jwt flywheel and clutch install problems.
06-10-2008, 04:12 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by kramykram
the problem was not in my work but it someone else. which i don't even think he knows or realizes what he did was causing the problems. but all is good.
in your original post you stated you did the work--now someone else did it? which is it?
if you messed something up, man up and say so--we all do it, but don't blame someone else or try to play it off like you didn't do it.
i'm still confused on some things though.
1) why the living hell did you have to extend the slave push rod? that makes no sense to me whatsoever.
2) why would you round off the pivot ball? its already round.
3) what does idts mean?
06-10-2008, 06:49 PM
#22
Originally Posted by bimmertech
in your original post you stated you did the work--now someone else did it? which is it?
if you messed something up, man up and say so--we all do it, but don't blame someone else or try to play it off like you didn't do it.
it it was something i messed up i would be more than happy to admit it.
i had the guy whose car i was working on there the whole time because he wanted to learn how to do this.
ok smartie i don't own a press for the bearing i had to take it inside the parts store whose shop i use. they pressed the bearing on, they bent the fingers that stick out that hold the bearing on the sleeve.
i'm still confused on some things though.
1) why the living hell did you have to extend the slave push rod? that makes no sense to me whatsoever.
now here we go with another question that i will answer. i adjusted the clutch adjustment all the way out on the firewall and i still had no pedal to make this setup work. so i made one that would give me clutch pedal.
2) why would you round off the pivot ball? its already round.
now another one here we go. i made a longer rod. this rod did not have a pivot ball. so i rounded the ends off so it had a ball shape to it. and its not a pivot ball. there is no pivot there. i just keeps it the rod in place. it moves back and fourth not left right up or down
3) what does idts mean?
if you messed something up, man up and say so--we all do it, but don't blame someone else or try to play it off like you didn't do it.
it it was something i messed up i would be more than happy to admit it.
i had the guy whose car i was working on there the whole time because he wanted to learn how to do this.
ok smartie i don't own a press for the bearing i had to take it inside the parts store whose shop i use. they pressed the bearing on, they bent the fingers that stick out that hold the bearing on the sleeve.
i'm still confused on some things though.
1) why the living hell did you have to extend the slave push rod? that makes no sense to me whatsoever.
now here we go with another question that i will answer. i adjusted the clutch adjustment all the way out on the firewall and i still had no pedal to make this setup work. so i made one that would give me clutch pedal.
2) why would you round off the pivot ball? its already round.
now another one here we go. i made a longer rod. this rod did not have a pivot ball. so i rounded the ends off so it had a ball shape to it. and its not a pivot ball. there is no pivot there. i just keeps it the rod in place. it moves back and fourth not left right up or down
3) what does idts mean?
so is there anything else i can answer for you?
06-11-2008, 05:20 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by kramykram
i adjusted the clutch adjustment all the way out on the firewall and i still had no pedal to make this setup work. so i made one that would give me clutch pedal.
that poor poor clutch. go pull that new push rod out and put the old one back in. all you prolly needed to do was pump the pedal a buch to get a good pedal. this longer pushrod will cause some severe damage if you leave it like that--especially now since the pedal has been used a few times.
btw what did you adjust? never heard of a manual adjustment on a hydro clutch....
06-11-2008, 08:22 AM
#24
Originally Posted by bimmertech
that poor poor clutch. go pull that new push rod out and put the old one back in. all you prolly needed to do was pump the pedal a buch to get a good pedal. this longer pushrod will cause some severe damage if you leave it like that--especially now since the pedal has been used a few times.
btw what did you adjust? never heard of a manual adjustment on a hydro clutch....
lol dude you are just plain out there. there is a manual adjustment but what do i know. you seem to know it all. maybe you should read up on your clutch setup before you try to call someone out. you make me laugh
Last edited by kramykram; 06-11-2008 at 11:08 AM.
06-12-2008, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
you might want to measure the sleeve you are using for the throw out bearing and make sure its the right length. There is no reason you should have to be making new slave rods...that right there tells you something is off somewhere in the equation IMHO
You may find this JWT combo drops your idle, even to the point where the motor stumbles and quits off rapid throttle lift. I ran through the idle air volume re-learn procedure in the FSM and since then, the idle doesn't dive below 500, it sits very steady at 600-650 rpm. W/o Consult the procedure is kind of convoluted but it works - use timed approach, key turning, pedal, etc. I did both the throttle pedal fully released and full depressed reset first. No more idle plunge and motor dying - pretty annoying coming off 60 mph turning 90 deg onto a side road, and have the motor die.
Btw I also later broke the Clutch Pivot Ball (bolt) on the bottom of the shift lever, upon close examination the bolt appeared to have a flaw since new. It costs something like $15 and having to pull the trans a second time really wasn't fun. For $15 I wish I had just replaced it when the clutch went in. NISMO makes stronger versions of this bolt for older Nissans but not yet for our cars that I can find. Wish they made these for our trans, same for the slave - mine failed due to heat and some contaminants inside, the seals just failed.
