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Old 08-29-2007, 06:05 AM
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RebelinRI
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Originally Posted by Tac-M
Just one thing.... Nissan wants us to buy more cars, they don't what an engine that will last longer. Thus asking Nissan for an advice on this is … uhh pointless, to use a better word.



So I guess my question remains. Is there any known harm that may come from using the Motul 300v in a VQ engine…..
So who told you to use Motul???? Oh wait you saw an article. Better yet, you read it on the INTERNET............ Man I wish would have taken marketing in school. I'd have a freezer in every eskimo's house by now.
Old 08-29-2007, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by RebelinRI
So who told you to use Motul???? Oh wait you saw an article. Better yet, you read it on the INTERNET............ Man I wish would have taken marketing in school. I'd have a freezer in every eskimo's house by now.

this guy told me to use motul.... so that makes me a looser who belives in the marketing hype !

Old 08-29-2007, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Tac-M
Just one thing.... Nissan wants us to buy more cars, they don't what an engine that will last longer. Thus asking Nissan for an advice on this is … uhh pointless, to use a better word.



So I guess my question remains. Is there any known harm that may come from using the Motul 300v in a VQ engine…..
Dont think Motul makes a 5W30 300V motor oil....

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store/home.php?cat=278

Motul, Amsoil, Royal purple are known to be better oils and do not break down as easily as mobil 1 or some other oils...
Old 08-29-2007, 06:21 AM
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oh trust me, they do make 5w30... http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/motuloil.html
Old 08-29-2007, 06:25 AM
  #65  
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Ohhhhh I love that pic. I'm using Motul too. Yeah I have it in the tranny and rear end now. I can't wait to get it out of the tranny. Cold weather start up are horrible. Whines like a school girl until it gets warm, harder to shift and more times than not, grinds going into 2nd gear. Back Nissan fluids I go, but hopefully my engine will last. BTW you called yourself a loser, not I.
Old 08-29-2007, 06:28 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Tac-M
this guy told me to use motul.... so that makes me a looser who belives in the marketing hype !


So I guess your rebuild your engine every 100 miles like this car? Short term oil use for racing engines has nothing to do with longterm (3,000 +) in our engines.

Through anything you want to in your car. Just becareful when dealing with mass opinions. Why does everyone think twin turbo is the best for our cars? Who says that? Mostly shops that install them.$$$$$$$$$ Ask the Toyota Supra guys if twin turbo is a necessity? And they only run 3.0 liters!

Again...if youre racing your car and rebuilding your engine with fresh parts every 100 miles... then certain oils are better, nut if you are driving to and from work, sitting in 90+ degrees with the A/C on...thats a completely different animal.
Old 08-29-2007, 06:37 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by RebelinRI
Ohhhhh I love that pic. I'm using Motul too. Yeah I have it in the tranny and rear end now. I can't wait to get it out of the tranny. Cold weather start up are horrible. Whines like a school girl until it gets warm, harder to shift and more times than not, grinds going into 2nd gear. Back Nissan fluids I go, but hopefully my engine will last. BTW you called yourself a loser, not I.

I know exactly about your problem with the trany... I had the same problem with redline mt90... luckily I live in the warm climate, so it only bothers me for a month or so. BTW, I like motul in my trany a lot more then redline


As for Nissan… I don’t take my car ( cars ) to the dealer unless it is the only option. I had a few scares with them, so no mass….. ever !
Old 08-29-2007, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 4SHIZZIL G-SPOT
So I guess your rebuild your engine every 100 miles like this car? Short term oil use for racing engines has nothing to do with longterm (3,000 +) in our engines.

Again...if youre racing your car and rebuilding your engine with fresh parts every 100 miles... then certain oils are better, nut if you are driving to and from work, sitting in 90+ degrees with the A/C on...thats a completely different animal.

