I'm not afraid to step away from that. In fact I bought a second lower pan and was going to add my own baffles to it to use with the JWT pan spacer I'm running. A buddy of mine tack welded some mock up baffle plates to the lower pan and even just tacking it to the pan with little to no heat the metal of the lower pan was so thin it was getting ready to burn through... We dropped the project after that...

 

I have successfully epoxied them to the inside of the pan. For this project to keep from burning thru (if you don't have a welder to handle the thin metal) Just weld the Washer to the outside, back it up with a flat piece of steel on the inside, weld deep enough to burn into both pieces from the outside.

 

I'm still learning to weld so forgive me if I'm not as qualified as you are in different types of metal. Perhaps the issue was the welder he used. Either way $150 for an oil pan spacer with the port in there is not enough for me to go buy another lower pan ($46) and potentially ruin it trying to weld on a temp sensor bung. But if thats your preference go for it. Sometimes the extra $100 is worth the convinience to me...

 

I can understand what your saying. If the oil pan spacer has the port then I would seriously consider that. If you have need for a oil temp gauge you probably have need for the oil pan spacer and the extra capacity that provides. If the spacer does not have the port then it's plenty thick to dril and tap it for the gauge. If you don't want to get the spacer and want to put it in the pan then do what I recommended. I would just get two washer. One about 1/2inch bigger then the other. That way when you take it to the welder he can tell you if he feels he needs to back the thin metal up with another piece in back. I am not a welder. I had a great welder out in Virginia and he and I would do these type of projects together. He had multiple types of machines for welding different metal. Here in Colorado I would have to look around again. Personally, I would just buy the spacer for the pan and put the thing in there.

Edit: I would drill the starter hole for the tap, run a small bolt thru the hole and hold the two pieces to the pan using a nut. Weld from the side you put the smaller washer on. Then you tap thru the hole using the tap. Test fit the sender and run the tap deeper till the sender fits flush but tight. NPT tapes are tapered so you don't want to make the hole to large by taping it to much to soon.

 

The AAM pan spacer has a port pre-machined and tapped for 1/8 NPT which is the standard size for oil temp thermocouples. For $150 its more convinient to me to just buy that. Of course the spin on Greddy adaptor is only $60 and people are having some good success with that.

 

I wonder why they dont make a special bolt that replaces the oil pan drain bolt

It could be bored out and threaded down the center to have the oil temp sender mounted in it. Heck if it has a hex head on it, you can change your oil with out dropping the dammn bolt in the oil pan since the wire will be keeping it dangeling there in front of you?!

hum?

 

They do have that bolt. Problem with the bolt is that it puts the sender at the lowest point which on some cars is a issue.

 

u know. ive seen some oil temp sender units that are about an inch long???? Will that work with a sandwich adapter?

everyone says get the greddy sandwich adapter? will a sender unit that long work?

-j