Sad Sad Dyno Sheet... :(
Originally posted by VandyZ
Dont get too worked up about it, we did comparison between 4th and 5th gear pulls and it only showed around 1 (+/- .5) hp in favor of 4th gear.
Dont get too worked up about it, we did comparison between 4th and 5th gear pulls and it only showed around 1 (+/- .5) hp in favor of 4th gear.
We'll see, I talked to the dyno tech at the shop and he said they were clearly done in different gears and that would definetly effect dyno #'s.
Going to re-dyno it tomorrow in the afternoon. The shop is going to give me 2 free pulls.
Hey Vance, you said Im still half way broken-in. So its 6000 miles? Will this net that much more HP?
Thanks for all the input guys.
-Richard
Originally posted by shil01
Ive heard dyno pulls running a good 10-15 hp difference in 4th gear. If its just a 1 HP difference, why would it really matter? i thought that was why people made the big stink about 5th and not 4th.
We'll see, I talked to the dyno tech at the shop and he said they were clearly done in different gears and that would definetly effect dyno #'s.
Going to re-dyno it tomorrow in the afternoon. The shop is going to give me 2 free pulls.
Hey Vance, you said Im still half way broken-in. So its 6000 miles? Will this net that much more HP?
Thanks for all the input guys.
-Richard
Ive heard dyno pulls running a good 10-15 hp difference in 4th gear. If its just a 1 HP difference, why would it really matter? i thought that was why people made the big stink about 5th and not 4th.
We'll see, I talked to the dyno tech at the shop and he said they were clearly done in different gears and that would definetly effect dyno #'s.
Going to re-dyno it tomorrow in the afternoon. The shop is going to give me 2 free pulls.
Hey Vance, you said Im still half way broken-in. So its 6000 miles? Will this net that much more HP?
Thanks for all the input guys.
-Richard
I have about the same setup as you and you're putting down about 4 mor hp than I am (I am in Phoenix, AZ and it is still scorching down here). As dwnshft said, that's about what you should expect to be putting down.
My dyno sheet is almost like yours. I baselined at 235 hp then after exhaust and headers, I dynoed at 248.6. I say there may be something wrong. The CAI may be the culprit.
Originally posted by shil01
Ive heard dyno pulls running a good 10-15 hp difference in 4th gear. If its just a 1 HP difference, why would it really matter? i thought that was why people made the big stink about 5th and not 4th.
We'll see, I talked to the dyno tech at the shop and he said they were clearly done in different gears and that would definetly effect dyno #'s.
Going to re-dyno it tomorrow in the afternoon. The shop is going to give me 2 free pulls.
Hey Vance, you said Im still half way broken-in. So its 6000 miles? Will this net that much more HP?
Thanks for all the input guys.
-Richard
Ive heard dyno pulls running a good 10-15 hp difference in 4th gear. If its just a 1 HP difference, why would it really matter? i thought that was why people made the big stink about 5th and not 4th.
We'll see, I talked to the dyno tech at the shop and he said they were clearly done in different gears and that would definetly effect dyno #'s.
Going to re-dyno it tomorrow in the afternoon. The shop is going to give me 2 free pulls.
Hey Vance, you said Im still half way broken-in. So its 6000 miles? Will this net that much more HP?
Thanks for all the input guys.
-Richard
Here is the way to do it.
Have the car good and warmed up upon arrival. Strap to dyno. Re-warm car with a pull or two. (The dyno guys should understand you want your car good and hot.) Make sure the fans turn on, that means you are up to temperature. Sit on dyno until fans just turn off. Then immediately run a true pull. Again wait for fans to just cut off and run your next pull. This is where you will see your best numbers!
GOOD LUCK.
Ok..redynoed today. A bit better but still not what was hoped for.
At least I broke the 250 mark. I told the tech to just print out my baseline (in red) and my run today with the whole gamut (in blue).
Still seems to low to me. A total of 17 HP gain with all my mods. I gained 5 with the test pipes to 239 and a 12HP increase with the rest of my mods to 251HP. I have listed those mods with my super conservative HP numbers I assumed was gained with each mod.
