motors gone
01-23-2010, 04:13 PM
#1
motors gone
ITs a sad day for me and my Z. Few days ago during the crazy rain (in SD), my Z hydrolocked because while i was driving through the harsh rain, i ran across a puddle/small flooded area (where i wasnt aware of or couldnt even see because my wipers were maxed and visual was minimium) after i drove through, my Z stalled. soo hydrolocked was my assumption. i knew not to try n turn it on so, i pushed my car aside. wasnt able to tow it that night but got it towed to my house the next day. I did the crank/removal of the spark plug (2 out of 6 were wet on the tip) and small/moderate amount shot out. after crank for awhile and no water was shooting out, i began to change my oil. A approx. a cup amount of water drained out then it the oil. my oil was its regular black color.
After everything was dried and cleaned and oil was changed, i did the compression reading test.
my highest reading was 60 and the rest was lower....damn rain!
Any input guys..greatly appreciate it!
After everything was dried and cleaned and oil was changed, i did the compression reading test.
my highest reading was 60 and the rest was lower....damn rain!
Any input guys..greatly appreciate it!
01-23-2010, 04:18 PM
#2
Damn vinnie that fawkin sucks!... I was driving around on wednesday and I was trying to dodge every little puddle... I was soo afraid of hydro lock that I just didn't drive all week....Hopefully someone on here can help you out... Did you try taking it to the dealer?
01-23-2010, 04:36 PM
#4
my neighbor works at a shop here in SD, has a 240 with SR20 w/ 300zx, he's planning to help me out 2morrow. He refuse to believe that pressure reading. I did take all the caution dealing with hydro-lock, but i guess it wasnt a dodge for me.
yea i left my clinicals @ memorial around 6pm and it was raining soo hard that my wipers werent helping, and thats when i hit the puddle. i didnt even know there was one their becuase i was the only car on the road and it was dark so you cant tell from wet road to a puddle/small flood.
i havent taking it to the dealer yet. but would it be too late? i towed my car thursday afternoon but it happen wednesday night around 6pm
yea i left my clinicals @ memorial around 6pm and it was raining soo hard that my wipers werent helping, and thats when i hit the puddle. i didnt even know there was one their becuase i was the only car on the road and it was dark so you cant tell from wet road to a puddle/small flood.
i havent taking it to the dealer yet. but would it be too late? i towed my car thursday afternoon but it happen wednesday night around 6pm
01-23-2010, 07:05 PM
#10
Vinnie, I definitely hope you have better luck that I did. My insurance would only replace my engine with a used engine, which turned out to be a piece of crap. Engine, one catalytic converter, one O2 sensor, one BCM module. I finally gave up and traded the car in. I spent more time at the repair shop than I did at home for 3 months and I reached the point where I'd had enough. I had my dealership do it, which was probably my first mistake. Especially since they didn't us a Master Tech to do the work. If you've got good insurance and have comp, you should be covered.
01-23-2010, 09:19 PM
#13
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wtf, how are all these people hydrolocking engines? my cai on my honda was 2"...yes, 2" off the ground and i drove it year round in snow, rain, the whole horrible midwest storms and no problems.
You have to completely submerse the intake tube to hydrolock. Hydrolocking doesn't happen with just water on the filter, it has to be under water.
I also am very skeptical of having all cylinders of a pressure reading of under 60. I'm not saying you didn't do it right, but ya, basically i'm saying you didn't do it right. If you cracked a piston then you would have a low compression (or none) on 1 cylinder. It's highly unlikely that not only did you hydrolock your engine but you have low compression on EVERY cylinder.
Also, if the car sputtered then died, you didn't hydrolock. When enough water gets in the engine to hydrolock it stops dead in it's tracks (hence the hydroLOCK). I've hydrolocked bike engines with oil before. One i remember the most was at 9k rpms. It went from 9k to zero instantly. No stall, no sputter.
