Hey all,
I am completing a rebuild and for the moment I am running NA. When refilling all the vehicle vital fluids I took care in making sure that everything was up to spec, however when it came to power steering fluid, I fell a little short. My excitement in getting her started was overwhelming and got the best of me. So I did the "Unthinkable"!! I added a "cheapo" power steering fluid to a quality Synthetic Valvoline power steering fluid brand since I didn't have enough of the Valvoline Synthetic on hand, and what a mess. Now the Power steering pump is clicking (looking for fluid I think) and when I open up the reservoir, it looks like a foam mess, very frothy, almost like a pink latte from Starbucks.
Anyway, now I want to flush the old fluid and foam and I need some advice on exactly how is the best & most effective way to do it. Drain from the bottom? Bottom and cooler? Whatever.
I need to know how can I pump out the junk that is in there now?
Your advice is welcome.

Thank you.

 

PS pumps have a HP side and a LP side. Just take off the LP side at a strategic location, extend if necessary and start the motor with the line in a container of proportionate size. Turn the wheel and add good fluid etc etc until it is flushed.

It would be wise to empty the reservoir first to get some out and then fill it to the top

Turning the wheel almost lock to lock will flush the R@P

 

At least I have something to work with now. Thanks Eazzy.

 

A note ----If the system was empty, then you added fluid, it will go through a foaming stage until all the air is purged no matter what fluid you put in it.

You need to get rid of the "unthinkable" (which apparently, you thought of) but it may very well just be doing what it should be doing....purging air.

 

If you don't feel comfortable running the power steering pump dry - Another way to flush it is to:

1) Use a gear oil pump, or turkey baster, to suck the fluid out of the reservoir
2) Fill it back up with fresh ATF fluid
3) Drive it around a few miles
4) Repeat steps 1~3 a couple more times

The whole loop only has about a 1 quart capacity. But I wish there was a drain petcock in the loop somewhere~

 

Are you sure about the ATF? Automatic Transmission Fluid? I mean, fluid is fluid, but not always...
I think since the system was completely dry it may very well be purging air, thanks Eazzy.

I think I will try to drain it from the bottom, remove what is in the reservoir and try to add fresh fluid today to see if that fixes it. In the past, I was able to add fluid, turn the wheel lock to lock a few times and she was good to go. The difference today is that I drained the system at the bottom since I kinked one of the hard lines and hard to remove it to replace it. So the system could be EMPTY and full of air as well.

Thanks guys.

 

Yeah, the manual calls for dextron-3 ATF. It also says so on the power steering cap.

 

Wow I didn't catch that. I have a print a printout from the dealership, but I must have missed that.
Thanks for sharing. I appreciate the detail. Maybe I'll just get the dealer fluid, but I was thinking of something with a higher boiling temp, which is why I opted for synthetic.

 

Actually Dextron ATF is recommended if you look on your PS lid. ATF is simply a low viscosity, high detergent, anti foaming hydraulic fluid with a red dye. No different than engine oil, except for viscosity and the additives.

Why they recommend it, I dont know....I use PS fluid, its clear. No matter---Its a hydraulic system......It would work at least for awhile with tap water in it.

A synthetic with a higher boiling point should be fine.

Point is ...as you relize, just get a good fluid in there thats clean and uncontaminated by other fluids

There are some fluids that are rough on o-rings, but todays o-rings are either Viton or silicone so they will handle most anything

 

Thanks for the info.
Once drained, I don't want to hurt anything, but I am tempted to blast any foreign (cheapo) fluid out of the system by blasting some compressed air in there before starting to replenish the system with clean fluid. I don't want to hurt the PS sensor, and it would not be a closed system push. I would blow air thru the base of the reservoir/or down a hose and out thru the open connection at the bottom of the system.
Do you see any potential negative side effects of doing this? I just want to rid the system of the bad fluid.

 

No reason for overkill....Dont be fliipin valves with comped air ----Just flush it till what ever your using is clearly through the system.. Iv done this more than just a few times

 

10-4. Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

 

The red dye is added because it is temperature sensitive and desaturates when overheated. White paper towel test lets you see the degradation in comparing new to old color.

Fancy PS fluid is Mobil 1 Syn ATF, when only the best is good enough.

Redline sells a more viscous High Temp ATF for summer use.

 

I was going to change my to Amsoil we I add my larger cooler this spring. So thanks for the tips

 

Also dont forget that the high and low pressure lines run real close to the pass side turbo......so a synthetic is not a bad idea.Since my greddy oil feed line rubbed a hole in my low pressure line i decided to heat wrap the lines.
Btw the line assembly is a one piece design and not cheap and a total pita to replace....i would def wrap it.

 

Changed fluid to the ATF as described above and worked flawlessly. No more thumping P.S. pump noise and all is running well.
Thank you guys for the awesome feedback.

 

This is how I do it,,but

DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE VERY LONG, LIKE MORE THAN 5 SECONDS.

As all the fluid will purge VERY QUICKLY,,,and the Pump may be damaged if run "dry" very long.

Also, the fluid will escape at high pressure and spray everywhere if you don't secure the purge container..... I learned this the hard way and covered my garage and the front of my car with PS fluid when my catch bottle blew off.


BTW: I disconnect the PS cooler line and ran a hose from there to a Milk jug.

 

thanks for the tips eazy... will definitely help... i am changing fluids this spring (soon)....

I am thinking about upgrading the oil cooler when I do the ps fluid (will be running wider tires soon)... the nismo cooler doesn't really look any different than stock... unlike the stillen.... and the stillen is cheaper.... any suggestions here?

 

This is the one I have, its twice the size of the factory one and fits in its place.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Have used this method with all my cars.. takes little longer, but pretty well guaranteed to not mess anything up- and gets out probably 95% of the contaminents/ old fluids.