Project ARC..Engine bay build in progress..
08-06-2007, 12:22 PM
#81
Originally Posted by vo7848
I just caught the edit...
I clipped out the big pieces of the grill 1st. Then I put an emery wheel cutter on the Dremmel, cranked it to 8k rpm, then made a fine cut about 1/16 inch from the edge where the black plastic meets the painted portion of the bumper. After I cut all the way around, I used a steel file to smoothen & level out all the edges...
I clipped out the big pieces of the grill 1st. Then I put an emery wheel cutter on the Dremmel, cranked it to 8k rpm, then made a fine cut about 1/16 inch from the edge where the black plastic meets the painted portion of the bumper. After I cut all the way around, I used a steel file to smoothen & level out all the edges...
08-06-2007, 12:24 PM
#82
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: america
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by vo7848
I hear ya. The only thing that has stopped me from going FI is seeing all the hardaches my team mates go through. I seen it all from their car not starting & over heating problems to blowing their engines under normal driving normal. I'm more on the conservative, play it on the safe side type of guy.
And how the hell are you gonna overheat with that $1700 oil cooler?!
Last edited by saberphx; 08-06-2007 at 12:27 PM.
08-06-2007, 12:29 PM
#83
Originally Posted by vo7848
I hear ya. The only thing that has stopped me from going FI is seeing all the hardaches my team mates go through. I seen it all from their car not starting & over heating problems to blowing their engines under normal driving normal. I'm more on the conservative, play it on the safe side type of guy.
I'm kind of with you, but for me it's mostly that I just don't have that kind of money for F/I on a graduate student's salary
In fact I was thinking, my next car may be a BMW 335i, turn up the boost and get some test pipes/big exhaust. Factory turbos... drool
08-06-2007, 12:44 PM
#84
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by saberphx
Aww c'mon! You know you want to! Besides, blow a motor and just grab a new one for 1k. The fun part is putting it all together
And how the hell are you gonna overheat with that $1700 oil cooler?!
And how the hell are you gonna overheat with that $1700 oil cooler?!
Man, you're right. Like someone said before in another thread, I should be running sub-zero temps now.
08-06-2007, 12:45 PM
#85
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
I'm kind of with you, but for me it's mostly that I just don't have that kind of money for F/I
08-06-2007, 12:48 PM
#86
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
So basically your front grill is just a big hole now instead of horizontal slats... got any pics from like 6 ft away?
08-06-2007, 12:57 PM
#87
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
10W-30 versus 5W-30 probably won't make a huge difference either way... but given that your oil should be running cooler you probably can get away with lighter weight oils, like the 0W-30 synthetics etc
The mobile 1 0w-40 sythetic seems like a good choice also.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/258663-vq-oil-analysis-and-info.html
08-07-2007, 06:27 AM
#90
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by MethodRN
Looks great buddy, can't wait to see it in person.
08-07-2007, 06:39 AM
#91
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Last night I picked up some 6 qts. of Mobile 1 0w-40 and the K&N HP1008 filer. The K&N was the same diameter as my previous filer that fit on the OEM location and threaded on wobbly also. In the end though, when I tightened it down all the way. It provided a good seal that did not leak.
In the picture below you can see(yellow arrow) the gap I was concerned with. The rubber seal on the filter sits right on the edge of the inner lip of the ARC mount.
In the picture below you can see(yellow arrow) the gap I was concerned with. The rubber seal on the filter sits right on the edge of the inner lip of the ARC mount.
08-07-2007, 07:03 AM
#92
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
The car took 5 1/2 qts of oil. Not a big increase from factory levels. After starting it up, I let it run for about 10mins or so to reach normal operating temp. I did not drive the car, I just let it run idle until it warmed up. In the pic below the red line indicates the psi the engine leveled out to after it warmed up in the garage.
After it warmed up I took it out for a test drive. After driving under full load for about 15mins, you can see the pressure dropped even more.
I've also included a pic of the temperature after the tst drive.
After it warmed up I took it out for a test drive. After driving under full load for about 15mins, you can see the pressure dropped even more.
I've also included a pic of the temperature after the tst drive.
