Keep DE go HR or go SR?
Exactly. Hence my option of the SR20. That little bastard is reliable... Well, I've actually never driven one but, believe it or not, I've owned two Skylines (1 with an RB25 and another with a RB20) they were reliable even with the high kilometers they had.
an sr20 swap like i said before is just stupid..way too much time and money to do a swap like that to have a weak setup overall in the end...the vq is a much better and more advanced motor and will take 400-420whp safely all day long with a good stable tune...Ive daily driven during the summer for 10k miles so far boosted with no issues at 415-420whp (plenty fun daily driver stock block)..an sr20 is just not a swap worth doing when the car already has a stout vq ...there are other swaps that may be worth it but the sr20 is just not one of them...an rb is even pushing it..why not just build the shortblock in a vq if ur gonna spend the money anyway and really boost it and still be reliable
Last edited by tylerxfire; Apr 11, 2010 at 07:33 PM.
an sr20 swap like i said before is just stupid..way too much time and money to do a swap like that to have a weak setup overall in the end...the vq is a much better and more advanced motor and will take 400-420whp safely all day long with a good stable tune...Ive daily driven during the summer for 10k miles so far boosted with no issues at 415-420whp (plenty fun daily driver)..an sr20 is just not a swap worth doing when the car already has a stout vq ...there are other swaps that may be worth it but the sr20 is just not one of them...an rb is even pushing it..why not just build the shortblock in a vq if ur gonna spend the money anyway and really boost it and still be reliable
No doubt it's small but it's capable of more than you're giving it credit for. More over, it would cut a couple 100 pounds from the weight (I don't know the exact numbers).. but I see what's going on here.
I'm not 400+whp hungry...
The bottom line is that I want my weekend warrior/project-mo-bile to have 300WHP and maintain reliability (oxymoron??). I will in fact drift it and autoX it. I don't need uber amounts of HP to achieve that. As a matter of fact, the SR might even be the best solution per the weight ratio.
But you're right though. The VQ is definitely newer and has it's advantages.
Last edited by Bigalow; Apr 11, 2010 at 08:00 PM.
It's a SR20DET - the S15 SR20 (the newest one and the one I would buy) has a stock turbo that can be upgraded to fit your WHP needs:
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/237660...swap-info.html
That SR20 has STOCK what I've had TUNED in my VQ. ;-)
The best part is that it connects to [only] a 6MT so I wouldn't lose that characteristic in my Z.
Last edited by Bigalow; Apr 11, 2010 at 07:51 PM.
Bolt-in kit in terms of engine mounts, etc. I don't think it's a terrible idea, but it will be far more work than I think you perhaps realize. You will likely need to play with engine mounts, changes in cooling, steering rack, etc.
What is your level of fabrication skill? If you can do the work yourself perhaps, but the DE is worth much at all these days.
An S15 is expensive as hell and isn't worth it. You said money isn't a problem why not drop in an RB? You'll have the power you wanted without any upgrades... You've owned Skylines so your familiar with the engines. A SR's fabrication is going to be expensive.. Just as much as a LS# swap.
What do stock DEs and HRs make on Dave's dyno? I'm curious about the baseline number for comparison.
OP - you could always build yourself a 4L stroker from your current engine. That would exceed your power goals and give you the reliability that an F/I system can't.
OP - you could always build yourself a 4L stroker from your current engine. That would exceed your power goals and give you the reliability that an F/I system can't.
no tune is reliable? is that a joke? a tune on a FI car is the most reliable thing u can wish for if u have any chance of ur engine standing a chance on stock internals... make sure if u go Fi u make sure ur tuner has done many tunes before yours and he knows what hes doing.. bc that is honestly the most key thing to ur engine having any way of lasting.. and of course dont beat the **** out of it and supporting cooling mods help.. if u stay around 400whp u should be ok.. regardless if u build ur engine or not ur always taking a chance.. and a solid tune is probably the most important thing
HR 240-245.
I know of more than a couple bolt-on/tune 03-05 cars that didn't get out of there over 230 though.
You're right the DE isn't worth much anymore let alone mine with 5XXXX miles on it.
Originally Posted by Flo-ridaZ33
An S15 is expensive as hell and isn't worth it. You said money isn't a problem why not drop in an RB? You'll have the power you wanted without any upgrades... You've owned Skylines so your familiar with the engines. A SR's fabrication is going to be expensive.. Just as much as a LS# swap.
I'll check with Sage. I remember, Joe, the owner mentioning that he knew where to get a kit for the SR/RB engine.
Originally Posted by scotts300
What do stock DEs and HRs make on Dave's dyno? I'm curious about the baseline number for comparison.
OP - you could always build yourself a 4L stroker from your current engine. That would exceed your power goals and give you the reliability that an F/I system can't.
OP - you could always build yourself a 4L stroker from your current engine. That would exceed your power goals and give you the reliability that an F/I system can't.
Is there a complete list for the 4L build?? Is it a kit?
Originally Posted by terrasmak
What kind of racing are you doing with your needed 300Hp, or is it just bench racing?
Damn Z33. If it didn't have such great handling (vs a 240sx) then I would buy a 240sx and be done with this thread.
An LS motor is ten times easier than a VK to swap into our cars.
IMO, it is a waste of time to swap an HR or an SR motor. Minimal gains with a bunch of headaches.
