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ls2 conversion (questions)

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Old 09-08-2010, 11:01 AM
  #21  
bigcloud
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Originally Posted by stl wrx
I have been toying with this thought for a long time and the only thing that scares me is the wiring and the exhaust system to make it legal in my state. I really think that going turbo... single or twin would be so much easier but we shall see.

STL WRX the exhaust should be easy. Just put the cats and mufflers in place so they have NO question that you're complying to state laws. I'm having a custom mid-pipe made for my swap. I'm going to use long tube headers that come from hinson and the rear of my x02 exhaust. Here is an example...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKXsJFsvCQU


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqou2NKND7A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSs-hmfR5fg
Old 09-08-2010, 03:54 PM
  #22  
TheBlue350z
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would it be possible to keep my agency power exhaust and AAM y-pipe. i think i could just weld the hinson supercar headers to my y-pipe right? and its 3inch pipe all the way back so should that be good?
Old 09-08-2010, 04:45 PM
  #23  
bigcloud
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You could, but I would first see if they even come to the same mating points underneath. Then make the y-pipe flange the same type as the hinson headers.
Old 09-08-2010, 05:25 PM
  #24  
TheBlue350z
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sick thxs, i think i might be one of the first ls conversion w/ a single exhaust

ive also noticed that on the covertte's the alternator is on top and i think it would be in the way when swapping it into the Z. does this mean i can only get ls motor from gto's

Last edited by TheBlue350z; 09-08-2010 at 05:49 PM.
Old 09-08-2010, 07:48 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TheBlue350z
sick thxs, i think i might be one of the first ls conversion w/ a single exhaust

ive also noticed that on the covertte's the alternator is on top and i think it would be in the way when swapping it into the Z. does this mean i can only get ls motor from gto's
I just made my own alternator bracket to mount the stock Z alternator on the lower left hand side of the block like stock. I am also using the stock Z power steering pump. It just so happens that if you flatten out the stock PS pump bracket the holes line up with two of the holes in the LS block. I will be starting a thread for my car in the next two or three weeks as I approach completion of my car. I will be sure to include pictures of tricks like those above which can help reduce cost.

Also note that it is significantly cheaper to put a TH350 or TH400 transmission in than the T56.
Old 09-09-2010, 06:05 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Quamen
I just made my own alternator bracket to mount the stock Z alternator on the lower left hand side of the block like stock. I am also using the stock Z power steering pump. It just so happens that if you flatten out the stock PS pump bracket the holes line up with two of the holes in the LS block. I will be starting a thread for my car in the next two or three weeks as I approach completion of my car. I will be sure to include pictures of tricks like those above which can help reduce cost.

Also note that it is significantly cheaper to put a TH350 or TH400 transmission in than the T56.

Quamen I thought that the TH400 and TH350 transmissions were a lot bigger than the T56? I want a manual so this is the only way I can go. Is the cost delta really significant?
Old 09-09-2010, 06:48 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by bigcloud
Quamen I thought that the TH400 and TH350 transmissions were a lot bigger than the T56? I want a manual so this is the only way I can go. Is the cost delta really significant?
The THXXX's are no bigger than a T56 in any way that really affects installation. The bell housing is the same size up front since it still mates to the same block. I had to pound my tunnel a bit at the top because I have my engine extremely far back, but it was minimal. Other than that the ThXXX's fit perfect in the actual tunnel. All my pans are still above the crossmember also.

The manual transmissions simply require more modifications to the car to put in. I was able to just remove the stock Z master cylinder and clutch pedal and mount the new shifter. Quite simple. My understanding is that the Viper's T56 M12 is the right length for the shifter to line up with the stock Z location. However, you need to get the input shaft replaced with a GM shaft and that version is also harder to find and a bit more expensive. If you go with other versions of the T56 you may have to modify the shifter.

It has been a while since I priced everything out, but in my case it was like $1000 cheaper to buy a TCI aftermarket flexplate, torque converter and built TH400 compared to a T56 with compareable parts.
Old 09-09-2010, 07:29 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Quamen
The THXXX's are no bigger than a T56 in any way that really affects installation. The bell housing is the same size up front since it still mates to the same block. I had to pound my tunnel a bit at the top because I have my engine extremely far back, but it was minimal. Other than that the ThXXX's fit perfect in the actual tunnel. All my pans are still above the crossmember also.

The manual transmissions simply require more modifications to the car to put in. I was able to just remove the stock Z master cylinder and clutch pedal and mount the new shifter. Quite simple. My understanding is that the Viper's T56 M12 is the right length for the shifter to line up with the stock Z location. However, you need to get the input shaft replaced with a GM shaft and that version is also harder to find and a bit more expensive. If you go with other versions of the T56 you may have to modify the shifter.

It has been a while since I priced everything out, but in my case it was like $1000 cheaper to buy a TCI aftermarket flexplate, torque converter and built TH400 compared to a T56 with compareable parts.

