What flywheel and clutch set up for drag and street?
#1
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What flywheel and clutch set up for drag and street?
Well, my Exedy stage 1 clutch (stock flywheel) is starting to give out on me after 3 years/53K miles and countless trips to the strip.
Keep in mind that I go to the drag strip very, very often every year and the clutch will be abused to hell. I autoX every once in a while, too, if that matters. And lastly, I spray a 100 whp shot with plans to up the shot sometime in the future.
The new clutch and flywheel combination must be:
- lighter than OEM (lighter the better)
- able to support much more power (prefer to be rated around 500+ tq)
- able to withstand constant abuse at the strip, track, and street
- relatively easy to daily drive with (prefer the clutch to be sprung, but not required)
- replaceable friction plate (i.e., JWT) on the flywheel (preferred, but not required)
- priced within reason
I know a lot of you guys are on aftermarket clutch/flywheels, so any contributory insight would be greatly appreciated.
Keep in mind that I go to the drag strip very, very often every year and the clutch will be abused to hell. I autoX every once in a while, too, if that matters. And lastly, I spray a 100 whp shot with plans to up the shot sometime in the future.
The new clutch and flywheel combination must be:
- lighter than OEM (lighter the better)
- able to support much more power (prefer to be rated around 500+ tq)
- able to withstand constant abuse at the strip, track, and street
- relatively easy to daily drive with (prefer the clutch to be sprung, but not required)
- replaceable friction plate (i.e., JWT) on the flywheel (preferred, but not required)
- priced within reason
I know a lot of you guys are on aftermarket clutch/flywheels, so any contributory insight would be greatly appreciated.
#2
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i had a clutchmasters stage 4clutch/aluminum flywheel....held all the powa i had for my procharger/turbonetics setup....clutch pedal was about 30%harder then stock but grabbed great...had some chatter...its rated for 550tq i believe
now i have a carbonetics triple disc which is prob more then u want but it has the same pedal feel as the cm but will grab tons of powa.... gl in ur decision!!
now i have a carbonetics triple disc which is prob more then u want but it has the same pedal feel as the cm but will grab tons of powa.... gl in ur decision!!
#3
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eltness350, thanks for your input. I don't really mind the stiffer pedal feel and would prefer it to be MUCH stiffer than stock (as my Exedy is already like that for some reason). The chatter also doesn't bother me and is expected. Were you able to slip the clutch at all or was it more on/off?
#7
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What made you decide on the Southbend Stage 4 and JWT flywheel combo?
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#9
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With all honesty though, I haven't really completely decided, and probably won't until after the holidays.
#11
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The ACT flywheels, though, I'll be researching that more. Do you have personal experience with these flywheels by any chance?
I hear you on the Carbonetics and Tilton. I'd love a Tilton set up, though.
Well I had a JWT Flywheel sitting in the garage. I haven't read any derogatory things in regards to the southbend.......they seem perfectly durable and relatively cheap. After spending so much on the OS and having not hold up to drag duty......price is a concern. I don't wish to overpay for a clutch again.
With all honesty though, I haven't really completely decided, and probably won't until after the holidays.
With all honesty though, I haven't really completely decided, and probably won't until after the holidays.
I haven't yet looked at the Southbend ones too much, but after a quick glance at their line up, Stage 3 or 4 seems to fit my needs well.
Was there a reason for you going with a different clutch other than power increase?
#14
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just power increase...i sold the clutch used and it still had plenty of meat after about 10k of abuse on it with around 400rwhp and no signs of overheating on the flywheel/clutch itself....it was a predictable clutch/flywheel combo for like 1200 i think it was....went with the carbonetics just because of power increase....shooting for 700rwhp so we will c...if i ever get it back.... i know some people like the act also? maybe that? or a twin os giken?
#15
350Z-holic
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With the amount of drag racing you do I would stay away from OS. They are absolutely fantastic on the street, but do not hold up to the rigors of hard launches on slicks. It isn't just me, but if you look in XKR's build thread.....there was a chart posted from supraforums with regards to clutches and there intended purposes. If I find it....I'll link you. They just don't seem to hold up to drag. The Comp clutch stage 4 or Southbend stage 4 should be overkill for your 100-125 shot. It's nice to have that added capacity, especially when hard launches will be common place.
Edit: Link Found.... https://my350z.com/forum/7893611-post1955.html
Edit: Link Found.... https://my350z.com/forum/7893611-post1955.html
Last edited by 03threefiftyz; 11-30-2009 at 08:13 PM.
#16
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Moved to a different forum for more traffic...
OK, the below lists show the clutches and flywheels I'm currently looking into. I may mix/match or go with "bundle."