That sitting in 100+ with a/c on is exactly the reason I went with motul.... also 24hr lemans is not exactly a "sexy time " for any oil... so 100 miles ??? i don't know about that...
Old 08-29-2007, 06:42 AM
  #69  
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Everybody has their Fav, that's good! But to say that Nissan wants our motors to die on us, is crazy. At least I hope. With all the companies out there making what they hope will be the next best thing, is good for us. All I'm saying is talk to people, read stuff and try a few. What works good for me might be a POS for you.
Old 08-29-2007, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tac-M
That sitting in 100+ with a/c on is exactly the reason I went with motul.... also 24hr lemans is not exactly a "sexy time " for any oil... so 100 miles ??? i don't know about that...
Ferarris only use Shell Fuel in F1...should I now only get Shell gas? Idemitsu, a company I'd bet 99% of people here never ever heard of, won at Lemans too....so what? Audi has won outright LeMans with diesel motors...maybe we should convert our Z's to that? Do you think the oil that the one Nissan JGTC you show above runs has anything remotely in common with your car? Matter of fact, do you think it's even a Z?

The point is, this is hair splitting of hair splitting. All of the manufacturers have vast useage in all forms of motorsport, and for good reason. It is a natural progression, and relatively low cost way to market. And when it comes down to it, marketing is the primary function organized, big budget motorsports serves for all parties involved - from manufacturers, to sponsors to teams.

Last edited by Z1 Performance; 08-29-2007 at 06:58 AM.
Old 08-29-2007, 06:51 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by RebelinRI
Everybody has their Fav, that's good! But to say that Nissan wants our motors to die on us, is crazy. At least I hope. With all the companies out there making what they hope will be the next best thing, is good for us. All I'm saying is talk to people, read stuff and try a few. What works good for me might be a POS for you.
This will describe my theory of planned obsolescence a little better... this applies to all manufacturers, not just Nissan. So you can say that I’m ignorant or what not... but the earth is not flat.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence
Old 08-29-2007, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Tac-M
This will describe my theory of planned obsolescence a little better... this applies to all manufacturers, not just Nissan. So you can say that I’m ignorant or what not... but the earth is not flat.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence
quoting a wiki is just about the worst way to prove a point....
Old 08-29-2007, 06:55 AM
  #73  
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what eva... it is easier then trying to write a page of stuff that would get the same response....
Old 08-29-2007, 06:56 AM
  #74  
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This is getting OT. So I won't respond anymore. If you feel good, then great. WE and I say WE keep asking questions until we hear the answer we want. That's just us. You be good and drive the speed limit with your seat belt on! Peace.
Old 08-29-2007, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RebelinRI
This is getting OT. So I won't respond anymore. If you feel good, then great. WE and I say WE keep asking questions until we hear the answer we want. That's just us. You be good and drive the speed limit with your seat belt on! Peace.
spoken like someone over 30

I'm done too lol
Old 08-29-2007, 08:36 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
I cant tell you what to use or what not to use....call Nissan, and ask for their recommendations. My bet (I already know the answer, because I've asked Nissan) is they will say to use anything that has the recommended weights per the owners manual. Nissan does not say you need synthetic, nor do they say you need dino oil...to them, either is fine. I won't push one brand of oil over another...I am frankly of the opinion that on a stock car, or your typical Z with normal bolt ons, it makes absolutely zero difference.

These cars have very tight tolerances, for a factory motor, and that is why idle oil pressure is high when the car is cold. I've never seen any VQ making 120 psi at idle though...only when the car is dead cold, in the winter, and you initially step into the gas. Once the car warms up, that pressure drops dramatically, but yes, the car does have higher oil pressure than many other cars on the market

Hmm when the Z is switched to Synthetic Oil on a cold start the car idles at 120psi pressure but the idle is high.

I have seen many Z's switch,to synthetic and show the high oil pressure afterwards. Pretty common.
Old 08-29-2007, 08:39 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by 03redlineZ
Dont think Motul makes a 5W30 300V motor oil....

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store/home.php?cat=278

Motul, Amsoil, Royal purple are known to be better oils and do not break down as easily as mobil 1 or some other oils...

