I have an 05 Redline Z with less than 10k on it
I hate the feel of the clutch... I have to let it out all the way before it grabs!!
I've searched the forums and can't find any info on how to adjust the clutch. can anyone give me some insight on how to adjust my clutch pedal. and also any recommendations on aftermarket clutches? I heard someone offers a clutch with a lifetime warranty, but I forget who it is from?
any help is appreciated
thanks!

 

check this thread

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/288582-diy-clutch-stopper-aka-free-d-wolf-clutch-kit.html

 

I've seen that post before, but instead of taping pennnies to the back of my pedal is there any way to actually adjust the pedal? I don't really get what the spacer does on the bakc of the pedal.. when it depresses the button that the pedal pushes.. is that what diesengages the clutch??

 

The pedal has a very very limited range of adjustment - nothing that is going to dramatically change things at all. The adjustment that is there is just to bring the slave back to it's sweet spot. Don't bother trying it honestly - it causes more harm than good and once you fiddle with it once, you'll constantly be redoing it

The idea of a spacer on the back of the pedal will allow the clutch to disengage lower. It essentially is making the pedal assembly thicker, which in turn reduces the amount of travel the pedal has before it engages/disengages, but does so without affecting the slave cylinder at all (since you're not changing rod length)

 

if u climb under ur dash board, on most cars there is a nut that adjusts the clutch, u kinda have to push the clutch in with ur hand to where u want it set then, tightened the nut down, it brings the clutch pedal closer to the floor a bit, but it also makes the clutch engagement alot closer, its usually a brass colored nut, almost gold colored, let me kno how it works out for you

 

as mentioned, that's exactly the part you DON"T want to touch - it works fine on some cars, this car ain't one of them

 

Z1 performance, I appreciate all of your great help
one more question for ya before I go do the spacer mod making the pedal assembly thicker with the spacers doesnt that make it so essentially you can't push the pedal all the way too, so won't that be hard when shifting and what not.. I wanna make sure the clutch is fully disengaged when I shift, cuz the other day I got an awful grind between first and second.. I'm just trying to take care of my baby

 

I have yet to install this on my own car (Hvae one waiting to go in) but my understanding through reading about it is that it makes it so that the end of the travel range of the pedal with the spacers installed is just below the point of engagement. I wouldn't really worry too much about disengagement, as my experiece is that it takes far less pedal effort to disengage the clutch as to does to engage it to the next gear.

From everything I know about the spacers, it seems like an easy way to accomplish what you're looking to do without having to alter the length of the rod.

 

I just did the spacer mod using the nail on glides a few days ago. If you follow the intsructions exactly, it works flawlessly and there are absolutely no problems engaging and disengaging the clutch. I'm very happy with the outcome.

 

how come adjusting the clutch on the Z is different from adjusting it on any other car?

 

because the slave on this car has a very narrow range which is the sweet spot between proper engagement and disengagement

 

Just buy the real D-Wolf kit and do it right.
a $30,000 car and they're stacking up pennies ... LOL!
PM me.

 

you really need to lower your price point. maybe then people would stop ripping off your ideas.

 

It depends on how much money your time is worth.
If your time is worth less than $45, you can definitely make the spacer mod yourself and save a couple bucks.
If your time is worth more than $45, you could buy it from RedondoG and save yourself the hassle.

 

People are still buying the kits.
Maybe they don't want to waste the time going to home depot and hunting for parts.
Maybe they want something they know will work on the first shot.
Maybe they don't want to put cr@p on their $30,000 cars.

 

I dont reccomend adjusting that with pennies or even thru the bolt method. I tried both and think it did more harm then good. Just my .02. I may have had a bad pressure plate to begin with but making such adjustments might have made it worse. Also the manual is real specific to press the clutch all the way down. By using the pennies method your completely going against the what the manufacturer reccomends.

Also got the DWolf Kit and its consists of some cheap parts from Home Depot. If there really was an aftermarket world for this dont you think someone like JWT or any performance shops would have come up with this solution? Solution if you want a different feeling for your clutch you need a different clutch.