Whumwhumwhumwhum noise after 4.083 gear upgrade?
The car pulls much more strongly throughout the range and the gears go by real quick. First gear is still somewhat usable; I had heard people before say that they just started in 2nd after the gear upgrade since 1st was so quick and that's true it does go by real fast, but if you're just driving normal it's not such a big deal. I'm really hoping Sharif & Co. can get it fixed before the 30th so I can make my track day @ TGP.
Acceleration in each gear after a diff ratio change is roughly the cube root of the gear pecentage change. For example a 15% ratio change will increase acceleration by ~~ 2.5%.
Based on a few such 15% gear changes observed, it appears to decrease highway steady state MPG by at least 10% depending on normal cruise speed above 55 mph.
Based on a few such 15% gear changes observed, it appears to decrease highway steady state MPG by at least 10% depending on normal cruise speed above 55 mph.
Last edited by Q45tech; Apr 17, 2009 at 12:41 PM.
Acceleration in each gear after a diff ratio change is roughly the cube root of the gear pecentage change. For example a 15% ratio change will increase acceleration by ~~ 2.5%.
Based on a few such 15% gear changes observed, it appears to decrease highway steady state MPG by at least 10% depending on normal cruise speed above 55 mph.
Based on a few such 15% gear changes observed, it appears to decrease highway steady state MPG by at least 10% depending on normal cruise speed above 55 mph.
Oh you feel it. I have an open diff (3.3FD) on my 05 DE G35 coupe.
I had the chance to run the VLSD 3.5FD diff in my car for a while. For me it gave about 6% faster acceleration per gear.
I ended up selling the pumpkin a week and a half ago when I couldn't figure out what was going on with my diff. My installer and I encountered a similar situation only my diff sound was quieter and had a different sounding pitch in it's hum around 60MPH or so.
After changing the fluids, the sound lessened but was there somewhat. I got tired of driving back and fourth a long way to try and figure out what was going on so I decided to let my diff go. I really enjoyed the faster driving dynamics the shorter gears bring IMO.
As for the geddyup, its enough to feel throughout the entire range. You're definitely quicker off the line. I can only imagine how much faster my acceleration would be if I were using the 4.083 FD gears.
Not only that, but most of you are already running FI which makes the acceleration even more ridiculous.
Under these conditions, I have no idea how someone would be able to use 1st gear at all.
I had the chance to run the VLSD 3.5FD diff in my car for a while. For me it gave about 6% faster acceleration per gear.
I ended up selling the pumpkin a week and a half ago when I couldn't figure out what was going on with my diff. My installer and I encountered a similar situation only my diff sound was quieter and had a different sounding pitch in it's hum around 60MPH or so.
After changing the fluids, the sound lessened but was there somewhat. I got tired of driving back and fourth a long way to try and figure out what was going on so I decided to let my diff go. I really enjoyed the faster driving dynamics the shorter gears bring IMO.
As for the geddyup, its enough to feel throughout the entire range. You're definitely quicker off the line. I can only imagine how much faster my acceleration would be if I were using the 4.083 FD gears.
Not only that, but most of you are already running FI which makes the acceleration even more ridiculous.
Under these conditions, I have no idea how someone would be able to use 1st gear at all.
Last edited by tiguy99; Apr 17, 2009 at 08:05 PM.
Was theorizing with a friend of mine at work today - would working on a diff in any way cause something to change/break in the tranny? As far as I know the only thing that would be touched remotely close to the tranny would be the driveshaft as it was unbolted/rebolted to the diff? Other wise tranny shouldn't be touched correct?
Hey, I just had mine installed today. I have the exact same noise issue. Used both install kits. Im calling the installer tomorrow. I will suggest the bearings to them too as the source. Please keep this thread updated! Thanks
Last edited by Regul8or; Apr 24, 2009 at 10:15 PM.
I talked about it with my friend who is a mechanical engineer, and he was positive its the bearings making noise. New bearings, which both the OP and myself have do make a loud noise, I also noticed that after driving for a bit, they heat up and the noise goes down slightly. I guess the only way to see if something is truly wrong is to open her up again. But for now, I will wait and see if the bearings do break in and the noise disappears.
Any others on here that used install kit #2 on their cars??
Any others on here that used install kit #2 on their cars??
Did your rear pumpkin make noise when the car was brand new and you first drove it off the dealer lot? No - and neither should it make any noise when you install any of these gears. All the pieces we supply are factory Nissan parts - nothing is aftermarket. Something is either off with your install, or you have other issues (rear diff bushing, etc). Either way, it needs to be looked at by whomever installed it for you.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Apr 25, 2009 at 08:33 AM.
Quick update on mine - I picked it up this morning from Forged and it checked out ok. The noise is still there, but the measurements and settings for the diff were all correct. They opened the pumpkin, checked everything, dropped everything off the car, and replaced the rear subframe bushing with the SPL aluminum bushing as well; my annoying wheel hop issue is fixed too. The car drives much better.
Regul8or - do you have a lightweight fly by any chance?
Regul8or - do you have a lightweight fly by any chance?
Frizille, I do not have a lightweight flywheel. Glad to hear that all the measurements and specs were good and that the bushing were replaced. I checked under mine, and I see no sign of the black marks that run alongside the diff.
So the noise is still there huh? Maybe it is just the "break-in" period. Driven about 100 miles thus far, and have run it hard a few times, but am now easing up a little bit. What did the guys at Forged suggest??
Thanks
So the noise is still there huh? Maybe it is just the "break-in" period. Driven about 100 miles thus far, and have run it hard a few times, but am now easing up a little bit. What did the guys at Forged suggest??
Thanks
Frizille, I do not have a lightweight flywheel. Glad to hear that all the measurements and specs were good and that the bushing were replaced. I checked under mine, and I see no sign of the black marks that run alongside the diff.
So the noise is still there huh? Maybe it is just the "break-in" period. Driven about 100 miles thus far, and have run it hard a few times, but am now easing up a little bit. What did the guys at Forged suggest??
Thanks
So the noise is still there huh? Maybe it is just the "break-in" period. Driven about 100 miles thus far, and have run it hard a few times, but am now easing up a little bit. What did the guys at Forged suggest??
Thanks
I've got a track day on Thursday so I'll find out one way or another if it's ok ...
Bump from the dead. Same issue as yours frizille. Shop even took it apart a second time and reshimmed it and it did not improve very much at all. Same decel noise just like yours but I also notice a pretty pronounced clunk when shifting 1-2. Shop blames it on the solid bushings. Did this issue ever get resolved??
4.08/Quaife/SPL bushings
4.08/Quaife/SPL bushings
Hey guys. Ive been communicating with frizille. We have the same issue. Both 4.08 with install kits 1 and 2. I dont know if they over tightened my crush sleeve, but if they have to take it apart again to loosen it, then maybe its not worth it. I feel that the noise has decreased slightly, but still apparent. Can you point me out to a pic of the crush sleeve that could be overtightened. Once again, I did not install my gears, so I dont know too much about it.
You could try using a thinker weight gear oil. With 4.88 gears and lockers in my truck I have to use a 140w oil. I think I have 80-90 in the z. A little noise might be heard in the break in period. You should change the gear oil at 100 miles and again at 500 miles.



