How to increase rev range?
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How can I help my VQ safely rev to 8-9k? What parts do I need specifically? I'm totally new to NA tuning. I hate to say it but I'm doing it mostly for the sound. If I wanted power I'd go FI with my Z.
Let me know, thanks.
Let me know, thanks.
cams, and valve springs, lifters and some sort of engine management.. and the most I think people crank the limiter up to is around 7500'ish...
any higher and you'll need to do even more expensive things.........
any higher and you'll need to do even more expensive things.........
Originally Posted by phenforum
How can I help my VQ safely rev to 8-9k? What parts do I need specifically? I'm totally new to NA tuning. I hate to say it but I'm doing it mostly for the sound. If I wanted power I'd go FI with my Z.
Let me know, thanks.
Let me know, thanks.
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
a complete motor build from top to bottom....
Originally Posted by Jonny Boy
You should check out the high rev stroker kit from GTM. It should be exactly what you want.
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Originally Posted by bleunetizen
i just put jwt valve springs and tomei 268 cams.. with utec. wonder how high i can rev. it seems to hold 7000rpm fine
with the rev extended via some kind of piggy back or whatever, arp rod bolts is all you need to rev to 7500rpm without breaking anything. now to make power upto that is a little different. i assume you have a regular vq35de
Last edited by andyman4lyfee; Jul 6, 2007 at 09:09 AM.
Man I hate to see people destroying thier engines because it sounds cool. Man if you want revs stick with an RX7 or RX8. There is no practicle reason to waste all that time and money to rev that high if you just want the sound.
But here is some poison if you realy want to take it: reflash, EMS, Ferrea HD valve springs (the dual spring units), lighter Titanium valves & locators, HD stainless retainers. At least L19 head studs to prevent head lift, ARP fastners, at least eagle H beam rods and a set of leight weight forged pistons. Dont forget to destroke your rotating assembly (rods & crank). Knife edge and balance the crank while your at it.
Since your going for revs and not concerned about power, screw the cams and head work. The main key to reving high is a lighter mass and stronger parts, you add in a shorter stroke so its less distance to travel and you have it.
Now if you want power behind the NA you have ALOT more work to do (larger bore, bigger valves, higher compression pistons, the right cam to make power all the way up, head work out the wazoo, intake, headers, exhaust, cat delete, a good tune, and thats a start) You have ALOT of work cut out for minimal gains the route your going. Not saying NA is horrible its just a MOJOR uphill battle for power.
But here is some poison if you realy want to take it: reflash, EMS, Ferrea HD valve springs (the dual spring units), lighter Titanium valves & locators, HD stainless retainers. At least L19 head studs to prevent head lift, ARP fastners, at least eagle H beam rods and a set of leight weight forged pistons. Dont forget to destroke your rotating assembly (rods & crank). Knife edge and balance the crank while your at it.
Since your going for revs and not concerned about power, screw the cams and head work. The main key to reving high is a lighter mass and stronger parts, you add in a shorter stroke so its less distance to travel and you have it.
Now if you want power behind the NA you have ALOT more work to do (larger bore, bigger valves, higher compression pistons, the right cam to make power all the way up, head work out the wazoo, intake, headers, exhaust, cat delete, a good tune, and thats a start) You have ALOT of work cut out for minimal gains the route your going. Not saying NA is horrible its just a MOJOR uphill battle for power.
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