08-07-2007, 07:12 AM
#93
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
One observation I made while driving. There is audiable engine whine now that wasn't present previously. I am not sure of the exact cause of this, but suspect it to be the new grade of oil I am running. Theoretically I'd assume the engine would run more quiet on account of the 0w-40 having a higher vicosity than the 5w-30 after reaching normal operating temp. This isn't the case though. The engine whine has me wondering if I made the right decision to go with 0w-40. As previously stated I'm not an afficionado on engine oil, I research as best I can then try to make a sound decision based on what I read.
A couple other post observations I made.
1. The oil cooler gets extremely hot.
2. You can hear the oil cirrculating through the cooler if you stand infront of the car. It sounds kinda cool.
I'm wondering what the impact would be if your driving on a hot day, the oil cooler gets to it's normal hot condition, then it rains all of a sudden? Everyone knows cooling very hot metal really quick can cause it to crack or warp.
Please comment on what you guys think.
A couple other post observations I made.
1. The oil cooler gets extremely hot.
2. You can hear the oil cirrculating through the cooler if you stand infront of the car. It sounds kinda cool.
I'm wondering what the impact would be if your driving on a hot day, the oil cooler gets to it's normal hot condition, then it rains all of a sudden? Everyone knows cooling very hot metal really quick can cause it to crack or warp.
Please comment on what you guys think.
08-07-2007, 07:47 AM
#94
Sorry I haven't read the thread all the way through, I just follow the link you sent.
First off, I'm not sure what kind of sound you're hearing now. A whining sound? Is it new, or was it there before and is louder now? I didn't notice my engine being louder when I tried the M1 0W-40, and no one else has mentioned it to me. I did notice the timing chain rattle was more frequent when I used it, but it was also during winter here in Colorado. The M1 0W-40 is a little thicker than a 5W-30 would be when it gets to temp, so I'm not sure if the oil is to blame for the sound. That being said, the UOA's done on it shows the M1 0W-40 to protect very well.
The Rotella T-Syn I'm trying now really quieted the engine. I suspect an insanely high amount of ZDDP in this oil is the reason it is so quiet. Maybe worth a shot later in your car. I should have a UOA done on it in the next month or so, and we'll see how well it protects. The problem is, with all the ZDDP in the oil and it being a HDMO, the oil will cause extra ash deposit over a regular passenger car motor oil. There's always a trade-off. In your case, it might be a noisier engine but a well-protected one with the M1 0W-40. If the noise bothers you, there are other oils that have shown very good results as well. I'm sure you saw them in the UOA sticky. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll see if I can answer them for you.
As far as your cooler, it was installed with the line fittings upright to allow air to escape, right? If so, then you're all set. The cooler design allows a lot of surface area for cooling efficiency, which means there is a lot of room for expansion and contraction wihtout breaking the joints. I wouldn't worry about it getting a splash of cold water.
Will
First off, I'm not sure what kind of sound you're hearing now. A whining sound? Is it new, or was it there before and is louder now? I didn't notice my engine being louder when I tried the M1 0W-40, and no one else has mentioned it to me. I did notice the timing chain rattle was more frequent when I used it, but it was also during winter here in Colorado. The M1 0W-40 is a little thicker than a 5W-30 would be when it gets to temp, so I'm not sure if the oil is to blame for the sound. That being said, the UOA's done on it shows the M1 0W-40 to protect very well.
The Rotella T-Syn I'm trying now really quieted the engine. I suspect an insanely high amount of ZDDP in this oil is the reason it is so quiet. Maybe worth a shot later in your car. I should have a UOA done on it in the next month or so, and we'll see how well it protects. The problem is, with all the ZDDP in the oil and it being a HDMO, the oil will cause extra ash deposit over a regular passenger car motor oil. There's always a trade-off. In your case, it might be a noisier engine but a well-protected one with the M1 0W-40. If the noise bothers you, there are other oils that have shown very good results as well. I'm sure you saw them in the UOA sticky. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll see if I can answer them for you.
As far as your cooler, it was installed with the line fittings upright to allow air to escape, right? If so, then you're all set. The cooler design allows a lot of surface area for cooling efficiency, which means there is a lot of room for expansion and contraction wihtout breaking the joints. I wouldn't worry about it getting a splash of cold water.
Will
08-07-2007, 08:23 AM
#95
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: denver
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just so you know Vo, your oil PSI at idle after a complete warm up (driving for 15 min) is what my car has also had ever since I've used synthetic oil, so I dont think it's a problem at all.
