Nothingremains, go with Amsoil.

I learned quite a bit on Resolute's thread. Another good alternative, according to Resolute and some Used Oil Analysis tests is Mobil 1 0w-40.

I use RP myself and will be switching but just remember that all of these oils are going to protect your engine 'well' its just that some do it a little better than others.

 

I changed to M1 0w40 because of the analysis Resolute put out.. And not to mention he said it was year round great to use>>!!

 

I've read from Mobil's website, and it says it's okay to switch back.

 

Me too my car ran better,idled better,gas mileage increased, i cant say anything bad about the tso 0w-30 besides it was a pain in the *** to get at first. oil analysis shows great w/this oil even after driving hard at the dragon, road tripping there and back, everyday driving, 5000 miles total. could have ran longer.

 

Whats that quote by Abe Lincoln?

"It is better to be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"

I have seen this quote on the web attributed to Abraham Lincoln, Mark Twain, Ralph Waldo Emerson, and unknown.


RESOLUTE: FTMFW!

I think I heard the school bus coming to a screeching halt? Yeah, school just ended.

 

If you have a UOA done, would you post it in the analysis sticky? TSO is a great oil, and it was just reformulated. It appears that the new formula is thinner but offers wear numbers as low, or even better than, the old formula. One of the best oils to use, for sure.

Will

 

+1... I got Amsoil in the motor, tranny, and diff. The Amsoil dealer told me the synth motor oil is good for 25,000 miles... Uhhh, I'm a little old fashioned, so it's getting dumped after about 7,000 miles. Lol. I change the lubes often, so any brand would probably be fine.

 

I always thought 0w was too light for FI applications. I'm running Redline 10w40 on mine. Recently changed from M1.

 

i noticed a lot of burn off using RP so i recently switched to Amsoil.

 

Been running Amsoil 0w 30 in my 03 with no problems or burning. She is doing fine with 44,500 on the ticker. I refresh every spring. ps all my vehicles run with Amsoil.

 

I work on big engines using methane from landfill as a fuel.Engines like Deutz v16,Cat v20,jenbackers v20 and some Cummings.There a billeting saing ,not oil with moly in any percent would be use.The reason is because moly form a film between the parts.Thats how moly work making a film between parts preventing metal to metal contact but on this engines the clearance between part is so small that that film will close the clearance cousin the parts to seize, and yes i see reports that shows engines being seize because of the oil.If I am wrong please some one correct me.

 

what works on one type of engine is not always well suited for another

Moly happens to be one of the best lubricants known to man. Yes, it exhibits certain chemical properties, just like other lubricants have their own known properties. Almost every single oil on the PLANET for automotive use, from low grade stuff to ultra high end motorsport only oils have moly in them.. Then there are some oils that don't. Which is better? Who the hell knows quite honestly. It's the equivalent of saying "who makes a better tire, Bridgestone or Yokohama" - there is no right answer, there are just differing opinions.

What oils are not moly based? The one that comes to mind is Amsoil. As such, the people who you'll see always saying 'not to use moly based oils' are, in turn, only pushing Amsoil...go figure. Amsoil, ironically, uses their own type of additive called ZDDP - performs a very similar function to a moly based oil, just a different overal chemical makeup, and as such, they tout it as the next coming. Which do you choose? I won't pretend to be able to guess, and my own theory is to use what the manufacturer of the engine recommends.

At the end of the day you have to realize what is truly behind these type of "debates" - money, and marketing, plain and simple.

The long and short of it is that in the end, both Moly and Non Moly oils work just fine. The key is instead to use the right viscosity for the engine's useage, including the temperature and conditions its operated in, and the rpm that it spends most of its time in, use the proper amount of oil for that engine, and change the oil and filter and regular intervals. Touting which oil you use just lets people belong to one group or another, which is an important part of human nature.

 

I have been using amsoil in my cars for years now, all of their products. I have had nothing but good luck. Couple of my buddies who races cars and motorcycles use it in there race applications and love it. Spend a few more bucks and try amsoil products. In the end who knows, but there are guys who swear by this and that, probably all personal preference. The best thing to do is oil samples and compare oils, somewhere there is thread on here about it. It tells the oils that did the best.

 

even "testing" oils has its limitations....as the state of tune of the car has a tremendous affect on the properties the oil will exhibit after use

no matter what oil you choose, I am a firm believe in using what the engine assembler/manufacturer recommends, using a name brand, with a good filter and changing it often. It's what I myself have always done, and I have never, in 17 years, blown a motor due to any oil issues, from 2 strokes to V8's, under all sorts of conditions and mileage and level of tune.

We race here too...we run 2 BMW's in ITS, help on a World Challenge car, and even have done a handful of very powerful bikes (Gixxers) but I won't profess to be an oil expert, nor have I ever gotten sucked into the 'mine is better' arguement, since I know its all marketing at the end of the day, on both sides of the fence. I've run just about every normally commerically available oil out there, from the el cheapo stuff (Wolfs Head!) to ultra expensive (RP Race oils, HKS, etc).

 

A mineral oil with a good additive package can be better than a synthetic with a bad additive package.

 

Will, does M1 0W-40 cause the same high pressure issue other M1s are known to cause in the VQ? Members are routinely posting on idle oil pressure at 120psi when they switched to M1.

 

Z1

Quick question, is it a good idea to use motul 300v 5w30 ?

Will it cause any harm if used as daily driver oil?

 

I cant tell you what to use or what not to use....call Nissan, and ask for their recommendations. My bet (I already know the answer, because I've asked Nissan) is they will say to use anything that has the recommended weights per the owners manual. Nissan does not say you need synthetic, nor do they say you need dino oil...to them, either is fine. I won't push one brand of oil over another...I am frankly of the opinion that on a stock car, or your typical Z with normal bolt ons, it makes absolutely zero difference.

These cars have very tight tolerances, for a factory motor, and that is why idle oil pressure is high when the car is cold. I've never seen any VQ making 120 psi at idle though...only when the car is dead cold, in the winter, and you initially step into the gas. Once the car warms up, that pressure drops dramatically, but yes, the car does have higher oil pressure than many other cars on the market

 

Just one thing.... Nissan wants us to buy more cars, they don't what an engine that will last longer. Thus asking Nissan for an advice on this is … uhh pointless, to use a better word.



So I guess my question remains. Is there any known harm that may come from using the Motul 300v in a VQ engine…..

 

I'm sorry but that is among the most ignorant things I've ever read on this, or any forum.

Nissan has a warranty program....which costs them money out of pocket every time it is implemented. I think it is great that Nissan does NOT cow tow to the big oil companies and instead says "use whatever you want, so long as you use "x" amount and a weight range of "y", per your owners manual.

How is someone telling you "yes that oil is great use it", going to help you if your motor blows? What if I told you I was not changing my filter, ever, and my motor has gone 60k miles, has no consumption issues, no leaks, and the car gets as good of gas mileage today as it did when I bought it. How does that help you? The point is, motors don't blow up because of the oil you use. Lack of maintenance, lack of care, stupidity, carelessness, and sometimes just bad luck are what blown motors are made from.

I've got more money invested in my motor than most people have in total other mods to their car (and no, I don't have money to burn)...and I don't stress about the type of oil I am using it. I happen to use what I use because it's given to me at no cost.

Based on a previous post, you are using the Motul....so why don't you tell us how it is? I'm sure its a fine product....they are a 150 year old company afterall. I completely understand and appreciate that a car is a major expenditure and as such you want to treat it with the best stuff you can, but at the same time, so long as you use a product from a known entity, per the owners manual, I am sure you'll be just fine in the short and long run.