GTM Valvebody Upgrade Issue?(car towed)
11-04-2009, 07:35 AM
#22
Well i was driving from San Diego to LA for the weekend and as I was 20 miles away from LA, the car could no longer put power to the wheels. It felt like the clutch was slipping, and i couldn't do anything. At first, it only slipped a little but after 5 more miles of driving(note this is on the 5 freeway during rush hour on a Friday) it was just revving when i was in gear(keep in mind it's a 5AT). So i luckily got off the freeway and with the help of some nice people pushed it into a Carls Jr. parking lot until i waited for the tow. Took 4 guys and about an hour to just get my car on the flatbed because i'ts low and then I had it towed to Precision Z even though they are closed until Monday(it's located right by my house so it didn't cost extra).
My car has about 23k miles on it and the only thing I've modified reguarding the transmission is the valvebody and that's my guess at what my problem is. Now idk what i'm going to do because GTM is 100 miles away, and I still don't know what exactly the problem is. The valvebody was installed at GTM just for reference. I loved every second of the upgrade until this failure. I really hope I can get the car up and running soon. Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
-Arsh
My car has about 23k miles on it and the only thing I've modified reguarding the transmission is the valvebody and that's my guess at what my problem is. Now idk what i'm going to do because GTM is 100 miles away, and I still don't know what exactly the problem is. The valvebody was installed at GTM just for reference. I loved every second of the upgrade until this failure. I really hope I can get the car up and running soon. Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
-Arsh
I was hopping that you will have offered more info then that, You are making it sound that this valve body upgrade was done yesterday and right after the trans failed .
let me refresh you memory maybe you have forgotten, The valve body upgrade was done over a year ago, you have driven you car over or around 15 k since then .
If the The valve body upgrade was the cause of your transmission failure, you would have had problems long time ago, trans work does not have any gray area it is either White or black, it either works out the box or it does not work .
Now, Here is some facts valve body upgrades are one of the most reliable modification done on a A/T when done right, We have done literally hundreds of them without any issues
before putting anther transmission you need to fine the cause of failure so this wont happen to the new transmission, This will take some very intense diagnosing and a tear down inspection and i highly recommend doing that .
best of luck
Sam
11-04-2009, 07:42 AM
#23
Ok guys, here is an update, sorry i haven't been on lately.
I tried to get it the warranty on it honored and i had the car towed to Valencia Nissan. They said over the phone they would do it and i told them all of my mods, but when i took it there they said they wouldn't touch it because "i had headers". Yea......wtf headers has to do with the transmission idk but i had it towed back to Precision and now Performance Nissan said they will take care of it 100% so i'm hopeful that they will come through for me. It's getting towed there today so i will update on how that goes. Now, we still don't know the exact reasoning of the transmission giving out. It might be due to the reason RCDASH suggested but we still don't know. I didn't think I would hve to check levels becasue GTM was doing the labor and they have probably the best rep out there. Now if I can get tranny replaced GTM said they would put in a new Valvebody for free but I don't even know if i want them to do that. I do not want any other problems with my car and just want to finally enjoy it without it being in a shop 2 weeks out of every month. I'm just scared if it was the valvebody that caused it and if it'll happen again wiht this new tranny 20k+ miles down the line, because I know for a fact I won't be able to get it warrantied a second time.
I tried to get it the warranty on it honored and i had the car towed to Valencia Nissan. They said over the phone they would do it and i told them all of my mods, but when i took it there they said they wouldn't touch it because "i had headers". Yea......wtf headers has to do with the transmission idk but i had it towed back to Precision and now Performance Nissan said they will take care of it 100% so i'm hopeful that they will come through for me. It's getting towed there today so i will update on how that goes. Now, we still don't know the exact reasoning of the transmission giving out. It might be due to the reason RCDASH suggested but we still don't know. I didn't think I would hve to check levels becasue GTM was doing the labor and they have probably the best rep out there. Now if I can get tranny replaced GTM said they would put in a new Valvebody for free but I don't even know if i want them to do that. I do not want any other problems with my car and just want to finally enjoy it without it being in a shop 2 weeks out of every month. I'm just scared if it was the valvebody that caused it and if it'll happen again wiht this new tranny 20k+ miles down the line, because I know for a fact I won't be able to get it warrantied a second time.
Sam
11-04-2009, 02:34 PM
#24
Registered User
is it possible a 5AT with slightly low fluid would give out after 15K 
I don't think the shift kit would do it .. but I'm curious why the tranny failed
A.H. did you ever check the tranny fluid since the VB upgrade
.. or did you just assume all is good and drive it
I don't think the shift kit would do it .. but I'm curious why the tranny failed
A.H. did you ever check the tranny fluid since the VB upgrade
.. or did you just assume all is good and drive it
11-04-2009, 03:23 PM
#26
My guess is fluid level was never checked after valve body upgrade You are damn lucky you were able to find a dealership to Warranty the repair! As heavily modded as your car is..... They generally just turn you away.