08-07-2007, 08:40 AM
#96
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by Resolute
Sorry I haven't read the thread all the way through, I just follow the link you sent.
First off, I'm not sure what kind of sound you're hearing now. A whining sound? Is it new, or was it there before and is louder now? I didn't notice my engine being louder when I tried the M1 0W-40, and no one else has mentioned it to me. I did notice the timing chain rattle was more frequent when I used it, but it was also during winter here in Colorado.
First off, I'm not sure what kind of sound you're hearing now. A whining sound? Is it new, or was it there before and is louder now? I didn't notice my engine being louder when I tried the M1 0W-40, and no one else has mentioned it to me. I did notice the timing chain rattle was more frequent when I used it, but it was also during winter here in Colorado.
The M1 0W-40 is a little thicker than a 5W-30 would be when it gets to temp, so I'm not sure if the oil is to blame for the sound. That being said, the UOA's done on it shows the M1 0W-40 to protect very well.
In your case, it might be a noisier engine but a well-protected one with the M1 0W-40. If the noise bothers you, there are other oils that have shown very good results as well. I'm sure you saw them in the UOA sticky. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll see if I can answer them for you.
As far as your cooler, it was installed with the line fittings upright to allow air to escape, right? If so, then you're all set.
There are detailed pictures of all the fittings in the previous pages of this thread if you'd like to review then let me know what you think.
The cooler design allows a lot of surface area for cooling efficiency, which means there is a lot of room for expansion and contraction wihtout breaking the joints. I wouldn't worry about it getting a splash of cold water.
Will
Will
This is good to know. Thank you for all the valuable info you have provided.
08-07-2007, 08:53 AM
#97
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by shushikiary
Just so you know Vo, your oil PSI at idle after a complete warm up (driving for 15 min) is what my car has also had ever since I've used synthetic oil, so I dont think it's a problem at all.
08-07-2007, 08:55 AM
#98
I just looked at the cooler, and saw that the lines enter parallel into the end caps. That's unique. Looks nice, btw. Like it's a little intercooler.
The 0W will aid in engine protection during start-up over a higher grade cold weight. This is because it is thinner and flows easier than a 5W or 10W can. So, when you start the engine, the 0W flows faster and is pumped easier through the engine than a 5W, and this helps protection when cold. That's the beauty of a 0W oil.
I'm curious about the sound. Maybe it has more to do with the cooler than the oil, I don't know. I can second what Shushikiary said, my oil psi is also identical to what you show.
Will
The 0W will aid in engine protection during start-up over a higher grade cold weight. This is because it is thinner and flows easier than a 5W or 10W can. So, when you start the engine, the 0W flows faster and is pumped easier through the engine than a 5W, and this helps protection when cold. That's the beauty of a 0W oil.
I'm curious about the sound. Maybe it has more to do with the cooler than the oil, I don't know. I can second what Shushikiary said, my oil psi is also identical to what you show.
Will
08-07-2007, 09:02 AM
#99
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by Resolute
I just looked at the cooler, and saw that the lines enter parallel into the end caps. That's unique. Looks nice, btw. Like it's a little intercooler.
The 0W will aid in engine protection during start-up over a higher grade cold weight. This is because it is thinner and flows easier than a 5W or 10W can. So, when you start the engine, the 0W flows faster and is pumped easier through the engine than a 5W, and this helps protection when cold. That's the beauty of a 0W oil.
I'm curious about the sound. Maybe it has more to do with the cooler than the oil, I don't know. I can second what Shushikiary said, my oil psi is also identical to what you show.
I'm sure the oil is cirrculating properly, otherwise the cooler wouldn't retain so much heat and my engine would've probably overheated during the 15min test drive last night. We'll see how everything pans out.
Last edited by VO...; 08-07-2007 at 09:07 AM.
08-07-2007, 09:08 AM
#100
Yeah, on most coolers the lines run into the top of the cooler end caps, perpendicular to the cooling rows. This allows air to escape the system. On yours, they run straight into the center of the end caps, parallel to the cooling rows. It sounds like you didn't prime or fill the cooler and lines prior to start-up, so I could see some air trapped in the cooler ends. That would cause some extra sound for sure if that is the case.
Will
Will