Crank pulley fugged up!
03-27-2007, 04:02 AM
#23
Originally Posted by 97supratt
150-200 would most likely ruin the seal like it did for lots of people. 100-125 would feel much better.
03-27-2007, 04:16 AM
#25
Any time there is a situation where a bolt backing out will cause catastophic failure, use Lok-Tite. If the installer didnt use it, he was an idiot, and idiots dont back up their work so forget it as far as going back. Burn his house down after u fix it.
03-27-2007, 06:31 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by G352NV
Lifter caps. The caps that sit under the cams.
03-27-2007, 08:31 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by miamimax96
Don't wanna get too much more OT but we have bucket tappets that don't require adjustment. No lifters in a VQ.
03-27-2007, 10:09 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by G352NV
OK, Section EM page 64 of the service manual. In the pic on the page it shows #9. It then gives a breakdown of the #'s. #9 say Valve lifter. These caps come in different sizes that allow for adjustment.
03-27-2007, 10:17 AM
#33
Originally Posted by sentry65
that sucks for the UR. I wonder if any crank pulley would have had the same issue though if it wasn't tightened right - not that I know if that was the case here or not
if my KJR ever messes up, I'll probably get a non-underdrive UR pulley
if my KJR ever messes up, I'll probably get a non-underdrive UR pulley
03-27-2007, 10:24 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by miamimax96
I'm familiar with the FSM and very familiar with the makeup of the VQ's valvetrain. I've taken a few apart. VQ's don't have lifters in the traditional sense like pushrod or OHC engines that use rocker arms to actuate the valves. We have direct-acting bucket tappets. Sure, you can select different buckets to set the valve clearance but they do not need periodical adjustment like some types of lifters do. The valve clearance is set for the life of the engine, unless you introduce aftermarket camshafts that change the valve clearances.
03-27-2007, 10:31 AM
#35
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I apologize for going OT. To add my $.02, i don't think you would have had any issues had the pulley bolt been tightened to spec per the FSM. The procedure involves angle tightening which most installers don't bother doing. Hope it works out for you.
03-27-2007, 10:35 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by miamimax96
I apologize for going OT. To add my $.02, i don't think you would have had any issues had the pulley bolt been tightened to spec per the FSM. The procedure involves angle tightening which most installers don't bother doing. Hope it works out for you.
Its just frustrating because I do all my own stuff. I installed cams in this car and wasnt happy with the tapping from the clearance of the caps. They were in spec but just a little loud for me. So I took it to a well known Z shop and pay to have everything pulled a part and new new caps put back in. This is what I get!
03-27-2007, 11:12 AM
#37
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i got UR underdrive pulley. No issues running for at least two years. It was torqued by an impact wrench. The new belts were re-tightened in two weeks to get rid of the squeal.
Last edited by Ztalker; 04-12-2007 at 06:02 PM.
03-27-2007, 11:25 AM
#38
Originally Posted by G352NV
Thanks.
Its just frustrating because I do all my own stuff. I installed cams in this car and wasnt happy with the tapping from the clearance of the caps. They were in spec but just a little loud for me. So I took it to a well known Z shop and pay to have everything pulled a part and new new caps put back in. This is what I get!
Its just frustrating because I do all my own stuff. I installed cams in this car and wasnt happy with the tapping from the clearance of the caps. They were in spec but just a little loud for me. So I took it to a well known Z shop and pay to have everything pulled a part and new new caps put back in. This is what I get!
04-02-2007, 04:39 AM
#40
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We have seen this happen on a stock pulley, on a car that was done by a shop in Michigan.The guy purchased the car used, from a guy in Michigan who had the car done there at a half assed shop (Not GRD, and Not Charles's shop) and they never titened the crank pulley bolt, it was hand loose.
He also drove it from Michigan like that. To properly install a crank pulley bolt is a PAIN and required 2 people to do it right. The good thins, aside from beating up the softer pulley, the crank should be ok and is internally balanced..So damage was most likely contained to a minimal.
He also drove it from Michigan like that. To properly install a crank pulley bolt is a PAIN and required 2 people to do it right. The good thins, aside from beating up the softer pulley, the crank should be ok and is internally balanced..So damage was most likely contained to a minimal.