Dealerships in my area won't even touch my lowered car. Affraid to be liable for my rims.
Soo much better owning a 6spd... Good luck on repair.
You are damn lucky you were able to find a dealership to Warranty the repair! As heavily modded as your car is..... They generally just turn you away.Dealerships in my area won't even touch my lowered car. Affraid to be liable for my rims.
Soo much better owning a 6spd... Good luck on repair.
11-04-2009, 04:47 PM
#28
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i have a complete rebuilt kit for a re5 transmission for sale, clutches, seals, gaskets, the works 
350 to ur door! for some reason the 350's and g35 tranamission rebuilt kit differ from the v8 transmission and its the same RE5R05A!
350 to ur door! for some reason the 350's and g35 tranamission rebuilt kit differ from the v8 transmission and its the same RE5R05A!
Last edited by kha4079; 11-04-2009 at 04:49 PM.
11-04-2009, 04:50 PM
#29
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off topic until A.H appears
just curious .. how much are the rebuild kits new? (assuming 350 is cheaper)
any idea how long our 5AT's will last?
I read somewhere Jatco designed them for 100,000 shift cycles .. is a cycle a "shift" or a cycle through all the gears
b/c if it is each shift then daily driving through rush hour traffic has me screwed .. haha
just curious .. how much are the rebuild kits new? (assuming 350 is cheaper)
any idea how long our 5AT's will last?
I read somewhere Jatco designed them for 100,000 shift cycles .. is a cycle a "shift" or a cycle through all the gears
b/c if it is each shift then daily driving through rush hour traffic has me screwed .. haha
Last edited by Adrians07Z; 11-04-2009 at 04:52 PM.
11-05-2009, 04:13 PM
#30
You guys with 5ATs. If you run the car hard, get a BIG cooler, change fluid more often (at least once a year or after track days), and check the fluid level per the FSM every time you change the fluid. The trans is stout - it will last. 15k miles and counting at 500+ whp on GTM's 5AT with no issues whatsoever (ATF fluid changes at 6k and 12k miles).
11-05-2009, 04:27 PM
#31
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what do you consider "hard"
as in tracking / racing the car
what about stock car that is daily driven .. and get on it every now and then when traffic gets out the way?
is the bigger cooler necessary for every vb upgrade .. or just if you got higher hp and / or race it?
and do you have the GTM valve body or their fully built tranny?
as in tracking / racing the car
what about stock car that is daily driven .. and get on it every now and then when traffic gets out the way?
is the bigger cooler necessary for every vb upgrade .. or just if you got higher hp and / or race it?
and do you have the GTM valve body or their fully built tranny?
Last edited by Adrians07Z; 11-05-2009 at 04:29 PM.
11-05-2009, 04:28 PM
#32
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You guys with 5ATs. If you run the car hard, get a BIG cooler, change fluid more often (at least once a year or after track days), and check the fluid level per the FSM every time you change the fluid. The trans is stout - it will last. 15k miles and counting at 500+ whp on GTM's 5AT with no issues whatsoever (ATF fluid changes at 6k and 12k miles).
11-05-2009, 05:38 PM
#34
I only use J/S matic. Guys draining and filling the trans fluid is so easy with the drain plug on the pan. It's 4-5 qts at $9 per quart. So, yes, I spend $100 a year on preventative maintenance for my $4500 transmission. You should too. Sam recommended 6k fluid changes for FI and a built trans, so that's what I'm doing. So far so good.
As an example for what I mean by running "hard". One (1) single run up a mountain at ZdayZ (less than 20 mins) and I had my ATF at 290 deg F (see my build thread in sig for details). The outside temp was cool, around 70!!! Safe operating range for the 5AT is 175 to 225 deg F depending on who you ask. I shut the car down as soon as I could pull safely over to let it cool down. When I got home, I did a drain/fill and changed from an 11 x 6 x 1.5" cooler to an 11 x 11 x 1.5" cooler. It's been running under 200 ever since, even in heavy traffic where it would otherwise routinely get over 225, but I haven't had a chance to take it back to the mountains or to a track.
As an example for what I mean by running "hard". One (1) single run up a mountain at ZdayZ (less than 20 mins) and I had my ATF at 290 deg F (see my build thread in sig for details). The outside temp was cool, around 70!!! Safe operating range for the 5AT is 175 to 225 deg F depending on who you ask. I shut the car down as soon as I could pull safely over to let it cool down. When I got home, I did a drain/fill and changed from an 11 x 6 x 1.5" cooler to an 11 x 11 x 1.5" cooler. It's been running under 200 ever since, even in heavy traffic where it would otherwise routinely get over 225, but I haven't had a chance to take it back to the mountains or to a track.
