Got 267 with bolt ons, no cams, no header, and stock y pipe and a great UTEC tune. There is more power to be made. Check out the link on my sig. there are dyno numbers posted.

 

For what it's worth, I pulled 256 whp (dynojet) with the following:
1. Headers
2. Exhaust
3. test pipes
4. Plenum
5. UR Pulley
6. ECU reflash
7. Bored TB

N/A is NOT where it's at

 

I was at a dyno day with some Zs and most of them put out less power than my stock G. Some even had an intake. I was completely stock.

Most of them were pulling 216whp-226whp while I pulled 231whp.

 

You need the flywheel

The difference is in the Tune. People are getting great results with a Tune with the UTEC. I was able to self tune on top of the reflash and gain 5 peak HP and 4 peak TQ. Again, this was on top of a reflash.

I know there is more Drivetrain loss with the G35, but how much i dont know.

Later
Todd

 

Alright, so with a utec I would have hit 260whp. Just not worth it IMO. 3-5 grand for 20 hp. No thanks.

 

try 280 tuned, but its still expensive as crap

 

Never said it was Worth it

Just said that it can be done.


NA mods for how much you spend and what you get back can leave you thinking, why did i spend all that money. With me, i have been at it for 4 years, so its not all that bad.


Later
Todd

 

You just have to be realistic about your NA mods and choose the bang for the buck mods

A 1500 exhaust system is more often bought for looks/sound than power

A set of 300 electric cut outs (plus $ for install) will make more power and cost much less while remaining quiet for police

Plemum+ spacer for 650

1000 bucks for 20-25whp not too bad

Add a 100shot for say 800-1000 installed and you have a pretty quick Z for not too much $$$

Figure 270-280 off the bottle and 350-360whp on it ---- 12's should be a no brainer

 

What is a 300 electric cut out?

 

I think he meant $300 electric cutouts. They are basically Y-pipes you add to the exhaust with doors in them that you can open with an electric motor. They allow the exhaust to go out through the cutout instead of through the cats/mufflers. All the benefits of test pipes and high flow mufflers when you want it, without removing any of them.

Here is an example:
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php

 

I agree with the FI crowd. By the time you spend all that $$ on the N/A mods & labor (esp. cams), you might as well get a Stillen Stg II...for an assured gain of what you're looking for vs. gambling with the same amount of $$ hoping that you'll reach your goals.

ZP

 

+1

 

Let's look at my situation here and figure this a bit different.
The original question was ,looking for additional 50 FLYWHEEL NOT wheel horsepower with the following mods:

1) Crawford Plenum $200 used off www.my350z.com
2) Z Tube with K&N -free- came with the car
3) Stillen Headers $624.00 www.stillen.com
4) Crawford HFC $200 used off www.my350z.com
5) Stillen Y Pipe $255.82 www.stillen.com
6) UR underdrive crank pulley $182.58 www.stillen.com
7) Stillen flywheel $399.00 www.stillen.com
8) ECM reflash average price $599.00

This is a grand total of $2460.40
Divide this by the 50 horsepower and it comes out to be $49.21 per horesepower.

Let's figure a Stage 2 Stillen Supercharger, hood scoop (the $299 version),and a reflash. This equals $6223.00. Divide by 120HP gain and this equals $51.86 per HP gained.

Looking at it this way, not a huge difference in cost per HP.

You say what about labor. Well, I don't pay labor. I have a shop, a lift, and an awesome set of tools.

I will agree, if I had to pay labor I would do the supercharger in a minute. But also look at the first set of intake and exhaust mods as a foundation for the supercharger.

That is my position and I'm sticking to it.

 

Well, I guess that's what it comes down to.


ZP

 

Try and justify it anyway you want, but no way are you getting 50 hp out of your N/A components.

And for 6K+, you could have a ST setup which would completely dwarf your $/hp comparison

 

Hmm, well Ill put in my N/A $0.02 here since eveyone else is. Every car is different. Some people have "Friday" cars some have "Wednesday" cars. I had Nismo cat-back, Pop-charger, and MD 5/16" spacer. Thats it! No tune and I put down 267 to the ground. My A/F was 14 right down to 12 at redline. Real nice. Some cars are just better stock than others. I sold all those mods to a friend with a Rev-Up and he made 25X. Go figure. But to the OP Goals are not attainable without breaking engine open/ F/I. Unless your pockets are veeeery deep. IMO

 

and some dynos read higher than others. Some people run heavier/bigger wheels than others. Some run on the dyno on days that are hotter/cooler than others.

No matter what way the pie is sliced, the fact remains, that N/A parts will net you very minimal gains. Even if I got all the parts for free, knowing what I know now being down the road I have been, I wouldn't waste my time nor pay to have the parts installed. I too have a shop, lift, air tools, etc.

Just to get more specific in response to rlwjr1, for 6 grand, I could have a shop installed APS single and put down 400 whp, so do the math.

160 whp gain X 1.175(factoring 17.5% drivetrain loss) = 188 HP crank gains

6000/188 = $31.91 per HP

If you do the install yourself, the numbers become even more favorable towards FI

5000/188 = $26.59 per HP

 

^ you're forgetting the fact that you need still need boltons to get the best gain out of your FI. It's never either, or.

 

Yep, I boosted mine after a while and there is no comaparison!

 

+1
I gotta agree with this.

Sure its personal preference as to the value of NA bolt ons, but their potential and value is much better when FI is involved.

A spacer or plenum mod will easily do 20HP when FI. At least to me that's a good bang for the buck.

Test pipes Ditto.

A good catback exhaust system Ditto.

A good FI system will always have these elemental boltons.

The others can be debatable. Cams obviously perform when FI, but the installation isn't so simple like the above mentioned.