I am in the electrical engineering field and even if this sales dude shows up and now says "we are not getting as much benefit in the 350Z as we originally thought" or whatever, the web page with the product is complete crap. It is claiming to do things that the battery and or ground kit and or alternator have nothing to do with. Anyone with any electrical background would find this laughable.

I'm not sure what a battery helps when a vehicle is running anyway. A battery is 12VDC and measures 12.2 to 12.8 generally. When you start your car, everything is run at the alternator voltage level, which is 14.4VDC plus or minus maybe 3%.

Jesse, check voltage jitter and see if it is removing any AC components from the VDC line. If it is, then it is just a shunt capacitor. Which is worthless because any accessory that needed decoupling would have it internally. Everything that runs off the batt/alt is spec'd to work from 12-15VDC and everything I can think of has flat performance across that range. Also, there is nothing you could connect to your battery that would increase the alternator voltage or clean up the output.

 

Well, I received my DPS today. The outside of the box and the inside is completely in Japanese. If anyone want to translate it, I can scan it. What did come in english, I scanned and can be found below.

There are 3 wires on the box. It is explained that the blue wire should be connected to the battery ground and the silver wire should be connected to the engine. So far, all I've done is a simple continuity test and the blue and silver wires read 0 ohms. Obviously these wires are just connected straight through.

When I went from red to silver or red to blue it was read as an open on my multimeter.

Anyways, I'll grab the sig gen at work tomorrow and start injecting signals through it to see if it has any effect on AC sinewave circuits.

Jesse

http://members.interfold.com/englishj/DPS.jpg

 

jeez, the person who wrote that does not understand the relationship (and differences) between power, voltage and current.

Electronics 101 says current is drawn, not supplied. Any device that kept current at a constant state on my vehicle, I would not want. Now keeping voltage at a steady state, that would be a good thing. And my volt meter in my 3 gauge cluster certifies that voltage is 14.4 and stable at all times.

Open it up and take pictures, I need a good laugh.

jeez.

 

Sounds like someone is about to get oWneD!

 

I tried, they epoxied that sucker closed, no way to get into it without cutting the top of the box off. So, I'm gonna see about getting the thing Xrayed to see if there's actually anything in it. Probably won't be able to tell anything about the components themselves, but at least I'll know whether I'm wasting my time testing it.

Anyone here read Japanese?

http://www.kuwano-jp.com/kuwano/01dps/fr02_dps.html

 

Have you installed it yet? Put it on and see what happens!

 

Jesse, any updates?

 

I installed it in my car yesterday and have been driving around since then. Haven't noticed any difference while supercharged. The thing is though that, with the SC it will be hard to notice any changes.

There was no change in idle and the car doesn't appear to have any more power, but with over 400HP already 1-2HP isn't gonna register on my butt dyno.

I'm gonna pull the SC belt off tomorrow and drive it around. I grabbed an Oscope today at work so I'll check what the signal looks like at the battery with the DPS connected and disconnected to see if I notice any results.

The thing that has me doubting though is that I did a continuity test and there doesn't appear to be any connection between the + and - lines.

I have a 13.8V adjustable power supply sitting here at my desk also, and I'm gonna run the oscope on it and check for changes at varying voltages with the DPS connected and disconnected.

I promise I'll have a better update by the end of this weekend.

 

There isn't a DC connection but it could be AC coupled.... I mean there could be a big capacitor connected in shunt (positive of cap on positive terminal and negative of cap on negative terminal). Not that it could do ANYTHING that the website states, but it could physically be in there.

 

My final report

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=51032

 

that webpage reads(and translates) about as bad as the advertisement:

The reverse current which occurs at the time of electric circulation of the automobile is decreased, the fact that electric loss is made to decrease is purpose. Reverse current... as for electricity it flows to plus empty minus basically, but when the Electrical equipment is installed, the electric current which flows toward opposite to the flow facing occurs. This is reverse current. The battery alter - supplies electricity to Noetherian, alter - Noetherian has generated electricity, while being supplied electricity. The electricity which generates electricity at this time tries probably to keep returning to the battery. The electricity which this keeps returning is reverse current, electric current from the battery it interferes, generates the loss of electric current. Making this electric interference decrease, you pull out original power, the electric energy which presently is there is no loss if possible and uses, making power efficiency 100% bring close, the device where in the point where the ignition frequency which occurs from the engine and the frequency of vibration of the normal mode which the product has agree, the largest effect is shown, keeps circulating electricity efficiently is the direct power system.

but again, good looking out, another ripoff exposed

 

Hmmm, I wonder where igor@af went after you made your final report????