someone can do it in 1-2 hours if they know what they're doing and "rock" the engine from side to side without removing it

 

good to know. Thx sentry.

 

As I said a few posts back +111 Its apples and oranges with the solid mounts as far a drivability feel---I was Fabbing Solids 30 yrs ago.

And I repeat AGAIN ...There is no reason to pull the motor. A good man with the proper equip. and knew how to USE that equip. could install a set in 2 hours his first time

 

I fully agree. IMO, with how rough the Z idles to begin with you will not see a huge difference between solid and rubber mount in the comfortability area but you will see huge differences when it comes to acceleration and shifting. The difference is very noticable even on a stock motor.

 

Yes ---common sense. The Motor and the Chassis become ONE. Instead of the motor floating on a cloud waiting to put down torque to the rear wheels, when it feels like it.

Mounts are like shock absorbing flywheels----comfort, not efficiency

One of these days, when I have the time, I'll fab a trans mount for a laugh.

What has to be considered though with High HP (500+ range) is possibly mods/replacement of the CF D/Shaft. I would possibly opt to have an aluminum one made with dimensioning...as half Shafts (axle Shafts)

 

Good to know. when you say 'rock' the engine, could it be done from underneath with a jack on one side, then the other? Or is the crowbar method best?

 

The best way..and not getting into overkill is using a cherry picker engine hoist, breaking the mounts loose, raising the motor, then R@R the mounts.

But where there is a will, there is a way

 

The reason I say this is because with that method, its a little easier for the motor to find its way "home" in its cradle when you lower and tighten.

It WANTS to center itself naturally, but a straight lift and straight drop helps it

 

Ok I'm buying solid mounts this week ....I have a cherry picker so install should be a breeze I hope. I really wish that someone made poly mounts though, megans just seem way over priced

 

When I recently asked Sharif how easy it would be to install the Forged solid mounts, his response was that it's not a do-it-yourself job. If someone who has done it, without pulling the engine, could post some instructions, I would really appreciate it.

 

Check these out.
http://www.svrtechnologies.com/7.html
I'm still curious what the negatives would be if installing these solid mounts. There has got to be a catch???

 

I have SVRT solid engine mounts and don't have anything negative to say abiut them other than engine noise is no longer isolated to the engine and it is a little louder in the car.

JET

 

+1
only other thing negative might be there might be a chance the mounts could possibly come slightly loose over time and need to be tightened back down

the added "vibration" really isn't anything at all. My wife didn't even notice it and even when I tried to point it out, she didn't think it was any different

makes the car so much more solid and connected feeling

the same could almost be said for solid diff mounts, but they didn't make nearly as much noticeable change as the motor mounts. Mainly that I got more feedback from my clutch and less rear vagueness

 

If your a true performance driver, there are no negatives, only positives in solids----The SVRs are around 120.00

 

Good to see this thread back from the dead. I never ended up getting the Megan mounts. Since my new oil pan wont clear the GT Spec bracing anyway, I am just going to run solid mounts.

 

Just keep in mind the SVRs do lower the engine 1/4 inch ---The Plus on that is you can run the 1/2 inch spacer with stock strut

 

How come the Megan motor mounts are 3 pieces and everyone else's are 2 pieces? What is the purpose of that 3rd piece?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Megan...sid=p1638.m118

 

Did you use the shims that are included??? Do you think that if you did use the shims, you would be able to fit the Gt Spec frame braces?

 

Thanks for the feedback Jet.
So bottom line it...knowing what you know now, would you recommend for it or against it, or is it of little significance? did you have to re-tighten it? What did you torque it to?

 

you cant shim the front lower arm bar - it does not fit larger oil pans