Injen Intake 1HP
Crawford Plenum 4HP
Grounding Wires 1HP
Borla Headers 2HP
Borla TD Catback 4HP
Total= 12HP
Should I be looking for something installed incorrectly?
From others posted I should have gained 12HP with just the plenum and Intake.
At least I broke the 250 mark. I told the tech to just print out my baseline (in red) and my run today with the whole gamut (in blue).Still seems to low to me. A total of 17 HP gain with all my mods. I gained 5 with the test pipes to 239 and a 12HP increase with the rest of my mods to 251HP. I have listed those mods with my super conservative HP numbers I assumed was gained with each mod.
Injen Intake 1HP
Crawford Plenum 4HP
Grounding Wires 1HP
Borla Headers 2HP
Borla TD Catback 4HP
Total= 12HP
Should I be looking for something installed incorrectly?
From others posted I should have gained 12HP with just the plenum and Intake.
You never answered my question before, did you have a fan blowing air into the front of the car for the CAI? I have seen where not doing this with a CAI installed can prove to show less than stellar results, especially since you have opened up the exhaust and have the Plenum on, creating a very free flowing system with very little back pressure. The car may be starving for air. Big difference when you are driving down the road forcing air-flow into the CAI, but having a heavy duty fan blowing on the car during Dyno can help to compensate for that loss.
Originally posted by KONVERTER
since you drove like grandma i think your car isnt opening up like it should
since you drove like grandma i think your car isnt opening up like it should
In post after post you keep talking about ignoring the idea of conservative driving during the break-in period. Can you site some proof or backing to your claim that aggressive driving during the break-in is more beneficial than conservative driving during break-in?
I don't mean to disqualify your statement in any way. I honestly have no idea which is better. It's just that your statement is counter to everything I've ever heard from every car manufacturer and mechanic in my life regarding every type of car I've ever owned. I would greatly appreciate it if you could post some links or references to books which explain the aggressive break-in theory.
Thanks!
Originally posted by zzzya
You never answered my question before, did you have a fan blowing air into the front of the car for the CAI?
You never answered my question before, did you have a fan blowing air into the front of the car for the CAI?
Is this setup too free flowing?
Originally posted by shil01
Injen Intake 1HP
Crawford Plenum 4HP
Grounding Wires 1HP
Borla Headers 2HP
Borla TD Catback 4HP
Total= 12HP
Should I be looking for something installed incorrectly?
From others posted I should have gained 12HP with just the plenum and Intake.
Injen Intake 1HP
Crawford Plenum 4HP
Grounding Wires 1HP
Borla Headers 2HP
Borla TD Catback 4HP
Total= 12HP
Should I be looking for something installed incorrectly?
From others posted I should have gained 12HP with just the plenum and Intake.
Injen Intake=0
Grounding Wires=0
Borla headers=0-1
Crawford Plenum=7
Borla TD=5
it seems that most people have been getting about 9hp for the Plenum and about 10 hp for the Borla exhaust, which I would agree, makes the #s still low.
makes me wonder if the CAI is actually losing power (some have speculated), or what is going on with Borla Headers.
Originally posted by jreiter
In post after post you keep talking about ignoring the idea of conservative driving during the break-in period. Can you site some proof or backing to your claim that aggressive driving during the break-in is more beneficial than conservative driving during break-in?
I don't mean to disqualify your statement in any way. I honestly have no idea which is better. It's just that your statement is counter to everything I've ever heard from every car manufacturer and mechanic in my life regarding every type of car I've ever owned. I would greatly appreciate it if you could post some links or references to books which explain the aggressive break-in theory.
Thanks!
In post after post you keep talking about ignoring the idea of conservative driving during the break-in period. Can you site some proof or backing to your claim that aggressive driving during the break-in is more beneficial than conservative driving during break-in?
I don't mean to disqualify your statement in any way. I honestly have no idea which is better. It's just that your statement is counter to everything I've ever heard from every car manufacturer and mechanic in my life regarding every type of car I've ever owned. I would greatly appreciate it if you could post some links or references to books which explain the aggressive break-in theory.
Thanks!
also read what raceboy and others have to say on the subject by doing a search on the subject. I have always heard that it was better to run it hard.
