something wrong with my clutch?
So the other day, I was just practicing launches and like my clutch kinda got stuck at the bottom. Then there was this smell like when my car was breaking in. Now everytime I start my car theres that smell and the smell also comes from my ac too. Anyone know wassups and if theres something wrong with my clutch? Thanks.
Its not stuck to the floor anymore, it was just stuck near the floor for that instance, then I brought it back up with my foot. Hasn't been stuck again but ever since theres just that smell now. Just wondering if its not really anything big or if I should take it into Nissan to check up? Thanks.
Hope there isn't anything wrong, but as of right now, everytime I start my engine, that smell is there and stronger through the ac but disappears a few moments later. But I mean, the smell comes without even driving my car... I'll probably just take it to get checked up.
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jamie i would bring it to nissan anyways (since ur still under warranty) and get them to check it out but make sure u tell them that it jus started smelling for no apparent reason. if there is any damages they will have to deal with it -liem
You might have warped the clutch plates. One way to tell is the car will "creep" when the clutch is disengaged and that would cause the smell as the friction plates are rubbing. When you do repeated fast starts and try to spin the rears it heats the plates up too much. Especially if you don't do it right and slip the clutch too much! How do I know this...I did it attempting a silly burn out on my Aprilia superbike. Fortunately it was a snap do-it yourself procedure replacing the plates, for a car it's a whole different thing.....cha-ching, cha-ching!!!!
My 2 cents worth (hope I'm wrong)
Later
My 2 cents worth (hope I'm wrong)
Later
Last edited by FigTuna; Mar 10, 2007 at 05:44 AM.
That USED to happen to me at the 1/4 mile track. Sucked going down the track with that nonsense. Anyway the smell is of you burning your clutch plate. When I changed out my clutch/flywheel I no longer have that problem. The Z has some crazy dual flywheel cr@p that is like 25 lbs!!! I absorbs alot of shock but at a price. It is not made for racing!!!!
It could of had any of the factors stated above. Mine did this alot when it was revving to high, for too long of period (which isn't long at all). This could of also cause the clutch fluid to come to a boil. If your going to continue to drive hard get another clutch, flywheel, stainless steel line, and some good clutch fluid.
Sorry Nissan put a type of clutch in the car that can't handle the power.
Sorry Nissan put a type of clutch in the car that can't handle the power.
Sorry about the news dude! This JUST happened to my 2006 Roadster that I bought 2nd hand (11k miles), from the original owner, (who's gender shall remain nameless)! Same situation (drop clutch, burnouts, gate launch etc. call it what you like) my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. ALL mechanics I spoke with were completely baffed as to why ( including the factory mech). ......YOUR CLUTCH IS TOAST!.... This could be via warping, glazing, chipping and a whole plethera of reasons. Believe me, it IS slipping even after you THINK you are fully engaged. The smell you smell is frying clutch.
Clutch material, friction plates, hydraulic fluid, gear oil, KY jelly, or any other frictionable or semi-viscous material, used to connect your powerplant to your driveline, is NOT, (read the fine print in your warranty), I repeat is NOT,NOT, NOT covered in your 3/36!!!
Now, Here's what went on.... The factory service manager told me the clutch was toast... we knew this already! He said he would TRY to uncover any minute reason that pointed to a defect in MATERIALS and Workmanship that provided for the clutch failure. He stated that If, he could NOT find this reason, I, was still on the hook for the $600+ " investigatory" diagnosis of the problem! However, He, in that improbable event, could remedy the problem with varios equipment options, for about $1500!!!
The solution I chose... Find a clutch assembly on the net...Ebay, perfomance warehouses etc., for a factory or stage 1,2 or 3 stage clutch with ALUMINIUM FLYWHEEL!!!!, Go to a reputable installer (I used CLUTCH MASTERS) and have the assembly installed for $300-$350. You can get a stage 1 (plenty of grip w/o forced induction) for about $400-$600. Please view my Signiature. Note the clutch application!
I worked years at an auto dealership. 60- 80% of the dealer revenue comes from service, NOT sales!!! The service manager WILL take you for a better ride than the floor salsesman!
SORRY about the SUPER LONG post, but, I thought it was necessary!
Clutch material, friction plates, hydraulic fluid, gear oil, KY jelly, or any other frictionable or semi-viscous material, used to connect your powerplant to your driveline, is NOT, (read the fine print in your warranty), I repeat is NOT,NOT, NOT covered in your 3/36!!!
Now, Here's what went on.... The factory service manager told me the clutch was toast... we knew this already! He said he would TRY to uncover any minute reason that pointed to a defect in MATERIALS and Workmanship that provided for the clutch failure. He stated that If, he could NOT find this reason, I, was still on the hook for the $600+ " investigatory" diagnosis of the problem! However, He, in that improbable event, could remedy the problem with varios equipment options, for about $1500!!!
The solution I chose... Find a clutch assembly on the net...Ebay, perfomance warehouses etc., for a factory or stage 1,2 or 3 stage clutch with ALUMINIUM FLYWHEEL!!!!, Go to a reputable installer (I used CLUTCH MASTERS) and have the assembly installed for $300-$350. You can get a stage 1 (plenty of grip w/o forced induction) for about $400-$600. Please view my Signiature. Note the clutch application!
I worked years at an auto dealership. 60- 80% of the dealer revenue comes from service, NOT sales!!! The service manager WILL take you for a better ride than the floor salsesman!