Thanks for the information. With the Sikky, and Hinson kits from my research and speaking to both say that their kits will line the shifter up just fine. I hope that they aren't blowing smoke and mirrors once I take out the drivetrain. Either way I'm doing the swap I'm sure I will encounter some problems. I have been trying to take a systems engineering approach to this....lol.
Old 09-09-2010, 09:28 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bigcloud
Thanks for the information. With the Sikky, and Hinson kits from my research and speaking to both say that their kits will line the shifter up just fine. I hope that they aren't blowing smoke and mirrors once I take out the drivetrain. Either way I'm doing the swap I'm sure I will encounter some problems. I have been trying to take a systems engineering approach to this....lol.
I took the same approach with my car... lol. I was originally going to buy one of the kits that was avaliable but all the "complete" kits are not really complete unless you have the shop do the install. There are so many other things they do to get the car up and running that are not included in the kits which is why I think the term "complete" is misleading.
Old 09-09-2010, 10:02 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Quamen
I took the same approach with my car... lol. I was originally going to buy one of the kits that was avaliable but all the "complete" kits are not really complete unless you have the shop do the install. There are so many other things they do to get the car up and running that are not included in the kits which is why I think the term "complete" is misleading.

Yeah I take what these companies say with a grain of salt. Will you be detailing what you encountered in our build? I want to use the kit, but if I'm going to encounter the same issues then I could do everything myself and just take a little longer. I wish I had one of those mock up engines laying around...
Old 09-09-2010, 10:12 AM
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Very good information posted here. ^^^^^
Old 09-09-2010, 10:51 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bigcloud
Yeah I take what these companies say with a grain of salt. Will you be detailing what you encountered in our build? I want to use the kit, but if I'm going to encounter the same issues then I could do everything myself and just take a little longer. I wish I had one of those mock up engines laying around...
I will be detailing as many of the issues, parts, and tips and tricks as I can in my build thread. As a whole, I have not encountered any issues with my build and part selection that would make me buy a kit if I did it all over again.
Old 09-09-2010, 02:16 PM
  #33  
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does anyone know how much heavier the LS engines are? the Z is already kinda nose heavy.
Old 09-09-2010, 02:29 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by z33marv
does anyone know how much heavier the LS engines are? the Z is already kinda nose heavy.
lulz, better question is how much lighter the lsx motors are compared to the VQ.
Old 09-09-2010, 02:33 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Nexx
lulz, better question is how much lighter the lsx motors are compared to the VQ.
orly???

ok my friend google tells me the ls3 weighs something like 450lbs wile the vq weighs onle 330lbs.

Last edited by z33marv; 09-09-2010 at 02:42 PM.
Old 09-09-2010, 05:37 PM
  #36  
TheBlue350z
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will i need different springs if i put a ls motor in my car? I currently have tanabe GF210, which lowers my car abou a 1" in the front.
Old 09-09-2010, 10:06 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Nexx
lulz, better question is how much lighter the lsx motors are compared to the VQ.
Nope. It's about 110LBS heavier and a good 6+" inches more forward. It does sit about 4"inches lower though.
Old 09-09-2010, 10:08 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by z33marv
orly???

ok my friend google tells me the ls3 weighs something like 450lbs wile the vq weighs onle 330lbs.
Your friend google is right.
Old 09-09-2010, 10:18 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Quamen
I took the same approach with my car... lol. I was originally going to buy one of the kits that was avaliable but all the "complete" kits are not really complete unless you have the shop do the install. There are so many other things they do to get the car up and running that are not included in the kits which is why I think the term "complete" is misleading.

100% Correct!
And yet for some reason I keep getting PM's from people asking if there is any "Cheap and Easy" way of doing it.
Answer: It really depends on if you do all the labor yourself or send it to one of two know shop that specialize in this swap. Either way if money is a factor then my advice would be not to attempt it. Getting your hand on a LS motor and trans was the easiest part.
If you need me to up a number to it then I'd say you should expect to spend more the 20+k. If your going the work yourself you can expect to shell out only a little less than that. NO SHOP WILL QUOTE YOU AN ESTAMATED COST UNTIL THE WORK IS DONE and if they do THEY LIE!
I personally handed my Z over to JE Performance with a blow motor and told them to spare no expense. For what it cost I could have just bought another Z. For the money I've invested (BLOWN) on my Z since I purchased it new in 2005 I could have bought a new Viper or 911 with money left over.
If you can see yourself getting rid of the Z in the next few years then you shouldn't even think about doing this swap.
This swap isn't just about swapping in a LS and trans and calling it done, it's rebuilding the car from the ground up to handle it. Brakes, suspension, fuel system, electrical system, and custom fabbed everything else. No more off the shelf replacement parts in some cases. I'm sure if snyper was still here he would back me up on this. Quamen is the second only person I know of on this forum who doing all the work himself but he's the exception because he's used to building race cars. Custom fabbing and welding is nothing much to him but I still bet he'd say the same.

Truth: I never would have considered this swap if I didn't love the Z so much (this is my second one I also used to own a 93 300zxTT) and my VQ hadn't blown up.

The only "less expensive" way to do it is to do all the work and fabrication yourself like Quamen or Snyper. But there is NO cheap way or easy complete kits.

I'm just saying this again because there have been more than a few guys who have started this project only to have fallen way short of completion because they didn't realize just how big a project it would turn out to be, thus destroying perfectly running car for nothing.

Last edited by Havok_RLS2; 09-09-2010 at 11:08 PM.
Old 09-09-2010, 10:40 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Havok_RLS2
Nope. It's about 110LBS heavier and a good 6+" inches more forward. It does sit about 4"inches lower though.
people always talk about how light the LSX engines are and how much of a pig the VQ motors, i just figured the LSX must be lighter but guess not.


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