Trying to locate the stock oil sending unit so i can install a oil temp guage...anyone know where this is located?

 

anyone?

 

Just in front of the oil filter (towards the radiator). Its got a wire clipped on the end of it. Get yourself a special sender unit wrench you can buy cheap in any auto parts store.

 

Why would you remove the oil sender to install an oil temp unit. The Greddy spin on oil filter adaptor isn't THAT much money..

 

Get the Greddy sandwich plate. It's not expensive; plus it gives you spots to plug in other gauges.

 

Exactly my thoughts..

 

I personally don't like sandwich plates unless I am running a oil cooler. I just would weld a bung in the oil pan and be done with it.

 

what is a bung....do u have a picture....they sent me a new sender...can you not replace the old one?

 

Actually, the easy thing to do is just weld a piece of flat steel to the pan, and then drill and tap the pan. No bung needed. Bung is just a predrilled piece that can be welded on the pan.

 

There's not a lot of room on the lower pan unless you weld the bung angling the sensor down. You could just run an oil pan spacer from AAM that has the port pre machined if you want to put the sensor in the pan..

 

It needs to sit in the oil fully. It's pretty easy to drop the pan and see where it would fit. The sender only sticks into the pan perhaps 1/2 an inch on a VDO sender.

 

I would be sure to not put it where any oil coming from a future turbo would flow directly onto the sender.

 

I'm sure you can find plenty of places to mount the sender where it would be fully submerged in oil. My point is that there is no room to weld a bung onto the lower pan parallel to the road. That means the oil temp sensor would stick straight down towards the ground... While I doubt anything would happen to it I'd rather not have the oil temp sensor sticking straight down...

 

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...08-17-2005.pdf

Page 6 shows many places I could stick a sending unit. Just weld a 1 inch's square piece of steel the pan and drill and tap. Only reason you need to weld is to make the pan thick enought to tap. One of the two flat areas in the back portion of the pan would be my firts choice from looking at the picture. I am not going to crawl under the car to compare.

 

or you could just get a sandwich plate? why on earth would you tap the pan and run the risk of jacking your oil pan. it would cost more to pay someone to modify and tap your oilpan than it would for the spacer.

 

Welding and taping the pan would cost next to nothing. Maybe $20-30 total max. Even if you have to buy a Tap. I assume you already own a drill. I could do it locally for free as I have the proper tap (easy to find at Lowes) and finding a buddy to weld on a 5/8 (or whatever) washer to the inside of the pan to tap thru is not exactly hard. BTW, Sandwich plates can leak and can be a general PITA. Some are some aren't but I prefer to not run the things if I can avoid it. I hated the sandwich plate on my last car.

 

Like I said do your thing... I don't know if you've ever worked with that lower pan stamped steel but its not the place I would put mine...

 

Honestly, the easier way would be to take the oil temp sending unit, get a two way adapter from a tuner show that has taps for the sending unit and another hole (for the aftermarket gauge), use teflon past (Found in most hardware supply stores) on the threads and tada! I did this on my eclipse when I tapped the oil pressure sending unit to add a feedline to my turbo, as well as adding another aftermarket greddy pressure gauge.

 

Many sending units are too big to fit in the adapter like you describe. Oil Temp Sending units belong either in the pan if you are not running a radiator style oil cooler or right after the oil cooler if you are running that style cooler. That way you know the temperature of the oil going into the engine. Oil filter is fine as well as it’s right after the oil pump. My way puts the least amount of fittings on the engine, requires the least cost, and is the least likely to leak in the future. Complexity is bad, simple is good. The only way my setup would leak would be if you bottom the pan out on something. If you do that you should be stopping to look at the engine anyway.

Yes I have, and it works fine. That’s why you thicken the steel with a simple washer to add enough meat to the pan. It's not complicated. I know lots of people who have taken this exact advice with no problems at all.

 

BTW, has anyone looked at the Nissan Oil Pan Bolt. It's basically attached the same way I describe. Thin pan, Metal on the inside to thicken the pan that has the threads. Nissan does not weld that thing on, it's epoxied or something in the pans I have seen. Don't be scared, step away from the "I got to spend more money" people.