I have seen tests on BITOG forums that show RP breaking down and not recommended especially for the VQ.
Old 08-29-2007, 11:23 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by THE TECH
I always thought 0w was too light for FI applications. I'm running Redline 10w40 on mine. Recently changed from M1.
0W, 5W, 10W.. if anything I'd go with the 0W, but maybe it's warm enough where you live not to make a difference. The cold cranking weight has nothing to do with the hot viscosity. There is a FAQ on the first page of the oil sticky that explains this further.

Will
Old 08-29-2007, 11:58 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
what works on one type of engine is not always well suited for another
So very true.

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
Amsoil, ironically, uses their own type of additive called ZDDP - performs a very similar function to a moly based oil, just a different overal chemical makeup, and as such, they tout it as the next coming.
ZDDP isn't an Amsoil additve, it's been used since the 1950's in many oils. Heavy Duty Motor Oils will use the most since they aren't worried about emissions compliance and take full advantage of the AW/FM properties in low spead/high load situations. ZDDP has been shown to destroy cat converters in several tests. As such, newer European standards set by ILSAC require a continued reduction of ZDDP in passenger car motor oils.

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
The long and short of it is that in the end, both Moly and Non Moly oils work just fine. The key is instead to use the right viscosity for the engine's useage, including the temperature and conditions its operated in, and the rpm that it spends most of its time in, use the proper amount of oil for that engine, and change the oil and filter and regular intervals. Touting which oil you use just lets people belong to one group or another, which is an important part of human nature.
I like the philisophical approach to choosing an oil to belong, but what does that make those of us who change oil brands and viscosity just for the fun of it? ...maybe I don't want to know.

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
even "testing" oils has its limitations....as the state of tune of the car has a tremendous affect on the properties the oil will exhibit after use
This is true for built or FI cars, but not for the majority of the Z drivers that visit these forums. Even re-flashed ECU's won't alter the oil pattern in a UOA. Shushikiary is a good example. He posted two UOA's using two different oils that were not very impressive. He switched to an oil that has good UOA results from other 350Z drivers around the country, and his next UOA was right in line with the posted results of that oil. The fact that he's in Denver and sees colder climates than any of the other drivers that used that oil didn't alter the trends one bit. Nor did his driving style being different, nor did his mileage each way to work, or any of the other difference that exist between drivers. There are several people besides myself who have used the same oil as another 350Z owner in another part of the country, and found similar results for the mileage.
The fact is, an engine oil is not that sensitive to say that because one person drives their Z hard x number of miles a day in TX, that the same oil will be radically different than how it performs in my ride in CO. Even with bolt-on mods and a re-flash. This has been shown. As long as it's the same block, same oil pump, same tolerances, and everything else that's the same between two stock block VQ's- then there is a certain amount of control involved. If it's FI and/or built- then all bets are off and use what your builder has recommended.

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
no matter what oil you choose, I am a firm believe in using what the engine assembler/manufacturer recommends, using a name brand, with a good filter and changing it often. It's what I myself have always done, and I have never, in 17 years, blown a motor due to any oil issues, from 2 strokes to V8's, under all sorts of conditions and mileage and level of tune.
Well, yeah- that should be obvious advice to anyone, and there's a thousand things to go wrong with your engine before any API certified oil causes a failure. Unless you're running olive oil in your engine, it will "be fine". But some oils definately perform better in this engine than others. I don't think I "push" any oils on anyone. I have a list of recommended oils that have shown good results. I will stand by a UOA from the engine the oil is being used in way before I consider word-of-mouth and subjective tests. I think others would too, so the data is available. Will using one oil in place of another signal the coming destruction of your engine? Of course not. But not all work equally well, either. For those who care, there are better oils out there to pick from than some hyped brand with bad results.

Will
Old 08-29-2007, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Tac-M
Just one thing.... Nissan wants us to buy more cars, they don't what an engine that will last longer. Thus asking Nissan for an advice on this is … uhh pointless, to use a better word.



So I guess my question remains. Is there any known harm that may come from using the Motul 300v in a VQ engine…..
Check the results of Motul 300V 5W-30 in the UOA sticky. You could do better for the money. Hands down. I'm waiting to see another weight of Motul come back in from testing from another member, but the 5W-30 is less than inspiring for the cash spent.

Will
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