06-12-2008, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by xhooniex83
One of my friend installed JWT combo, it did sound like what you said. People said JWT combo makes crazy noise we thought that it's normal 
, he ended up replaced back to stock cluch/flywheels.
, he ended up replaced back to stock cluch/flywheels.
06-12-2008, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveZ
Only noise I get is milder chatter at idle or very low revs. "Crazy Noise" is not normal for a JWT clutch/FW install. I feel the benefit of the light FW and very positive clutch far outweigh a small amount of chatter.
Well when my friend installed himself, and he took it to shop because of that issue ( same as OP ) and shop couldn't even find out lol.
And i told him about this, and he is all pissed off lololol
06-12-2008, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveZ
+1 there. Stock fork should fit fine with the stock slave setup. I run this exact setup and aside from mild chatter at idle with the clutch disengaged, it's not noisy. Coincidentally my slave (outside the trans, an '04) died shortly thereafter but that's a cheap replacement and easy on cars where it's still outside on the case. In my car, everything outside the JWT kit is 100% stock spec, and it was an easy install. When brand new engagement was very low to the floor, but that very quickly mellowed out to engage a little higher as the parts settled in.
You may find this JWT combo drops your idle, even to the point where the motor stumbles and quits off rapid throttle lift. I ran through the idle air volume re-learn procedure in the FSM and since then, the idle doesn't dive below 500, it sits very steady at 600-650 rpm. W/o Consult the procedure is kind of convoluted but it works - use timed approach, key turning, pedal, etc. I did both the throttle pedal fully released and full depressed reset first. No more idle plunge and motor dying - pretty annoying coming off 60 mph turning 90 deg onto a side road, and have the motor die.
Btw I also later broke the Clutch Pivot Ball (bolt) on the bottom of the shift lever, upon close examination the bolt appeared to have a flaw since new. It costs something like $15 and having to pull the trans a second time really wasn't fun. For $15 I wish I had just replaced it when the clutch went in. NISMO makes stronger versions of this bolt for older Nissans but not yet for our cars that I can find. Wish they made these for our trans, same for the slave - mine failed due to heat and some contaminants inside, the seals just failed.
You may find this JWT combo drops your idle, even to the point where the motor stumbles and quits off rapid throttle lift. I ran through the idle air volume re-learn procedure in the FSM and since then, the idle doesn't dive below 500, it sits very steady at 600-650 rpm. W/o Consult the procedure is kind of convoluted but it works - use timed approach, key turning, pedal, etc. I did both the throttle pedal fully released and full depressed reset first. No more idle plunge and motor dying - pretty annoying coming off 60 mph turning 90 deg onto a side road, and have the motor die.
Btw I also later broke the Clutch Pivot Ball (bolt) on the bottom of the shift lever, upon close examination the bolt appeared to have a flaw since new. It costs something like $15 and having to pull the trans a second time really wasn't fun. For $15 I wish I had just replaced it when the clutch went in. NISMO makes stronger versions of this bolt for older Nissans but not yet for our cars that I can find. Wish they made these for our trans, same for the slave - mine failed due to heat and some contaminants inside, the seals just failed.
06-12-2008, 06:51 AM
#29
Originally Posted by SteveZ
+1 there. Stock fork should fit fine with the stock slave setup. I run this exact setup and aside from mild chatter at idle with the clutch disengaged, it's not noisy. Coincidentally my slave (outside the trans, an '04) died shortly thereafter but that's a cheap replacement and easy on cars where it's still outside on the case. In my car, everything outside the JWT kit is 100% stock spec, and it was an easy install. When brand new engagement was very low to the floor, but that very quickly mellowed out to engage a little higher as the parts settled in.
You may find this JWT combo drops your idle, even to the point where the motor stumbles and quits off rapid throttle lift. I ran through the idle air volume re-learn procedure in the FSM and since then, the idle doesn't dive below 500, it sits very steady at 600-650 rpm. W/o Consult the procedure is kind of convoluted but it works - use timed approach, key turning, pedal, etc. I did both the throttle pedal fully released and full depressed reset first. No more idle plunge and motor dying - pretty annoying coming off 60 mph turning 90 deg onto a side road, and have the motor die.
Btw I also later broke the Clutch Pivot Ball (bolt) on the bottom of the shift lever, upon close examination the bolt appeared to have a flaw since new. It costs something like $15 and having to pull the trans a second time really wasn't fun. For $15 I wish I had just replaced it when the clutch went in. NISMO makes stronger versions of this bolt for older Nissans but not yet for our cars that I can find. Wish they made these for our trans, same for the slave - mine failed due to heat and some contaminants inside, the seals just failed.
