motors gone
01-24-2010, 09:04 PM
#23
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The car was damaged due to rain and floods, the insurance will cover it. My friend hydrolocked his engine awhile back and had the engine replaced by his insurance. They will offer to give you a used engine but demand a new one. My friend did that, he got a new engine.
soo now i need to get rid of my header back single full ti-exhaust.
01-27-2010, 08:00 AM
#32
wtf, how are all these people hydrolocking engines? my cai on my honda was 2"...yes, 2" off the ground and i drove it year round in snow, rain, the whole horrible midwest storms and no problems.
You have to completely submerse the intake tube to hydrolock. Hydrolocking doesn't happen with just water on the filter, it has to be under water.
I also am very skeptical of having all cylinders of a pressure reading of under 60. I'm not saying you didn't do it right, but ya, basically i'm saying you didn't do it right. If you cracked a piston then you would have a low compression (or none) on 1 cylinder. It's highly unlikely that not only did you hydrolock your engine but you have low compression on EVERY cylinder.
Also, if the car sputtered then died, you didn't hydrolock. When enough water gets in the engine to hydrolock it stops dead in it's tracks (hence the hydroLOCK). I've hydrolocked bike engines with oil before. One i remember the most was at 9k rpms. It went from 9k to zero instantly. No stall, no sputter.
An engine that stalls out due to water ingestion would sputter and die because the water would absorb the energy of the combustion and not allow the engine to fire properly. I work on many GNCC bikes that do this going across streams. I drain the engines and they usually run just fine afterwards.
You have to completely submerse the intake tube to hydrolock. Hydrolocking doesn't happen with just water on the filter, it has to be under water.
I also am very skeptical of having all cylinders of a pressure reading of under 60. I'm not saying you didn't do it right, but ya, basically i'm saying you didn't do it right. If you cracked a piston then you would have a low compression (or none) on 1 cylinder. It's highly unlikely that not only did you hydrolock your engine but you have low compression on EVERY cylinder.
Also, if the car sputtered then died, you didn't hydrolock. When enough water gets in the engine to hydrolock it stops dead in it's tracks (hence the hydroLOCK). I've hydrolocked bike engines with oil before. One i remember the most was at 9k rpms. It went from 9k to zero instantly. No stall, no sputter.
An engine that stalls out due to water ingestion would sputter and die because the water would absorb the energy of the combustion and not allow the engine to fire properly. I work on many GNCC bikes that do this going across streams. I drain the engines and they usually run just fine afterwards.
A small puddle will do, I had a CAI on my ECLIPSE. I pulled the plugs and crank the engine over acouple times to let all the water out.
It still ran okay after wards but a year later when I rebuilt the engine this is what i found.
01-27-2010, 08:06 AM
#33
my neighbor and i was all disappointed.
01-27-2010, 09:53 AM
#36
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Man, it doesn't sound like you're trying very hard, give it a chance before you pronounce it totally dead. If it's cranking that's a good sign, keep trying and verify spark, fuel and air. That's all it takes to get it goin, make sure you have all 3.
02-03-2010, 11:22 AM
#37
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I beg to differ, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO COMPLETELY SUBMERGE THE INTAKE.
A small puddle will do, I had a CAI on my ECLIPSE. I pulled the plugs and crank the engine over acouple times to let all the water out.
It still ran okay after wards but a year later when I rebuilt the engine this is what i found.
A small puddle will do, I had a CAI on my ECLIPSE. I pulled the plugs and crank the engine over acouple times to let all the water out.
It still ran okay after wards but a year later when I rebuilt the engine this is what i found.
i second that. I would be doing a few more diagnostics before giving up on it. How do you know the water didn't damage your electrical system or ignition system? That would cause it not to fire therefore not start up.
02-22-2010, 03:44 PM
#38
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I had this happened before, if you got water in the engine your problem might be very serious, since water can't be compressed your engine might be done.
Your inssurance should cover it but like someone already said they change it with a salvaged engine, make sure you have info on the engine before you agree to put it in your car, you are entiteled to an engine with the same or less millage than yours, be aware of where it is coming from, get the name and phone number of the seller from your inssurance, ussually it is BKQ and talk to someone there about the engine before the repair shop orders it.
Your inssurance should cover it but like someone already said they change it with a salvaged engine, make sure you have info on the engine before you agree to put it in your car, you are entiteled to an engine with the same or less millage than yours, be aware of where it is coming from, get the name and phone number of the seller from your inssurance, ussually it is BKQ and talk to someone there about the engine before the repair shop orders it.
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