VQ Oil Analysis and Info
#163
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Originally Posted by Resolute
LOL, I should pay more attention- thanks for correcting me. I saw Castrol 5W-30 and just assumed GTX for some reason. OK, in my defense I was doing several other things at the time. I'll download the UOA and create a comparison chart entry for the Syntec. The Syntec 5W-30 is a thinner 30wt oil, that's for sure. I would say that fact alone lends favor to the M1 0W-40 being better for your SC engine, but a UOA will tell for sure betwen the two.
Will
Will
#164
Originally Posted by van46
i have ordered a greddyfilter also but k&n is also pretty good.
PS:WHO HAS ALREADY TRYED GR3 ON THEIR Z?i would be verry happy with some info
grtz
PS:WHO HAS ALREADY TRYED GR3 ON THEIR Z?i would be verry happy with some info
grtz
Will
#166
All the UOA's I've done, found, or received have been posted in the comparison charts. I have not seen a UOA using Torco oils in any engine. It's pretty rare stuff. It is a G5 oil base, but I don't know to what extent or what Esters they use. So far, the ester-based oils have not done too well. If you are using Torco, please share the UOA. It usually takes about two weeks for the first kit to arrive from BL. I have done so many, they just send me the kits in bulk now, and it seems to get here much faster than the first kit did. So, maybe the first kit just takes a while longer to get sent out, and after they have your information in the system it comes pretty quickly.
Will
Will
#169
Originally Posted by QuadCam
I forgot to ask if you have seen better results from using a straight 30W oil versus a 5W30 or 10w30?
In Florida, it might be hot enough where you live that the oil is already to it's hot viscosity when cold starting. But otherwise, you'll be hurting yourself not to use a multi-grade oil. There is a misconception that a multi-grade oil like 5W-30 is thinner when cold than when hot, since it is only a 5 weight oil. The fact is, oil thins out with heat. A 30 weight is too thick to pump quickly through an engine when it is cold, so the advent of an oil that is only a 5 weight allowed engines to receive better start-up lubrication. But the oil is only a 5 weight oil when cold, as in zero deg F. While it is thinner than a 30 weight oil would be at freezing temperatures, the 5 weight oil is still physically a thicker oil than the 30 weight is when hot. The multi-grade oils allow an oil to remain about the same viscosity despite extremes in temperature, where a straight weight oil would be too thick when cold to protect the engine well. By using a straight weight oil you lose the benefit of a multi-grade with no gain made in protection or performance.
Another misconception is that a straight weight oil is more durable and less prone to shearing. This is generally untrue. It depends on the oil, but a good synthetic will resist shearing from extreme heat and stress better than most single weight oils due to better chemistry involved. This has been proven many times in industrial and SAE white papers on the subject.
Will
#170
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Anything on Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30? I changed out my oil this weekend with this, thinking it was what was recommended, but when I saw the list again, it was the 10w-30 that was listed. Anything I should be too worried about? I went 4400k on the ASL 5w-30, burned ~1/2 quart
#171
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Will, first off: Great write up! this community owes you a debt!
Now I have read through this entire post, and perhaps I missed it, but has anyone done a test of Royal Purple 10W40? I am currently FI (Single Turbo) and started using this at my last oil change. If no one has, I will send mine out for a test at the next change just so it is on record.
Let me know
Jason
Now I have read through this entire post, and perhaps I missed it, but has anyone done a test of Royal Purple 10W40? I am currently FI (Single Turbo) and started using this at my last oil change. If no one has, I will send mine out for a test at the next change just so it is on record.
Let me know
Jason
#172
Originally Posted by redlude97
Anything on Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30? I changed out my oil this weekend with this, thinking it was what was recommended, but when I saw the list again, it was the 10w-30 that was listed. Anything I should be too worried about? I went 4400k on the ASL 5w-30, burned ~1/2 quart
Will
#173
Originally Posted by JasiJ
Will, first off: Great write up! this community owes you a debt!