You may find this JWT combo drops your idle, even to the point where the motor stumbles and quits off rapid throttle lift. I ran through the idle air volume re-learn procedure in the FSM and since then, the idle doesn't dive below 500, it sits very steady at 600-650 rpm. W/o Consult the procedure is kind of convoluted but it works - use timed approach, key turning, pedal, etc. I did both the throttle pedal fully released and full depressed reset first. No more idle plunge and motor dying - pretty annoying coming off 60 mph turning 90 deg onto a side road, and have the motor die.
Btw I also later broke the Clutch Pivot Ball (bolt) on the bottom of the shift lever, upon close examination the bolt appeared to have a flaw since new. It costs something like $15 and having to pull the trans a second time really wasn't fun. For $15 I wish I had just replaced it when the clutch went in. NISMO makes stronger versions of this bolt for older Nissans but not yet for our cars that I can find. Wish they made these for our trans, same for the slave - mine failed due to heat and some contaminants inside, the seals just failed.
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...2002_194577077
06-12-2008, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kramykram
lol dude you are just plain out there. there is a manual adjustment but what do i know. you seem to know it all. maybe you should read up on your clutch setup before you try to call someone out. you make me laugh
please explain to me in great technical detail what "manual" adjustment you made to your clutch. the stock pressure plate is self adjusting btw....
06-14-2008, 11:14 PM
#31
Originally Posted by bimmertech
please explain to me in great technical detail what "manual" adjustment you made to your clutch. the stock pressure plate is self adjusting btw....
dude there is a manual adjustment there. i don't need to go into detail. if you know anything about our cars you know there is an adjustment on the clutch master cylinder. i can't beleive you are still asking about this. haha you are very entertaining.
06-24-2008, 04:55 AM
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first and foremost Kramykram what is the point of starting a thread going into detail and getting people talking about something and not telling them what it was? c'mon man that is like taking a cheeseburger to a starving person and letting them hold it, smell it and not eat it. that is just wrong!
LOL! i think the suspense is comical though but jacked up........
SGP does make one of these clutch pivot ***** just like the link takes you to however good luck getting one as they are severely back ordered.
don't take my word for it.......try to order one.
i started a thread about this install but i didn't go back this far so i am glad i got to searching as this all was very informative as i have to tackle this animal when my JWT kit comes in. it unfortunately is on back order as well......
take it easy guys and kram........be easy on em
LOL! i think the suspense is comical though but jacked up........
SGP does make one of these clutch pivot ***** just like the link takes you to however good luck getting one as they are severely back ordered.
don't take my word for it.......try to order one. i started a thread about this install but i didn't go back this far so i am glad i got to searching as this all was very informative as i have to tackle this animal when my JWT kit comes in. it unfortunately is on back order as well......
take it easy guys and kram........be easy on em
06-28-2008, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by kramykram
actually sgp racing makes one
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...2002_194577077
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...2002_194577077
06-28-2008, 11:29 PM
#36
wow lol im sorry i really thought i posted what the problem was. after talking with a tech at jwt. they told me that when the shop pressed the bearing onto the sleeve they pressed to hard and bent one of the edges the bearing mounts to. they told me they have had a couple of cars come in with the problem and thats what they changed out to fix the problem. the bearing does not need to be pressed at all. you can lightly hammer it out with a big socket and a rubber mallet. they way my local shop did it with the press they used the edges of the bearing sleeve to press it out.
i hope this helps anyone who has run into this problem. im sorry i did not post this sooner as i really thought i did.
here is the link to sgp
http://sgpracing.com/
its on the first page after you click the picture.
i hope this helps anyone who has run into this problem. im sorry i did not post this sooner as i really thought i did.
here is the link to sgp
http://sgpracing.com/
its on the first page after you click the picture.
07-01-2008, 04:14 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by mysmokenz
I ordered
that pivot ball stud with my JWT flywheel for my 06 Z. The pivot ball is too long and wont work on the 06 Z. It only works on 03-05 cars.
that pivot ball stud with my JWT flywheel for my 06 Z. The pivot ball is too long and wont work on the 06 Z. It only works on 03-05 cars.
07-02-2008, 03:01 PM
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Im currently going thru the same nightmare...I had the JWT clutch and flywheel combo installed at a local mechanic and when I got it back it sounds like a diesel truck. I have been arguing with the mechanic and he pulled the tranny out 3 times and the noise is still there. He thinks it might be a shaft bearing gone bad but upon inspection everything looked clean...he now tells me he can get the part thru Nissan and that getting a new tranny would cure the horrible noise....someone please advise as to what I can do...
07-18-2008, 04:49 AM
#40
Ok after pulling the tranny again. the noise was still there. after talking to jwt and replacing the sleeve with a new bearing on it. the noise is still there. im going to try to pull it again today and replace the clutch disk. after further listening to it, it seems maybe the clutch disk is warped or the flywheel. but it only takes me an hour and a half to pull and put back in now. ill keep everyone up to date on what the problems turns out to be.