i hate how much my motor moves when powering in 1st or second, it makes shifting rough and non precise

ACEMAN

iTrader: (29)

All very good points.

I have been reading alot about the motor mounts and i believe i am going to go that route vrs ED. The solid motor mounts takes care of the problem by fixing what needs fixed.

Later
Todd

bacalhau16

iTrader: (32)

ace man, you understand exactly what Im trying to say.

eat rice, if it is that bad, then it sounds like you could use new motor mounts.

MustGoFastR

iTrader: (13)

I installed both the TQ dampener and master cylinder brace this weekend. Haven't driven the car yet, as weather has been crappy, but here's the thread I made on the master cylinder brace install, for those that are interested:

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/237881-stillen-master-cylinder-brace-installed-pics.html#post3105639


TQ dampener install was pretty straight forward; instructions were good and I had no problems with the correct tools on hand.

first350

iTrader: (24)

just got around to installing this...here's a link to Stillen's Install Instructions

ZLadie2000

iTrader: (12)

^^ well what do you think? worth it?

MustGoFastR

iTrader: (13)

After finally getting my car back together after my audio install, I've been able to drive it a bit when we have had a few nice days. I'd say hte dampener is deff. worth it. You can immediately feel the better throttle response and the car just feels more solid without the engine twisting on it's mounts. Shifting is also notably smoother, as others have mentioned. I have noticed absolutely no additional vibration.

Deff. a worthwhile mod as far as I'm conncerned, but after looking more closely at the latest Ebay ones, I'd just get one of those for alot less, as they appear to be exact replicas of the Stillen.