arizzee

iTrader: (28)

Sounds like a good plan but I’d skip the Nismo thermostat unless you track the car. Pardon the long post but I wanted to give some background on my experiences with keeping the engine cool in the AZ 110+ deg blast furnace.

When my Z was still stock, my cooling setup started with the Koyo 3 row radiator, Nismo Thermostat, and ARC oil pan. I didn’t have any gauges to quantify the effectiveness of those mods, and since I track my car, I put in a water temp (wts) and oil temp sensors (ots). The wts is just before the radiator inlet and the ots is in the oil pan. With the ambient temps over 90 F, normal highway cruising I’d see avg. temps of 180 F for both oil/water. Good I thought.

So my next test was on the track. Water temps were around 185 F (until I lost air flow to the radiator when I came off track and it would spike to 195 F), but my oil temps pushed 250 F and rising before I said uncle, and decided I needed and oil cooler. I bought the N-Tech oil cooler (basically it’s a Setrab 19 row core, custom mount bracket, ss lines and Mocal thermo sandwich plate adapter), installed it and back to the track I went for testing. Now the max oil temps were 230 -235 F, about what I expected. Great I thought.

Now came winter highway driving and my water temp was 160 -165 F (Nismo t-stat) and my oil temps were below 123 F (the lowest my Defi sensor would read). Not good I thought.

I went FI before I put back in the stock t-stat, and but with it my winter highway driving temps are now 180 -185 F water and 165 F oil. Acceptable I think.

So that’s why I say if you go with an oil cooler (and definitely get one with a t-stat), I’d skip the Nismo t-stat.

I’m currently finding the right cooling solution for FI in 110 F temps. Last week I saw 205 F oil and 202 F water temps while cruising @ 65 mph. I believe I have an airflow issue with the JWT FMIC so I’m looking at alternatives such as http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...2C+GM%2C+Viper...

Good luck with your cooling setup. Do you have oil and water temp gauges, and if so, what temps are you seeing?

P.S. If you’re still set on a Nismo t-stat I have a used one sitting in my garage I’d sell cheap

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

I already have the nismo T stat and everything is being installed today.

Funny I really dont think I have any issue with my JWT FMIC, my temps have been the same before and after the TT install 20K miles ago. With the exception of this last cruise when it was about 100 outside

I have temp gauges, hell I have gauges for everything LOL

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

In theory, it should, but it does not. Your distilled water is going to pick up contaminates and other impurities, so it wont be distilled for long. And it doesnt provide the lubricate needed as well...even with water wetter.

The other great than about Evan's is it boils at 375F even in a lower pressure cooling system. So micro bubbles and other heat transfer inhibitors are minimized.

Your steady state temps will probably be close to the same with Evan's, but under stress, the stuff works, and keeps your engine safe, even if you push it to the point of getting the coolant higher than ideal.

r0mey

iTrader: (35)

rofl i love the thread title

chris'smax

iTrader: (5)

Iens, vines, drive, coooooolllll ruuuunnnnniiiiinnnngggssssss.





Some people say they can't believe, Jamaica we have a bobsled team

chris'smax

iTrader: (5)

he be tha champion of tha push cart darby!!!!!



god i love that movie!!!

Q45tech

20% AF + distilled water half the year. More importantly is a method to INCREASE the volume of coolant [heat sink storage]............2 quarts more 20% will out perform any standard volume solution even with 50/50 AF.

Most non custom [one of a kind] aftermarket rads are lucky to add 5% increased capacity, some decrease capacity a tiny amount.

BloMyS14

iTrader: (7)

arizzee, have you looked into ducting between your FMIC and radiator? I seen first hand that ducting works wonders on cooling.