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Suggestions for making more power while making the engine bulletproof.

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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 01:25 AM
  #21  
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OK, although it was not NISMO, I did opt for a suspension upgrade on the initial purchase of the car, so for the moment I think it is ok.
My house deal just fell through, so I have so moneys tied up in funds but some others free to spend now I think to start PE will get a call tomorrow, and I'll hunt for and oil cooler, large core radiator, Jun flywheel, and some different wheels to add the "character" of the car. I want to go a little wider on the back without increasing the overall width of the car. Is that possible ? If so what wheel size/offset do you recommend ?
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 01:27 AM
  #22  
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BTW I'm really down about the house deal so how about helping be get this car great, one step at a time. 350-420hp as a starter.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 05:30 AM
  #23  
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I got 10.5" rears with 295/35-18 and 9.5" with 265/35-18. No rolled fenders. Good if you are adding hp like you say you are planning on doing to your Z.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 06:04 AM
  #24  
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Originally posted by zland
I got 10.5" rears with 295/35-18 and 9.5" with 265/35-18. No rolled fenders. Good if you are adding hp like you say you are planning on doing to your Z.
Do you have a photo of what that looks like on the car please ?
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 02:01 PM
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Make sure you look into the wheel you choose's weight first and foremost, the lighter the more expensive though. If you think your car presently understeers too much, you need wider fronts, leave the rears alone. If it oversteers too much, you need wider rears. As you update other parts of your suspension this balance will constantlly change, so be prepared to sell a lot of gently used wheels and tires if you want to get it right.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 02:26 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by dazee
Do you have a photo of what that looks like on the car please ?
Here, I lowered it an inch since this pic so it looks better. Sorry i dont have those pics with me.

Last edited by zland; Nov 6, 2003 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 02:31 PM
  #27  
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opps, found pics of it lowered, here

Last edited by zland; Jun 5, 2006 at 03:32 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 02:33 PM
  #28  
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BTW, no rubbing, no fender problems even after lowered and I tracked it too.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 06:17 PM
  #29  
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Looks good, although I will not be able to lower mine. I have to reverse out of my building as it is to stop the fron grounding out. If I lower it I won't even be able to drive it in. Will look at wheels/tyres of those dimensions as they look so damn good on your car.

What is the weight of the stock 18" wheels ? Does anyone know ?

Just booked my car in with PE to install the turbo kit at the beginning of December, also just purchased the Jun 6.5Kg flywheel. Next comes oil cooler and radiator - although PE is due to release a double core radiator in December so I may go for that one.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 06:31 PM
  #30  
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Might want to stay away from the light flywheel if you plan on big dog power levels - it can hurt more than help (at a certain point - what it is on this car I cannot tell you yet).

ARC radiator is the nices I ahve seen so far....there is another brand out there as well (forget the name, I think FWIN).

The bg thing will be proper engine management...the PE falls woefully short from what I have seen, but thats just me (I like to tweak)..for others it could well be fine. The biigest issue with full standalone is the network the car runs...makes wiring and proper ecu control a nightmare.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 06:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally posted by dazee
What is the weight of the stock 18" wheels ? Does anyone know ?
Do a search here using terms like 'stock wheel weight". I know there was a lot of posts concerning it and they posted actual wt of stock 17, 18 wheels (all of them). Another bit of info I remember is for every 6lbs of wt added on a wheel/tire, you lose 1 hp. Wt at the wheel is much more critical since you have to rotate it thus requiring hp.

If you want light and good quality wheels, I suggest you start with Volks and see if they are something you like.

For tires, when i was researching them, I was impressed how much lighter Toyo proxies were as compared to many others including the Dunlap S03's in which I was considering.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 08:02 PM
  #32  
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I've read through your thread on the lightweight flywheel and clutch assy, and the setup you are testing is way on the extreme levels. An 8lb flywheel ! Mine is closer to 13, lighter but not extreme, also found out that the clutch unit that PE uses is the NISMO one. Again lighter but not as light as you are using.

As for the PE kit I test rode their car and it was making real good power really quickly. True they do not replace the stock ECU, just cut the speed limiter on it. But maybe later I'll get a good tuneable ECU when I build up other parts of the engine and when there is more tuners out there with experience on the engine - in Japan that is as I think we are already establishing the octane levels between Japan and the USA play an important role in the tuning and setup.
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 10:46 PM
  #33  
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dazee

for the wheel width/offsets.. check out this link http://toy4two.home.mindspring.com/offset.html

since you have limited clearance in your parking spot.. this should be pretty valuable in figuring out what offsets will work.. if i'm not mistaken you have 8" wide wheels with +30 offsets to start from.

what is PE doing on the ECU / fuel management.. during the week my Z has to stay a daily driver i.e. low boost.. so I wondering how their kit is set to take into account lower boost levels

thanks
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