Now I have read through this entire post, and perhaps I missed it, but has anyone done a test of Royal Purple 10W40? I am currently FI (Single Turbo) and started using this at my last oil change. If no one has, I will send mine out for a test at the next change just so it is on record.
Let me know
Jason
Now I have read through this entire post, and perhaps I missed it, but has anyone done a test of Royal Purple 10W40? I am currently FI (Single Turbo) and started using this at my last oil change. If no one has, I will send mine out for a test at the next change just so it is on record.
Let me know
Jason
Will
#175
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so...we have determined that castrol syntec 5w-30 is still a good oil to use correct? so, CS vs M1 0w-40 for a daily driver nontrack for oil changes 5k ish....any advice? thanks for the reply to the PMs earlier.
also, i only have 3qts ofGC 0w-30....what would be ok to mix with that? the american castrol 0w-30 be ok? thanks again
also, i only have 3qts ofGC 0w-30....what would be ok to mix with that? the american castrol 0w-30 be ok? thanks again
#177
Originally Posted by turbo-maxima
Has anyone tried using diesel oils like Rotella T synthetic or Delo, or amsoil synthetic diesel oils.
Will
#178
Originally Posted by 03aeroZ
so...we have determined that castrol syntec 5w-30 is still a good oil to use correct? so, CS vs M1 0w-40 for a daily driver nontrack for oil changes 5k ish....any advice? thanks for the reply to the PMs earlier.
also, i only have 3qts ofGC 0w-30....what would be ok to mix with that? the american castrol 0w-30 be ok? thanks again
also, i only have 3qts ofGC 0w-30....what would be ok to mix with that? the american castrol 0w-30 be ok? thanks again
Will
#179
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Resolute I sent you a PM, but you never responded.
Anyways all this info is a bit over my head but I have tried to read it, as far as I know M1 0W-40 is the best oil for Turbo Z's?
Anyways all this info is a bit over my head but I have tried to read it, as far as I know M1 0W-40 is the best oil for Turbo Z's?
#180
Originally Posted by Devil Z
Resolute I sent you a PM, but you never responded.
Anyways all this info is a bit over my head but I have tried to read it, as far as I know M1 0W-40 is the best oil for Turbo Z's?
Anyways all this info is a bit over my head but I have tried to read it, as far as I know M1 0W-40 is the best oil for Turbo Z's?
However, as posted in the Q&A on page two of this thread, there is no way to say what's the "best" for a FI engine. The types of FI mean the oil has different demands, the boost levels are different, some of the SC use a seperate oilo supply, some use engine oil, The tune can be vastly different among kits and tuners, etc.... too many variables that will affect the UOA results from one car to the next. I think if there were more FI guys doing UOA's, some oils might have average results better than some others, but it's tough to say. In a stock engine, there is a lot of control over the contributing factors from one UOA results to the next. The climate and driving style are not that big of a factor, since they really don't alter the actual environment the oil must operate in. The issues mentioned above alter the environment the oil must operate in, and those issues can change from kit to kit, tuner to tuner.
My suggestion is to try a good oil like the M1 0W-40, and see how that goes. Gurgen had pretty decent results with it in his engine considering the boost and build he's running. Fuel dilution is more pronounced if you're built, so that's the number one issue affecting the oil. If you're not built, then the extra heat placed on the oil from lubing the turbo center section is brutal, same for a SC that shares oil with the crankcase. If you're SC'd with seperate oil supply for your compressor, then the extra heat in the engine will still place extra demand on the oil. All this adds up to an oil that will benefit from being a thicker weight. Make sure whatever oil you use is NOT an ILSAC GF-4 approved oil. Look for an ACEA rating of A3 or C3. M1 0W-40 is a relatively thin 40wt oil, but meets those requirements. There are other 40wt oils that are thicker that might do better for you. Try Mobil1 TDT 5W-40, Quaker "European Formula" 5W-40 looks really good (but it's impossible to find), Amsoil's got some great heavy-weight oils that might do well for you. Maybe blow some money on one of Motul's 40wt oils if you like Motul. There is no definate list of oils right now to recommend for FI guys, just some educated guesses.
Will