SORRY about the SUPER LONG post, but, I thought it was necessary!
Last edited by AgentR; Mar 10, 2007 at 06:49 PM.
Originally Posted by AgentR
Sorry about the news dude! This JUST happened to my 2006 Roadster that I bought 2nd hand (11k miles), from the original owner, (who's gender shall remain nameless)! Same situation (drop clutch, burnouts, gate launch etc. call it what you like) my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. ALL mechanics I spoke with were completely baffed as to why ( including the factory mech). ......YOUR CLUTCH IS TOAST!.... This could be via warping, glazing, chipping and a whole plethera of reasons. Believe me, it IS slipping even after you THINK you are fully engaged. The smell you smell is frying clutch.
Clutch material, friction plates, hydraulic fluid, gear oil, KY jelly, or any other frictionable or semi-viscous material, used to connect your powerplant to your driveline, is NOT, (read the fine print in your warranty), I repeat is NOT,NOT, NOT covered in your 3/36!!!
Now, Here's what went on.... The factory service manager told me the clutch was toast... we knew this already! He said he would TRY to uncover any minute reason that pointed to a defect in MATERIALS and Workmanship that provided for the clutch failure. He stated that If, he could NOT find this reason, I, was still on the hook for the $600+ " investigatory" diagnosis of the problem! However, He, in that improbable event, could remedy the problem with varios equipment options, for about $1500!!!
The solution I chose... Find a clutch assembly on the net...Ebay, perfomance warehouses etc., for a factory or stage 1,2 or 3 stage clutch with ALUMINIUM FLYWHEEL!!!!, Go to a reputable installer (I used CLUTCH MASTERS) and have the assembly installed for $300-$350. You can get a stage 1 (plenty of grip w/o forced induction) for about $400-$600. Please view my Signiature. Note the clutch application!
I worked years at an auto dealership. 60- 80% of the dealer revenue comes from service, NOT sales!!! The service manager WILL take you for a better ride than the floor salsesman!
SORRY about the SUPER LONG post, but, I thought it was necessary!
Clutch material, friction plates, hydraulic fluid, gear oil, KY jelly, or any other frictionable or semi-viscous material, used to connect your powerplant to your driveline, is NOT, (read the fine print in your warranty), I repeat is NOT,NOT, NOT covered in your 3/36!!!
Now, Here's what went on.... The factory service manager told me the clutch was toast... we knew this already! He said he would TRY to uncover any minute reason that pointed to a defect in MATERIALS and Workmanship that provided for the clutch failure. He stated that If, he could NOT find this reason, I, was still on the hook for the $600+ " investigatory" diagnosis of the problem! However, He, in that improbable event, could remedy the problem with varios equipment options, for about $1500!!!
The solution I chose... Find a clutch assembly on the net...Ebay, perfomance warehouses etc., for a factory or stage 1,2 or 3 stage clutch with ALUMINIUM FLYWHEEL!!!!, Go to a reputable installer (I used CLUTCH MASTERS) and have the assembly installed for $300-$350. You can get a stage 1 (plenty of grip w/o forced induction) for about $400-$600. Please view my Signiature. Note the clutch application!
I worked years at an auto dealership. 60- 80% of the dealer revenue comes from service, NOT sales!!! The service manager WILL take you for a better ride than the floor salsesman!
SORRY about the SUPER LONG post, but, I thought it was necessary!
You can drive on this clutch condition for months! I did..... But, believe me, it is slipping at high torque. When I finally swiched out the clutch, my Z was an entirely different animal. Go to a few clutch installers and see what they say. Let them drive the car and give their opinion. These guys usually are old school, big block enthusiasts. They are used to dealing with SERIOUS TORQUE!... If they say your clutch is fine, Then your OK...... It's free! wadda got to lose?.....++1 to louiZ. If you go the dealership, just play stupid and say "my clutch sticks at the bottom and I dont know why"... They wont risk losing your high profit repair business buy accusing you of abusing the car.
One more note. I dont understand Hr2burn's response that "your clutch is fine". Look at his post dated 03/10/07 where he experienced the same problem at high torque. He remedied the problem by REPLACING THE CLUTCH. He also went for a performance clutch with an aluminium flywheel!
Presumably, you bought a high performance sports car to experience the high performance!......NOT coddle the machine around town like it was a vintage collectable! I certainly dont mean to be rude to Hr2burn or to discount the extent of his experience (which probably surpasses my own) but, He contradicts himself and makes no sense in this situation.
One more note. I dont understand Hr2burn's response that "your clutch is fine". Look at his post dated 03/10/07 where he experienced the same problem at high torque. He remedied the problem by REPLACING THE CLUTCH. He also went for a performance clutch with an aluminium flywheel!
Presumably, you bought a high performance sports car to experience the high performance!......NOT coddle the machine around town like it was a vintage collectable! I certainly dont mean to be rude to Hr2burn or to discount the extent of his experience (which probably surpasses my own) but, He contradicts himself and makes no sense in this situation.
Last edited by AgentR; Mar 11, 2007 at 12:25 PM.
So I brought my car into the dealership about a week ago and they finally informed me today that, yes of course, my clutch is bad. They told me they were ordering a new clutch that will be in Wednesday and its covered under warranty so I don't have to pay anything. Woo!


