Let it idle and disconnect and reconnect each coil pack one by one. If you don't notice a diff when disconnecting one or more of the coil packs, then that is the cylinder you should focus on -- e.g. bad coil pack, fouled spark plug, miswired, ect.

 

Pinch any wires??

 

I'll give that a try... They're gonna be a bi*ch to get to while it's put together though...

 

Alright, so I gave up... had the Z towed to the dealership...

 

Update:

The Z has been in the dealership for a week... Been getting the runaround from them, from day 1.

Anyway, they wanna start with the plenum spacer, thinking the vacuum leak is coming from there... ok, whatever... even though I already told them that's not where the problem is... So they order the OEM manifold bolts... I get told 2 different stories about the bolts being in, and the mechanic not coming to work, and the bolts are still on order, and they don't understand why I'm upset.

Anyway, they called yesterday to say the problem was not the spacer... Gee... where'd I hear that before?? So now they're trying to look at my other aftermarket parts... Let's see how long and drawn-out this takes...

 

They had to have done a load balance test (pulling the wires, however CONSUL can do it while the car in full working order), ask them if they got any results from that.

 

Ok, I'll ask when I go up there tomorrow. Thanks.

 

Update:

Ok, so Nissan fixed the vacuum leak... make that vacuum leaks. apparently I had a leak at the plenum spacer, as well as under the MREV2, at the gasket there. Nissan charged me for reverting everything back to stock, and everything is fine now.

The power loss is due to a bad fuel pump... they said at idle my fuel pump should be at 51 psi. Mine is currently at 4 psi... So, they are ordering the pump, and I should have the Z back this weekend, hopefully.

Grand total for everything ~$2300

 

$2300, did they give you all new parts?

 

yeah, they did. majority of that is labor though... it's steep here.

 

very steep!

 

So in reality, they charged you $2300.00 to diagnose a bad fuel pump...

The reason I say that is, the air leak from the modded parts would have made the idle bad and threw a code at most (considering it wasn't massive). 4 psi at idle is no doubt a bad fuel pump and shouldn't have taken a tech more than an hour or two to figure out. Man... even an air leak in the intake system shouldn't have taken more than two hours labor.

That is crazy, I would ask them for an invoice on the labor and run it by a local shop. If the local shop feels that the labor was crazy raise a fuss.

 

I was just gonna say ^ in the end you paid $2,300 for a fuel pump that could have been an easy DIY for less than $300 new. You should definitely consider taking this up with the managers.

 

I intend to... I was pissed when they gave me the rough total. the paperwork they showed me says they're charging me for 8 hours of labor... For what? Most of the time, they were waiting for parts to come in...

 

I had the same problem with a buddies 350Z, we did a service on his Z (it had about 115,000 miles on it) and looked like it never had a service. We cleaned his Nismo cold air intake(Was really dirty), did an oil and filter change, replaced spark plugs and belts and put everything back together. Then the same thing happened. Took everything apart and put it back together several times just like you did..We took it to a local shop and they couldn't figure out what was wrong, finally took it to Nissan and it was the fuel pump. (took them about a week to figure that out). We replaced the fuel pump and then BAM! She ran like a champ..that was about 8 months ago and hasn't had a problem since. I'm not sure how it happens like that..maybe some signal was sent asking for more fuel to be pushed all of a sudden after the service and the fuel pump couldn't handle it..so it failed.

 

Anyone got the instructions on this? I want to try it. My revup had an issue with a coil. The car felt rough and weak at times. I dyno'd and the numbers were lower than I expected. 250 whp w/ full bolt ons and a TS flash. I had misfiring on the dyno with that. So I changed the plugs. Driver side front coil was unplugged. WTF? No CEL or anything. Just ran like crap at times, so I'm guessing it wasn't clipped in place and was making some contact.

So I fix that. Car was running bad the other night and I checked. The bolt was up about .25" and the coil pack was loose. I pushed down and it clicked. The bolt was tight but not down. I removed it to make sure it wasn't cross threaded and it wasn't. I just had to really tighten it to get it down. Now, the car runs strong but I want to try resetting everything because I never knew there was a reset on the exhaust valve timing for the revup.

 

 

Damn that's crazy... obviously the fuel pump was your main issue. They charged you for their troubleshooting, in otherwords putting it back to stock before they realized it was a fuel issue.

 

It takes a bit of practice to hold the RPMs between 1800 and 2000 for 20 seconds!

 

Tell me about it... lol