I am opening a thread to accept advice on recommendations for my engine build and tranny re-install. Thus far I successfully removed my engine and tranny and broke down the engine to the core. Now I must start the rebuild process.

What I mean by advice is that I am current in the infant steps of building me new short block. I am slowly adding components back daily. Yesterday I attached the upper oil pan and rearward timing cover and the heads.
The heads was the big part.

Example of recommendation I am looking for: put oil on the threads of the ARP studs before inserting. Then systematically (following Nissan spec) torque them down, first to 25 ft/lbs, then to 50, and finally to 85ft/lbs which is recommended by ARP.

I followed these instructions precisely.
I am looking for any other recommendation, such as in assembling the camshafts, etc.
Let 'er rip fellas.

Also keep in mind that I will be simultaneously be adding a TT into the build prior to re-installing the engine and tranny.

 

you are leaving alot of info out.
Are you rebuilding with forged pistons and rods?
Why are you rebuilding?
Are you replacing the bearings?
Is there any machine work involved?

You reallly need to get your hands on a Z manual. Don't even think of putting that motor together blindly..

 

Which TT kit are you installing?

 

A lot of info to building an engine, as mentioned get a copy of the service manual to follow the right steps and torques. Instead of oil I used the ARP lube, also I retorqued the headstuds 3 times, loosened and retorqued.

 

ARP Moly lube only on the head and main studs, or you will end up with too little trq on the studs. What head studs are you using again?

Best of luck.

 

Perhaps you are right. I am starting with a built short block from kyle at Import Parts Pro in Texas. Great Guy.
The new block has Eagle rods and wiseco 8.5:1 pistons. Low Compression for boost. I am not planning on breaking any records with this build, but I should be able to hit between 5-600 pretty well.
I will be using a Greddy Twin with HKS BOV welded on and Greddy TT exhaust.

I am truly focused on the engine building strategy. FYI, I also have HKS head gaskets. I sprayed them generously with copper spray for an added layer of seal and protection.

L19 head studs. Torqued to 85 ft/lbs.

What is the deal with lube on the studs? I thought you were supposed to use loctite on the head studs and then lube on the nuts before torquing them down.

 

I have the service manual on a disc. I brought it to staples to print and they wanted to charge me almost $350for all of the pages. Apparently its like 3 encyclopedias put together. So instead I chose the relevant chapters I thought would be required:
Engine assembly, Fuel system, Exhaust, transmission and a couple of other sections. Still came out to $150.
Definitely useful, but again the numbers are not really the same, since very little is stock. For example torque specs on the heads are wrong, because the head studs are more powerful and can withstand more pressure.

 

When you say re-torque, do you mean that you removed the nuts completely and started again from scratch, again in phases up to 85ft/lbs. (Three separate times).

 

Thanks for the feedback. Sharif I know you are probably considered King of this Greddy set-up, so any input is greatly appreciated.

I will be using a UTEC as well.

Quickly, what's better In your opinion, a separate boost controller (like HKS EVC), or utilizing UTEC for boost management?

 

L19 should be trqed to 92ft/lbs with moly lube. Dont use loctite or anything else on those threads. They do not need to be trqed and retrqed three times, unless you want a workout. Once is enough, and 3 times doesnt provide any benefit, since you arent "stretching" a stud, as you would do with a head bolt.

UTEC seems to control boost fairly well, but the aftermarket boost controllers, have some bling factor, and extra features that might interest you. Or maybe not.

 

Sharif since you're in here, I'll ask you a question I've always had- I know the nuts are torqued down to 92ft/lb, but what about the studs themselves, that go into the block? Just finger-tight, or do you put some torque on them?

 

I was paranoid after having sleeve issues and it was a great work out with that amount of torque, made me feel comfortable

 

That's funny. ARP themselves told me to go to 85ft/lbs. Seems like I would be short-changing myself. I guess I'll take the off and try again this time up to 92ft/lbs and with moly-lube. Can I buy moly-lube in any automotive store, or only ARP?

 

Westpak, feel free to answer as well

 

Well it is supposed to be finger tight, I used a small allen wrench so very little torque applied, but not all went in easy so on a couple I had to apply a little more force to get them down at least even or close to the others

 

Ok cool, that's what I did too

 

Yeah there I think 2 that just were really stubborn and a couple of others that were harder but not too bad and the rest went in relatively easy.

 

Go for the L19's the ARP's don't hold.

 

+1. You need a clean pull on the threads, to properly set the trq. But I too, usually turn them with an allen until they stop...almost no trq.

 

You are not using moly on the stud going down, only on the nut being fastened? Right. Or is it on both?