Flywheel
-ACT XACT streetLite flywheel (600215)
-ACT XACT ProLite flywheel (600220)
-Clutch Masters aluminum flywheel (FW-919-AL)
-Competition Clutch flywheel (2-350Z-STU)
-JWT aluminum flywheel (L3503-NF000)
-RPS CYN-R-G lightweight aluminum flywheel (BF-17350)
-Spec Aluminum flywheel (SN35A)
Clutch
-ACT Heavy Duty clutch (NZ1-HDG6)
-Clutch Masters Stage 3 (06-047-HDTZ)
-Clutch Masters Stage 4 (06-047-HDCB6)
-Competition Clutch Stage 4 IronMan Street-Strip Series (6072-1680)
-Competition Clutch Stage 4 Strip Series (6072-1620)
-RPS MAX Series Clutch (MS-17909-ST)
-RPS MAX Series 6-puck Clutch (MS-17909-SP)
-Southbend Stage 3 dual friction organic/feramic
-Southbend Stage 4 dual friction organic/feramic
-Southbend Stage 4 full feramic
-Spec Clutches Stage 3+ (SN353F)
With the flywheel, my main concern was the weight -- the lighter the better. Being able to daily drive it with ease is a plus, but not a necessity (unless it's absolutely unbearable). Also, replaceable friction plates are tempting, but I'm not sure how important that really is. I prefer chromoly over aluminum over steel.
With the clutch, my main concern is being able to hold much more power than I currently have with a 100 whp shot of nitrous (to be 150 whp shot in the future), so I figured 5-600 tq rating is necessary. Weight of the clutch also is taken into consideration, although not all manufacturers provide them. My Z is a daily driver that gets driven to tracks hours away, raced there for hours, then driven back. Therefore, the clutch needs to allow some slipping (for the street and for launching at the drag strip), be able to last for a LONG time/miles, withstand constant abuse, etc.
With that being said, can you guys give me your reasoning for choosing certain clutch/flywheel combo over another or why I shouldn't choose certain ones?
Again, any and all help is greatly appreciated. And thanks to those who have already contributed to the thread.
OK, the below lists show the clutches and flywheels I'm currently looking into. I may mix/match or go with "bundle."
Flywheel
-ACT XACT streetLite flywheel (600215)
-ACT XACT ProLite flywheel (600220)
-Clutch Masters aluminum flywheel (FW-919-AL)
-Competition Clutch flywheel (2-350Z-STU)
-JWT aluminum flywheel (L3503-NF000)
-RPS CYN-R-G lightweight aluminum flywheel (BF-17350)
-Spec Aluminum flywheel (SN35A)
Clutch
-ACT Heavy Duty clutch (NZ1-HDG6)
-Clutch Masters Stage 3 (06-047-HDTZ)
-Clutch Masters Stage 4 (06-047-HDCB6)
-Competition Clutch Stage 4 IronMan Street-Strip Series (6072-1680)
-Competition Clutch Stage 4 Strip Series (6072-1620)
-RPS MAX Series Clutch (MS-17909-ST)
-RPS MAX Series 6-puck Clutch (MS-17909-SP)
-Southbend Stage 3 dual friction organic/feramic
-Southbend Stage 4 dual friction organic/feramic
-Southbend Stage 4 full feramic
-Spec Clutches Stage 3+ (SN353F)
With the flywheel, my main concern was the weight -- the lighter the better. Being able to daily drive it with ease is a plus, but not a necessity (unless it's absolutely unbearable). Also, replaceable friction plates are tempting, but I'm not sure how important that really is. I prefer chromoly over aluminum over steel.
With the clutch, my main concern is being able to hold much more power than I currently have with a 100 whp shot of nitrous (to be 150 whp shot in the future), so I figured 5-600 tq rating is necessary. Weight of the clutch also is taken into consideration, although not all manufacturers provide them. My Z is a daily driver that gets driven to tracks hours away, raced there for hours, then driven back. Therefore, the clutch needs to allow some slipping (for the street and for launching at the drag strip), be able to last for a LONG time/miles, withstand constant abuse, etc.
With that being said, can you guys give me your reasoning for choosing certain clutch/flywheel combo over another or why I shouldn't choose certain ones?
Again, any and all help is greatly appreciated. And thanks to those who have already contributed to the thread.
#17
350Z-holic
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Chris, is the post link in my prior post working....it should be a chart with some of your options listed. It doesn't seem to load the chart when I click on it. The higher staged full single disk clutches are inevitably going to be fairly heavy in the pedal, but not unbearable so. All of them should offer streetable amounts of "slip". Honestly, my OS had 0 slip, but after 500 miles or so I was completely used to it. Granted I don't DD the car, but it saw some traffic, etc.
#18
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No, sir, I do not see a chart. However, I do see that there's a link to an image on imageshack that doesn't seem to load.
As for the heavy pedal feel, I actually prefer it over soft or light. My current Exedy stage 1 gives most people cramps within minutes driving.
I would think that I should be able to slip most of these clutches. I also figure the sprung ones are "safer" for rest of the drivetrain as it should reduce some shock from launching and/or spraying.
As for the heavy pedal feel, I actually prefer it over soft or light. My current Exedy stage 1 gives most people cramps within minutes driving.
I would think that I should be able to slip most of these clutches. I also figure the sprung ones are "safer" for rest of the drivetrain as it should reduce some shock from launching and/or spraying.
#19
350Z-holic
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Hmmm, it was working last evening. Might be an issue on whatever host it is on. You should be fine with any of the more aggressive southbend or ACT clutches. I believe most if not all of them are sprung. I am also a fan of sprung clutch disks......just seems easier on parts.
#20
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I never actually saw anything in the link you posted here other than words.
Are you getting the full face or the puck style? Why did you choose that one over the other?
Are you getting the full face or the puck style? Why did you choose that one over the other?