rocks

iTrader: (1)

try new coil packs. sounds like you could have a few bad ones.

Jokestrap

I hear you but this is on going.

Take it to the shop, they replace a few things and reset everything, several hundred miles later same thing. This is the third time now since the build.

I tell them it's not running right, they say bring it in, I do, I get it back and it runs good for a while then same thing. I always have to re-do all the settings on my stereo so obviously they unhook the battery at some point.

They are trying to find out what it is as well it's just getting old.

Donno

rocks

iTrader: (1)

I bet its your coil packs. My yamaha did the same thing when its coil packs went bad. It would run and then it wouldnt run right its wierd. Go order you some new coil packs and change them out, if its the same than the packs arent bad and then return them and get your money back. Coil packs are really really easy to change you could do it like 20-30 mins to pull all 6 and put new ones in.

Jokestrap

That wouldn't tie into the stereo amps cutting out though. It's not the voltage because one, I have a cap on my system, and two, the lights don't dim etc.

It must be a ground loop of sorts. I don't know. Anyone else??

Sean

one last time, did you check the belts at WOT for tension on the pulleys?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

If the SES light is blinking you have a misfire occuring. The SES light will blink during a misfire event... Start checking for fried coil packs, fouled plugs, and run a compression test...

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

When the car starts running like crap, does it consistently run like crap until you shut the engine off? Or once you return to cruising, it runs fine. I am trying to understand if the crappiness is JUST under WOT, and then immediately returns to normal.

Jokestrap

Tension on the belt is good.

Did leakdown and compression test last week and all good.

Would bad coil packs affect the stereo cutting off at WOT? The coil packs may be getting bad "current" if you will do to a bad grounding situation don't you think?

The issue is tied to two things, the stereo cutting out at WOT with no dimming lights etc., and the car running like crap maybe cuz the grounding issue is affecting the coil packs.

I could replace them, but I think they might go bad again.

Jokestrap

No Sharif, it runs good for a while after I get it back from the shop. Then it progressively gets worse starting with lazy starts, then a few misfires here and there and it finally gets to where I can't even drive it. Its weird!!!! The WOT issue relating to the stereo is just something I noted in the thread because it is obviously not right and could be related.

thawk408

iTrader: (16)

maybe has something to do with the vpro?

Jokestrap

Had the Ultimate before and thought it was the Ultimate, changed to the V-Pro and same thing.

rocks

iTrader: (1)

dude change your coil packs.

Jokestrap

I will change my coil packs next.

After doing that, the stereo sound will still probably go out at WOT. I really have a feeling that the car running bad and the stereo cutting out are connected some how.

MR_X

iTrader: (5)

Wher did you take the car toget looked at and "fix" and how many times? But yeah I will check coil packs.

ACI318

iTrader: (5)

I had a friend with a similar problem with his Scion TC and it was his tune. He was pulling to much timing with his E-manage and frying the coil packs. Maybe you should try running at a safe level on stock ECU and see what happens.

I am familar with engine electrical and stero electrical problems and this deffinetly sounds like it is on engine side. It could be the tune or ground problems, but if you cant figure it out take it to a pro. Dont chance your engine again.

Jokestrap

Everything has been done by the "Pros" and still the problem. They can not seem to figure it out. Again, it leaves the shop after tune and runs well, after time it gets worse and worse until it barely idles.
???????????????

Jokestrap

I big name hp 350z shop that will remain un-named... They are doing all they can to get this straight and there is no need to publisize it.

dTor

iTrader: (27)

Well, that's not exactly the problem that I've heard of with the emanage. The problem is that with the ignition key "on", but with the engine NOT running, the EM still sends a little bit of current to the coil packs. This is BAD for them when the engine is not running, and fries packs really quick. The "fix" for this is to install a diode on each ignition wire output from the emanage. I know is this an issue for the EM blue, and I think it is the same for the Ultimate, though I'm sure Sharif or somebody else will know for sure.

Looking at your timeline, fried coil packs could definetely coincide with the installation of the EM Ultimate. You CANNOT let your car sit with the ignition "on" but engine off for ANY length of time. I've heard of guys frying coil packs just leaving the ignition on for a "couple of minutes" without having the diodes installed.

Another thought is that perhaps you fried the voltage regulator or some component of the charging system that would influence the amount of charge the alternator makes at high RPM.

It's also possible that your cap is bad or your battery is losing too much charge too quickly. Have you checked your battery for bad cells?

BTW, having a cap is not a cure-all for an insufficient charging system. I'm currently running an 800W RMS amp with NO cap and my lights do not dim in the slightest, even with A/C, wipers, and defrost on simultaneously. I will tell you that, if you search, you will see that others have complained about their car cutting out on them (Zs and Gs alike) with a high-power stereo system running. I experienced this when I first installed mine. After I redid my grounds all was well.

Good luck. This stuff can be a PITA.

ACI318

iTrader: (5)

I know Jason down in Houston at Stoopid Fast is a very good guy and maybe he could help you out. Some times even good shops have problems that are above them. If you want I can PM you his number so you can get a second opinion.

Jokestrap

I have not had my ignition on at all, not even for a minute ever. I do not have the Ultimate anymore. I have the V-Pro and it still acts the same relating to this as did the Ultimate. Not an Ultimate issue. I think you may be heading somewhere with the voltage regulator. I understand that the cap is not necessary just something I got as a precaution.

I will replace the battery, change the coil packs, and but a full grounding kit and install and see what happens. If that doesn't work then I'll go with the voltage regulator.

What is "PITA"

Thanks.