Last edited by rcdash; 11-06-2009 at 11:36 AM.
11-05-2009, 05:56 PM
#35
Registered User
I guess you got a point on a fully built tranny and turbo car
in my case that would be close to $200 .. and 4 changes a year .. probably not necessary on a stock Z w/ just the vb upgrade
I'm assuming you have a tranny temp gauge .. are there any warning signs that your tranny fluid gets too hot
does the "check A/T" light come on .. b/c I do remember there being a temp sensor in the valve body when I took it apart
in my case that would be close to $200 .. and 4 changes a year .. probably not necessary on a stock Z w/ just the vb upgrade
I'm assuming you have a tranny temp gauge .. are there any warning signs that your tranny fluid gets too hot
does the "check A/T" light come on .. b/c I do remember there being a temp sensor in the valve body when I took it apart
Last edited by Adrians07Z; 11-05-2009 at 05:57 PM.
11-05-2009, 10:41 PM
#36
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I guess you got a point on a fully built tranny and turbo car
in my case that would be close to $200 .. and 4 changes a year .. probably not necessary on a stock Z w/ just the vb upgrade
I'm assuming you have a tranny temp gauge .. are there any warning signs that your tranny fluid gets too hot
does the "check A/T" light come on .. b/c I do remember there being a temp sensor in the valve body when I took it apart
in my case that would be close to $200 .. and 4 changes a year .. probably not necessary on a stock Z w/ just the vb upgrade
I'm assuming you have a tranny temp gauge .. are there any warning signs that your tranny fluid gets too hot
does the "check A/T" light come on .. b/c I do remember there being a temp sensor in the valve body when I took it apart
11-06-2009, 05:12 AM
#37
I had no indication that the transmission was hot other than the extra temp gauge that I put in there. The key is that ATF degrades quickly at high temps. I think the trans can probably survive 300+ deg with good ATF. But once that ATF degrades, all bets are off.
I saw a chart that showed the expected life of ATF based on the temperature it runs at. It was something on the order of 50k miles at 180 deg F, and cut in HALF for every 10 degrees above that. Maybe our matic-s/matic-j is top of the line, but I doubt it provides much protection after running for any length of time above 250+ degrees.
So run it cool or change the fluid often. If you're FI, do both.
A.H., after reading through this thread again, I don't think you should worry about getting another VB upgrade. It really sounds like it just overheated. Get a big cooler on there and a temp gauge and you should be good to go.
I saw a chart that showed the expected life of ATF based on the temperature it runs at. It was something on the order of 50k miles at 180 deg F, and cut in HALF for every 10 degrees above that. Maybe our matic-s/matic-j is top of the line, but I doubt it provides much protection after running for any length of time above 250+ degrees.
So run it cool or change the fluid often. If you're FI, do both.
A.H., after reading through this thread again, I don't think you should worry about getting another VB upgrade. It really sounds like it just overheated. Get a big cooler on there and a temp gauge and you should be good to go.
Last edited by rcdash; 11-06-2009 at 11:35 AM.
11-06-2009, 10:41 PM
#38
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I had no indication that the transmission was hot other than the extra temp gauge that I put in there. The key is that ATF degrades quickly at high temps. I think the trans can probably survive 300+ deg with good ATF. But once that ATF degrades, all bets are off.
I saw a chart that showed the expected life of ATF based on the temperature it runs at. It was something on the order of 50k miles at 180 deg F, and cut in HALF for every 10 degrees above that. Maybe our matic-s/matic-j is top of the line, but I doubt it provides much protection after running for any length of time above 250+ degrees.
So run it cool or change the fluid often. If you're FI, do both.
A.H., after reading through this thread again, I don't think you should worry about getting another VB upgrade. It really sounds like it just overheated. Get a big cooler on there and a temp gauge and you should be good to go.
I saw a chart that showed the expected life of ATF based on the temperature it runs at. It was something on the order of 50k miles at 180 deg F, and cut in HALF for every 10 degrees above that. Maybe our matic-s/matic-j is top of the line, but I doubt it provides much protection after running for any length of time above 250+ degrees.
So run it cool or change the fluid often. If you're FI, do both.
A.H., after reading through this thread again, I don't think you should worry about getting another VB upgrade. It really sounds like it just overheated. Get a big cooler on there and a temp gauge and you should be good to go.
steady flow traffic is not generally associated with high trans temps,high load pulls or "mountain climbing" yeah,but rush hour?
11-28-2009, 03:54 PM
#39
Because its a warranty issue. You guys should definitely help this guy out, he's always been supporting you and took the initiative to be one of the first to get the vb upgrade from you. Each time someone calls on the phone, you always expect them to buy a turbo from you and have it installed. Are you going to just hang up on the person when it blows after a couple of thousand miles? The least you could do is replace the vb (including pay for install) and apologize.