vze4fhpv

iTrader: (5)

I am contemplating doing some work on my z. I have been playing with the idea of going F/I for a while. I have read about every kit avialable and each seems to have pros and cons. I have also given some thought to just staying n/a and building my motor but I'm not sure if the gains are worth it.

I use the car on weekends, I want daily driver reliabilty without a ton of money and maintanence. I want to intall a kit without adding this and that, and oh by the way you need 1000-2000 worth of this too... I don't want to blow a motor, not looking for the fasting thing on earth. Want safe!!! reliable and fun... don't want to be working on the car all the time.

I have a few questiuons that will help make my choice, please provide your posative feedback and comments, especially if you actually have on of these kits.

*APS Single - Can't find much info, anyone know a good price installed? Pro's and cons?
*Turbonetics Single - $4855 shipped (problems with ecu reflash not being trustworthy and a/c lines melting due to location of turbo/piping) so you need to run a utec?
*Greddy TT - (e-manage is as useful as a paperweight) again add a utec?
*Vortech - only notice at high rpm's not as much tourqe as a turbo setup?
*Procharger - no chance, I've seen them fall apart... in my opinion they are not an option.
*Stillen SC - stage 2 or 3, ok gains but most people I see buy them wind up selling them to get turbos later I'm guessing not happy with gains.

Does anyone have a really good but safe kit in mind, who makes the best? Who makes a complete kit with no add ons needed?

Then you have the built motor option, I don't know much about it but does anyone run a N/a built motor on here and see good gains in hp and tourqe from it? Again if a turbo or sc is cheaper than building a motor please let me know....

THE TECH

iTrader: (154)

You will more than likely lose power on just a built motor unless you plan on running high compression. The upside is that you'd be ready for whatever forced induction that you want down the road. I am more than happy with my Vortech setup. High hp is just for bragging rights and street ricers.

rocks

iTrader: (1)

You dont lose power on a built motor. Im making more power than a stock z.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

The answers to all of your questions have been discussed in great length. I suggest you go to the FI section and make the best informed decision for you/your situation. FYI daily driver reliability is not possible with any kind of FI. Some have luck on stock blocks, others have serious issues with built motors. Sounds like you would be better off staying NA with all bolt-ons and cams, thats the only way you'd have real reliability IMO.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Noticed in your sig your built with 9:1 compression. What FI do you have? If none how much power on what dyno? Also, JWT does not make S7 cams as yoru sig lists...

Old School

iTrader: (28)

You're running NA with a 9:1 compression ratio? What's the point of that? If I were going NA, I'd raise compression between 11.5:1 to 12.5:1 (depending on management used).

VZ - if you want more power without any headaches....check out nitrous. Turbos are great, but if you want reliable power....turbos aren't the best choice.

booger

iTrader: (6)

I use the car on weekends, I want daily driver reliabilty without a ton of money and maintanence. I want to intall a kit without adding this and that, and oh by the way you need 1000-2000 worth of this too... I don't want to blow a motor, not looking for the fasting thing on earth. Want safe!!! reliable and fun... don't want to be working on the car all the time.

If this is what you want ...stay awy from putting a F/I kit on your car

ct350z

iTrader: (6)

what have you dyno'd at with this set up?

rocks

iTrader: (1)

Yea JWT doesnt make S7 Cams even though they are freaking listed on the website. Why dont you check next time they just came out like maybe a month or two ago. And yes i am making more power with a 1.2 point compression drop due to cams and balancing, and headers and stuff. You people that think driving a N/A built motor at 9.1 compression would be sluggish are funny. And yea its staying like that untill i turbo it.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=460
PART DESCRIPTION:
VQ35DE REV-UP S-7 CAM SET
FITS:
350Z, G35, FX35,
ENGINES:
VQ35DE REV-UP

Theatrix

iTrader: (8)

Just a relatively new cam, that's all. I've been Anxious myself in installing these cams. ****in oil consumption problem to deal with, but soon.

THE TECH

iTrader: (154)

I'd like to know what kind of power you are making as well. Just cause you made a bit more power really doesn't justify building a motor...especially for N/A purposes.

rocks

iTrader: (1)

I will dyno it next week, the guy that has the dyno im going to use is having a problem with the o2 sensor so have to wait untill its fixed or they get another sensor.

Old School

iTrader: (28)

You intent is to turbo the car...then that makes sense. If you were going to stay NA, then it would be dumb.


As far as your built motor comment.....take a stock Z and drop compression without any other mods...you will loose power. Its a fact.

I can put maxima cams on the Z (loose power) and add a 75 shot and say I'm making more than stock. One step back and two step forward doesn't do much good. You explained your intentions with your car and it all makes sense now, so good luck! For a minute there I thought you were a complete moron. lol.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

I overlooked that you were a Revup. So what do you dyno? You just said above you dyno higher than a stock Z, now you say your gonna dyno next week, which one is it?

Old School

iTrader: (28)

+1


Hey Bert....you're on tranny #4? damn...took you a long time to figure out how to use the clutch huh? puhahahaha. just bustin your *****! lol.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

I agree and disagree. Nitrous isnt always reliable. Bottle pressure, having the heater on to always have pressure up, weaker pressure, weaker shot (n20 street racers always use that as an excuse for losing) solenoids failing, pulling the bottle, remote opener, blowdown tube off for refills gets annoying, etc are issues with N20. All systems have pros and ocns, I wouldnt exactly call nitrous headache free. It is the best bang for the buck though.

rocks

iTrader: (1)

Alberto i havent dynoed it yet i just now have 2900 miles on the engine. I can tell it is quite a bit faster though from how it drives. I will be using a mustang dyno since it is the only one here and only costs me 30$ for a pull on it.

Old School

iTrader: (28)

I never have pressure issues unless the bottle is almost empty. But most of the things you mentioned are PITA things more so than reliability issues. If pressure is low, you can still drive home. Not gonna get into another turbo/nitrous debate. You've had both just as I. Just trying to help point this guy in the right direction. I've had nitrous on several cars and the only thing that has ever come up or failed was my purge solenoid. That's 10 years of good luck with nitrous and ZERO years of good luck with turbos. lol. My damn turbo cars were always in the shop. All but the supra. Go figure. lol.

THE TECH

iTrader: (154)

I think nitrous is great. There is no better bang for the buck out there.

vze4fhpv

iTrader: (5)

Let's get back to the topic guys... decided to go with a single turbo setup... between aps and turbonetics... your thoughts? Bakc up your points with hard facts...