Originally posted by rodH
Here you go http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
also read what raceboy and others have to say on the subject by doing a search on the subject. I have always heard that it was better to run it hard.
Here you go http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
also read what raceboy and others have to say on the subject by doing a search on the subject. I have always heard that it was better to run it hard.
Good deal. Thanks for the link. I'll check it out and do a search for Raceboy's comments.
Thanks for the clarification. I would check for airflow leaks. Get under the hood and have someone give it gas while listening for a whooshing sound other than the normal CAI sound. With the number of exhaust mods you have, there is a chance you may have an exhaust leak as well. The Borla is somewhat know for this because of the many pieces and connection type. Many have gone as far as having it welded together to prevent leakage. I also agree that it is good to work the engine during break-in to seat the rings properly, but I make sure that I change my oil and filter after 500 miles because it is cheap and easy. I consider break-in the first 500 miles where I drive harder than normal. Just what I had read from some performance websites and follows what RodH posted.
Is this setup too free flowing? [/B][/QUOTE]
I have wondered the very same thing and that is why I have not gone with test pipes or headers at this time. If you have the stock intake box, it may be very interesting to throw it back on and see what you get. Someone really needs to create a better designed CAI that actually catches and forces the air into the CAI better. The Injen has the filter out where a scoop of some sort should be collecting the Air, then sending it through the filter after collection. I would think this design would pressurize the incoming air more. Somewhat like the Stock Air Box, but with a better mechanism for air collection and routing. I may have to get creative. The GruppeM CAI may also be a good one to try, but sooo damn expensive.
I have wondered the very same thing and that is why I have not gone with test pipes or headers at this time. If you have the stock intake box, it may be very interesting to throw it back on and see what you get. Someone really needs to create a better designed CAI that actually catches and forces the air into the CAI better. The Injen has the filter out where a scoop of some sort should be collecting the Air, then sending it through the filter after collection. I would think this design would pressurize the incoming air more. Somewhat like the Stock Air Box, but with a better mechanism for air collection and routing. I may have to get creative. The GruppeM CAI may also be a good one to try, but sooo damn expensive.
I’m trying to trace back everything I have done to see if something was installed incorrectly resulting in a low HP gain with all my mods.
One thing I thought of was this little plastic thingy connecting to a vacuum hose that came with my Injen CAI.
Is this valve directional? Does it need to go one 1 way or can you install it either way. I remember installing it and not even thinking twice until it was already installed.
-Richard
One thing I thought of was this little plastic thingy connecting to a vacuum hose that came with my Injen CAI.
Is this valve directional? Does it need to go one 1 way or can you install it either way. I remember installing it and not even thinking twice until it was already installed.
-Richard
Did you Dyno in 4th gear?
because 4th gear max's out at the MPH listed in your dyno sheet...
should be dyno'ing in 5th...
as far as the break in there are 2 schools of thought...
one - follow the break in period of manufacturer...
other - dont follow and drive how you are going to drive it... the first 1500 miles of a car its best NOT to drive at the same speed limit for more then 5 miles at a time... this will break in your engine to operating more efficianetly and smoothly at that MPH.. cars that are broken in like that experience vibration at speeds close to and below / above that MPH and drive smoothly at that speed that the car was broken in with... you dont need to drive the car like you stole it... but drive at random RPM's and MPH.... so the car breaks in evenly rather then breaks in to cruse at 3000rpm at 70MPH...
because 4th gear max's out at the MPH listed in your dyno sheet...
should be dyno'ing in 5th...
as far as the break in there are 2 schools of thought...
one - follow the break in period of manufacturer...
other - dont follow and drive how you are going to drive it... the first 1500 miles of a car its best NOT to drive at the same speed limit for more then 5 miles at a time... this will break in your engine to operating more efficianetly and smoothly at that MPH.. cars that are broken in like that experience vibration at speeds close to and below / above that MPH and drive smoothly at that speed that the car was broken in with... you dont need to drive the car like you stole it... but drive at random RPM's and MPH.... so the car breaks in evenly rather then breaks in to cruse at 3000rpm at 70MPH...