An engine that stalls out due to water ingestion would sputter and die because the water would absorb the energy of the combustion and not allow the engine to fire properly. I work on many GNCC bikes that do this going across streams. I drain the engines and they usually run just fine afterwards.
You have to completely submerse the intake tube to hydrolock. Hydrolocking doesn't happen with just water on the filter, it has to be under water.
I also am very skeptical of having all cylinders of a pressure reading of under 60. I'm not saying you didn't do it right, but ya, basically i'm saying you didn't do it right. If you cracked a piston then you would have a low compression (or none) on 1 cylinder. It's highly unlikely that not only did you hydrolock your engine but you have low compression on EVERY cylinder.
Also, if the car sputtered then died, you didn't hydrolock. When enough water gets in the engine to hydrolock it stops dead in it's tracks (hence the hydroLOCK). I've hydrolocked bike engines with oil before. One i remember the most was at 9k rpms. It went from 9k to zero instantly. No stall, no sputter.
An engine that stalls out due to water ingestion would sputter and die because the water would absorb the energy of the combustion and not allow the engine to fire properly. I work on many GNCC bikes that do this going across streams. I drain the engines and they usually run just fine afterwards.
01-23-2010, 11:30 PM
#14
yes it an Injen CAI, and i've driving it through rough rain, specially in the freeway when cars in front are wetting the hell of my CAI but this rain storm in SD was the worst ive driving a CAI...
And my low compression reading gauge might be wrong but you really dont need to have some kind of GED to know how to do a compression test reading. maybe a bad gauge?? but 2morrow morning, i'm going to use a different gauge.
And my low compression reading gauge might be wrong but you really dont need to have some kind of GED to know how to do a compression test reading. maybe a bad gauge?? but 2morrow morning, i'm going to use a different gauge.
01-24-2010, 07:21 AM
#16
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vinnie, chances are if the readings were all consistently low there prob was a factr like a bad gauge like you said. Also if it was a cold engine with no recent oil circulation then the rings won't seal very well either and could be the issue. I like leakdwn tests over comp tests. It might give you better info.
01-24-2010, 10:23 AM
#17
(dirtbikr)i havent attempted to start it because i assumed that doing the comp test would be reasonable to do to be confident enough that nothing is damage before bolting everything up.
(binder) yea, maybe the engine was cold because since last week, SD has been pretty cold and when my Z hydrolocked it was really cold. Would bolting everything up and seeing how it starts make a better comp. test??
(binder) yea, maybe the engine was cold because since last week, SD has been pretty cold and when my Z hydrolocked it was really cold. Would bolting everything up and seeing how it starts make a better comp. test??
01-24-2010, 12:32 PM
#18
well guys..Doctor called it in...my neighbor came by just a few minutes ago and brought his own gauge. I show him which cylinder had a zero reading, he got 25 on a comp test. soo he recommanded me to put everything back together and start the car. got nothing more to try...
RIP "rev-up" motor
RIP "rev-up" motor
01-24-2010, 02:02 PM
#20
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(dirtbikr)i havent attempted to start it because i assumed that doing the comp test would be reasonable to do to be confident enough that nothing is damage before bolting everything up.
(binder) yea, maybe the engine was cold because since last week, SD has been pretty cold and when my Z hydrolocked it was really cold. Would bolting everything up and seeing how it starts make a better comp. test??
(binder) yea, maybe the engine was cold because since last week, SD has been pretty cold and when my Z hydrolocked it was really cold. Would bolting everything up and seeing how it starts make a better comp. test??
ya, a leakdown would actually be safer than comp test if you were worried about something being broken since you do'nt have to crank the motor over to test. You just rotate the crank to get a TDC position for the piston being checked.
i truthfully would have just put the plugs back in it and started it up after changing the oil and cranking the car with the plugs out to clear the cylinders.
and yes, running the engine will give you a better comp test. It should actually be performed with the engine at operating temperature due to the expansion of pistons in the cylinder.